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Archive through May 10, 2010

IH Cub Cadet Forum

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Hi Guys- Thought I would share some pics of my 100 in Alaska at our PD with you. It stables with my JD 140.

I belong to the Antique Power Club of Alaska which had it's spring PD this last Saturday. It was a beautiful day. No wind, around 60 degrees, and no bugs.

I thought I would share the incredible view we had with you. http://tiny.cc/dl1ik
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Dennis Frisk

I will clear this up in the AM. i WILL POST A PICTURE and all will be clear. I have thought of a mod for my diesel! but have that running right . Can`t Waite to blow snow next winter with the 450. Should be a blast for sure..

lucas donald jones

A 147 dip stick is on top but is awful short cause it fill only.got them balance gears in the way.I have short dip stick tractors with new base pan gaskets. NO balance gears here. If you can hear them work and set them up with the book as a guide,. I got a Cub her with the points set at 17. Works for that tractor,for me
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Kristen, You have a charging system problem. The main components of the charging system are the s/g, wiring and the regulator. See the FAQ section for basic help. If you still need help come back and ask again. Short term,use a battery charger and fully charge the battery,if the battery is good it will run quite a while if you don't use the lights and don't start it but once.
 
Chris Anton
Now I just like that picture. its great.I have a 100 and I don`t mind getting it dirty like them green O##%^&. LoL wish I could have shared it also. Its always easy if you have the right tool for the job.
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Chris,
NICE pic & tractor!!! We'll forgive you for leaving that green thing in the background.
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Are the newer cub front wheels using the 1 inch axle shaft, I have to find 2 rims if that is the case. I know the original 128 rims won't fit with the new front axle and spindals that came off of a 1811.
 
Kristen P:
Glad to see another Michigander on the forum...Welcome!!

If the charging system on the 129 (best Cub ever made BTW)was working last year, I would do the following before jumping right into voltage regulators.
..Check the battery with a load tester - if you don't have one, almost all auto parts will and they'll check it for you..
..Go through all the grounds - IHC used the body/frame as a ground path and it's not unusual(especially if the tractor has set for a while) for the connection points (like where the negative ground cable is bolted to the fender pan) to have corrosion occur, preventing good electrical continuity. Note that there are ground points at the battery, at the voltage regulator and up front at the engine that should all be checked..
...A quick check on the charging system is to measure the battery voltage with the engine off (probably around 11.9 volts on a charged battery) and then start the engine and measure it - it should be ABOVE the voltage measured with the engine off - if the battery is charged it'll be around 13.9-14.2 volts..
 
Still sorting out the deck lift issue but getting close. I am going to take it apart this weekend and check the rollpin thanks to you!

A list of the other problems:

1. The Hydro is slow to respond only when the tractor is hot. Works great when cold both forward and reverse with slight whine going up hill.

History - This tractor sat for over 15 years without being run. Hydro oil was full and clean with no leaks before I ever attempted to run the tractor. I did foolishly pull the tractor a short distance but I assume that did not damage it as I have mowed for 3 weeks without any problems. I have new fluid and filter on the way. Is this just a simple fluid change or hydro problem? Plastic fan is good.

2. 1650 Vibration - I have changed the mounts with OE cadet parts and the vibration seems worse to me than before with the engine basically loose from side to side. It was actually very nice with the old worn mounts minus driving over bumps and hearing the engine hit the frame. I backed off the new mounts a few turns as instructed on the forum but basically no change. The driveshaft couplers look good. The new mounts did nothing but make the problem worse.

3. Front wheel bearings - I replaced both with cadet parts but I still have play in the wheel in and out. ID/OD are okay/tight and spindles look good, just play on the wheel in and out with the nut tight.


4. I did not change the points after the tractor sat for 15 years, just cleaned the carb and it fired right up. Starts great any temperature, should I even spend the time to replace them?

5. How do I check WOT RPM? My automotive timing light will not do this because this is a single cylinder. I believe I am over spinning the engine but not sure. The faster you spin it, the more the vibrations go away.

I know this tractor pretty well from what it "used to drive like" but that was when I was 20 years old mowing the lawn.

I hate thinking I am spinning this thing at 4000 RPM for hours on end.


Many thanks to each of you!
 
Question.... Could I have the axle shafts on the new axles turned down from 1" to 3/4" and use old wheels?
 
Nic, No they wont. I tried that with my 100 and there is a "bottom lip"on the 123 headlighjt panel that doesnt clear the bottom of the rectangle hole were the headlight panel is placed into on the 100 tractor. I made mine work but it doesnt fit in it 100%.

Chris, Nice picture and nice looking cub and deere!

Charlie, Woth a little imagination and paint you could make it look like a 5288 or a similar model. put the stack through or right next to the hood and paniter up. Itd look neat..then get two brinly discs,putt'em together and put the disc on the tractor.
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<font size="-2">idk where these random thoughts are coming from...
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Kentucky, I was all set to mention the ACR to you, then I read you got it to start.
 
Eric T.-

Why try something difficult like that when you can just buy a set of wheels for 1" spindles, or just buy 3/4" spindles?
 
Can anyone please confirm that a Cub Cadet 44A deck spindle part number IH-ST745 is now designated part number 759-3479? Dealer isn't sure or won't confirm.
 
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Windy, raining, LOW 40s...I love Wisconsin spring weather. suppose to be in the mid 60s by saturday
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Steering box question. I destroyed my adjustment plug while trying to remove it, so I ordered a replacement (from our esteemed sponsor - CC). It's a very nicely machined aluminum part, which has a bearing race machined into it for the lower steering gear bearing. However, I'm a bit skeptical that an aluminum bearing race will last long with steel ball bearings, and I'm wondering whether I should take it to a machine shop and have it cut to fit a steel bearing cup. Any experience, wisdom, or advice?
 
Kristen, WELCOME!
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Chris A., wow! What a beautiful setting, especially for a Plow Day.
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