Archive through May 09, 2011

[kmcconaughey]

Patrick, WELCOME!

The 1250 is the model number... If you post the complete S/N including all the numbers before and after the U we can tell you for certain if it is a 1250. Belt for use on a 1250 with a 44" mower deck would be part# IH-59971-C1 and should be 3/8" x 78".

 

[whecht]

Do any of you have any Pictures of how to install the cam stop for the lift handle on a 108?

 

[kmcconaughey]

Willis, all I have is the photo from the Operator's Manual.

 

[kmcconaughey]

Oops, I found another photo.

 

[sbauer]

Does anyone know what the original paint color was on the IH cart #2. I want to get the correct white on it. Thanks

 

[bmwitmer]

while the 86 manual is up here, can you help me out? I have an 86, and would like to know how to attach the belt to the deck from the engine. I also need the piece that goes from the deck engage to the piece in front of the engine, any ideas what i can fabricate this out of since i need it now to cut grass?

 

[kmcconaughey]

Brandon, here's a diagram that shows the routing of the drive belt for the mower deck. Please note that the tractor and mower deck are not shown, however, the PTO pulley on the tractor and the driven pulley on the mower deck are shown.

 

[kmcconaughey]

Brandon, is this the part (actually comprised of 4 parts if you count the nut, 5 if you count the cotter pin) you are in need of? The 3 basic parts are a 1/4" diameter rod with a 90° bend at one end and left hand threads on the other end, a turnbuckle with standard threads on one end and left hand threads on the other end, another 1/4" diameter rod with threads on one end and a Z bend on the other end. The nut I mentioned is for locking the assembly to a fixed length once it is adjusted. A post in the WANTED section of the classifieds should get you the part(s).

 

[bmwitmer]

yes, this is it! and i think i may be missing a piece in order for the belt to a ttach to the mower deck, im going to check soon.

 

[bmwitmer]

i am missing the clutch pulley, sadly. oh if you can take an actual picture of what the whole setup is supposed to really be like that'd be wonderful.

 

[rklein]

You can test your engine ignition condenser as follows;


1
Remove the condenser from the engine. Place the condenser on an insulated wooden surface such as a workbench. A metal surface may cause the test to fail. You will note that there is a small metal connector located at the top of the condenser. This connector is the "hot" or power connection. The metal case of the condenser is the ground point.

2
Switch the volt ohmmeter to the ohms position. Place the red lead into the "ohm" connector on the meter. Insert the black lead into the "com" or common connector on the meter.

3
Touch the red lead to the hot connector on the condenser. Place the black lead to the metal case or ground point on the condenser. The meter's deflection needle should have jumped slightly to the right. The needle may also slowly rise in the right hand direction. Hold the leads in place for 15 seconds to 20 seconds. This action places charge to the condenser.

4
Remove the leads and reverse the placement to the condenser. In other words, move the red lead from the hot connector to the metal case, and move the black lead from the metal case to the hot connector. At the moment where both leads are touching the correct points, the meter should jump towards the right. This action discharges the condenser.

5
Movement from the meter's needle indicates the condenser is good. If no movement was indicated on the meter in either circumstance in Step 3 or Step 4, the condenser is bad and must be replaced. Retest the condenser several times for a consistent reading.

Reprint from: How to Test a Condenser in a Small Engine | eHow.com http://www.ehow.com/how_5526059_test-condenser-small-engine.html#ixzz1Lu3VNW6I

 

[aschumacher]

Robert K, nice write up. <font size="-2">Do you know how many years it's been since I've seen a meter with a needle?? My old Triplett was a nice meter till something got it wet.)</font>

 

[ccarney]

Kraig -

I think it was April of '63 for the NG article. Last spring sales push for the originals.

 

[rklein]

I still use my Simpson in the 6" x 6" x 3" Bakelite case (with the D cell battery inside!)

Here's a great site for troubleshooting outboard motor magneto ignitions (very similar to Kohler) with a digital VOM meter

It's a PDF file so print out a copy for your shop.


http://assets.fluke.com/appnotes/electricalpower/B0271b_u.pdf

 

[mschutz]

my 125 only wants to start sometimes. If the battery has a good charge most of the time it will start, but after it gets warmed up and then shut off it will not restart. How can you tell if you have a bad solanoid or coil. I just not sure where to start. Also charge indicater just flutters so I think it needs a voltage regulator

 

[rodsmith]

MELODY,
When it won't start, is the S/G turning the engine over.If it is first check all your wire connections,install new plug,and check and see if there is fire at plug.If it just clicks when trying to start,you have bad ground or bad connection between +side of battery and starter solenoid.
ROD

 

[mschutz]

S/G is turning it over no problem. I changed the SP and SP wire and it fired right up. Thought I had it figured out, til I tryed to start the next day. It wouldn't fire but it turns over.

 

[digger]

Melody S.
Tilt your head the other way and then turn the key!

 

[dross]

Melody when it doesnt fire pull the plug and see if it's wet. If it is your problems eletrical, if not wet, fuel problem. It's not writen in stone but it can give you a direction.

 

[rklein]

Before you stas until you find out what's wrong (my dad always called that Easter Egging) you should identiy the symptoms and probable causes. I found this link helpful.

http://www.m-and-d.com/helpfaq.html