Tom W.
Yes they are still available.
Yes they are still available.
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Archive through May 08, 2007
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CHRIS B. - What Henri says is true. The transmission clutches in these old gear drives are simple and durable as all heck....I've slipped Mine for close to an hour snow-blowing, pulling bushes, plowed for all the 10 HP K241 is worth, pulled My lawn vac for 10-12 hours straight where the total weight of the tractor & vac loaded with clippings & leaves is around 2000#. And I've only had the clutch slip ONCE while plowing at a Wisconsin IH Collector's Club plow day about 5 yrs ago while plowing tough sod about 7-8" deep.
If You remove the clutch shield on the top of the frame between the engine & steering console right below the battery You'll see the friction disc driven by three steel pins about 5/16" to 3/8" in diameter. The two steel plates, one in front that's stationary and the one behind that slides on the driveshaft clamps onto the friction disc to drive the tractor. Anything that causes the friction plate to drag on one of those steel plates will cause a need for the double-clutching Your doing. A small adjustment of the clutch adjustment on the throw-out lever may fix the problem. Tighten the 9/16" adjusting nut on the clutch operating rod about half to one full turn and try it again from below the frame of the tractor. You may have to remove the bottom frame cover if Your tractor has one. This increases the clearance between the steel & friction plates with the clutch disengaged.
On My old 72 (basically identicle to Your 73) I made a transmission input shaft brake about 24-25 yrs ago to stop gear clashing when shifting into gear from neutral. With some changes I've made to the clutch in the last month I had to remove it. I know I'll regret it! If Your fingers are small enough You can reach thru the creeper drive breather hole on the top of Your frame and stop the driveshaft from turning to engage a gear from neutral. I have to do this on the old 70 I've been running lately. You don't want to grind gears....it rounds the engaging sides of the gear teeth and when worn enough it leads to the transmission jumping out of gear under hard pulls. I've been around old IHC straight cut transmission gears in everything from Cub Cadets to FARMALL M's for over 40 yrs... Don't ask Me how I know this!
If You remove the clutch shield on the top of the frame between the engine & steering console right below the battery You'll see the friction disc driven by three steel pins about 5/16" to 3/8" in diameter. The two steel plates, one in front that's stationary and the one behind that slides on the driveshaft clamps onto the friction disc to drive the tractor. Anything that causes the friction plate to drag on one of those steel plates will cause a need for the double-clutching Your doing. A small adjustment of the clutch adjustment on the throw-out lever may fix the problem. Tighten the 9/16" adjusting nut on the clutch operating rod about half to one full turn and try it again from below the frame of the tractor. You may have to remove the bottom frame cover if Your tractor has one. This increases the clearance between the steel & friction plates with the clutch disengaged.
On My old 72 (basically identicle to Your 73) I made a transmission input shaft brake about 24-25 yrs ago to stop gear clashing when shifting into gear from neutral. With some changes I've made to the clutch in the last month I had to remove it. I know I'll regret it! If Your fingers are small enough You can reach thru the creeper drive breather hole on the top of Your frame and stop the driveshaft from turning to engage a gear from neutral. I have to do this on the old 70 I've been running lately. You don't want to grind gears....it rounds the engaging sides of the gear teeth and when worn enough it leads to the transmission jumping out of gear under hard pulls. I've been around old IHC straight cut transmission gears in everything from Cub Cadets to FARMALL M's for over 40 yrs... Don't ask Me how I know this!
Dennis F: One thing you missed is that there are lots of folks with no experience with tractors that think that the transmissions are syncromesh and try to shift them on the fly and constantly grinding the gears. For those folks, please tattoo the following on the back side of your eyelids: Cub Cadet Transmissions <u>should never </u>be shifted when the tractor is in motion!! Stop. Place transmission in the gear you want to use. If you need to change gears, Stop again and place transmission in the desired gear.
Myron B
Myron B
Well crap!
And I was just abut to take the 100 around the block and speed shift that sucker.
And I was just abut to take the 100 around the block and speed shift that sucker.
I know not to be driving it while shifting!
The gears aren't grinding, Sometimes, they just won't go into gear. Unless, I need to try to bend the shift lever? By double clutching, it spins the gear so the teeth will be better aligned. So perhaps, the gearbox has been "ground" before so the ends of the gears are not as bevelled?
The gears aren't grinding, Sometimes, they just won't go into gear. Unless, I need to try to bend the shift lever? By double clutching, it spins the gear so the teeth will be better aligned. So perhaps, the gearbox has been "ground" before so the ends of the gears are not as bevelled?
Did Cozy Cab make a cab that was color keyed to the red x82 series?
I have one on its way that is red and was wondering if it is color keyed to match my 782.
I just wish my 782 had a "D" after the "2" so it was a REAL tractor. It has been repowered with a M18 but that still does not blow black smoke and tractors are supposed to blow black smoke! I keep the 782D at the top of my wish list.
Also, has anyone ever repowered a 982 with the 782D engine?
I have one on its way that is red and was wondering if it is color keyed to match my 782.
I just wish my 782 had a "D" after the "2" so it was a REAL tractor. It has been repowered with a M18 but that still does not blow black smoke and tractors are supposed to blow black smoke! I keep the 782D at the top of my wish list.
Also, has anyone ever repowered a 982 with the 782D engine?
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Chris-
The fix that I've found for the gears not going into gear is to just keep moderate pressure on the shift lever while very slooooowly letting out the clutch. As the gears begin to rotate, it will go into gear and off you'll go. No grinding, no double clutching.
It's important to keep the pressure on the shift lever "moderate" or you'll break the roll-pin in there. Been there, done that!
My $.02..........
The fix that I've found for the gears not going into gear is to just keep moderate pressure on the shift lever while very slooooowly letting out the clutch. As the gears begin to rotate, it will go into gear and off you'll go. No grinding, no double clutching.
It's important to keep the pressure on the shift lever "moderate" or you'll break the roll-pin in there. Been there, done that!
My $.02..........
kide
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- Gerry Ide
Never get that crunching sound on my 129 (where's Hydro Harry when ya' need a snarky remark about Hydros vs Gear Grinders??)
BTW - Cushman Eagle's setup used a "pulley brake" to stop the transmission input shaft from rotating when the clutch was depressed all the way - probably similar to what Dennis had on his 72..
BTW - Cushman Eagle's setup used a "pulley brake" to stop the transmission input shaft from rotating when the clutch was depressed all the way - probably similar to what Dennis had on his 72..
snorris
Active member
I have a real noob question, so please don't laugh...
How do I adjust the transmission belt tension on my original cadet ? It started slipping when I was driving it around in 3rd gear, and even smoked a bit. I don't see how to tighten it, other than maybe moving the engine a little?
Art, I emailed you with some questions about your Plow Special, but you never replied. Maybe you didn't get it ? is Hotmail.com perhaps on your block list? hehe
How do I adjust the transmission belt tension on my original cadet ? It started slipping when I was driving it around in 3rd gear, and even smoked a bit. I don't see how to tighten it, other than maybe moving the engine a little?
Art, I emailed you with some questions about your Plow Special, but you never replied. Maybe you didn't get it ? is Hotmail.com perhaps on your block list? hehe
I speed shift the 1200 sometimes, you gotta be good. Still haven't finished putting the 3-point on, adjust brakes, blah, blah, blah. I've been too busy. Maybe this weekend. Rode with my nephew the other day, had him sit on my lap and he steered, clutched, throttled, and shifted by himself.
Cub Cadet 1200: $525
Gas: $3.15/gal.
The look on my 7 yr old nephew's face: PRICELESS!!
Cub Cadet 1200: $525
Gas: $3.15/gal.
The look on my 7 yr old nephew's face: PRICELESS!!
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Stevenson-
Here's the proceedure...
You want to loosen "A" in this diagram...
I did not receive your emails. Ping me again at the address in my profile so I know if there's an issue with hotmail. I check it frequently...
Here's the proceedure...
You want to loosen "A" in this diagram...
I did not receive your emails. Ping me again at the address in my profile so I know if there's an issue with hotmail. I check it frequently...
KENDALL - My brake on the 72 was a little lever sticking up thru the creeper shifter slot and a little arm attached to the piece of tubing the lever was welded to...and a rubber pad about 1" x 1" x 1/2" bolted to the arm that rubbed on the driveshaft when I pulled the lever back. VERY similar to what IHC used back in about 1939 on the industrial versions of iNTERNATIONAL'S, the I-4, I-6, & I-9. And the diesel versions of the last two.
MYRON - I'm a little "Out of Practice" on My Super H and the M but I can shift all the way from 1st to 5th and back down on those old horses without "Clicking a tooth" on the roll in those non-synchronized transmissions. With the clutch & brake both on the same pedal it makes it MUCH harder on a Cub Cadet....plus the slow ground speed doesn't help either. It's all in what You get used to.
CHRIS - What Your having happen is perfectly normal. Look back a couple pages and the pic's of transission gears and You've got a gear tooth hitting the side of another tooth, not the space between two teeth. Art's remedy is what We all do. Even my manual transmissions in My new Volvo and My old Ford truck do the same thing if the engine isn't running.
MYRON - I'm a little "Out of Practice" on My Super H and the M but I can shift all the way from 1st to 5th and back down on those old horses without "Clicking a tooth" on the roll in those non-synchronized transmissions. With the clutch & brake both on the same pedal it makes it MUCH harder on a Cub Cadet....plus the slow ground speed doesn't help either. It's all in what You get used to.
CHRIS - What Your having happen is perfectly normal. Look back a couple pages and the pic's of transission gears and You've got a gear tooth hitting the side of another tooth, not the space between two teeth. Art's remedy is what We all do. Even my manual transmissions in My new Volvo and My old Ford truck do the same thing if the engine isn't running.
snorris
Active member
Thanks for the pics and info Art! I see what to do now. 
On mine, the clutch collar and front driveshaft bearing are worn out. I had to squirt oil on them to stop them from making a lot of noise. I can't think of his name, but the fella that rebuilds cadet driveshafts might be a good idea, maybe he has a stainless shaft for the original cadet, like he shows for the newer models.
I may have found somebody that will swap me a kohler 16hp single. Do you think that will fit properly in the cadet since the 10hp does? You think it may damage the mounting area or anything because its so much more powerful than the original 7hp ?
Another question to anybody that knows, since I hate rust with a passion, I'm thinking of using all stainless steel bolts on my cadet as I fix it up. I seem to remember (maybe wrongly) that stainless bolts will gall in some metals and get badly stuck. Anybody know anything about that ?
On mine, the clutch collar and front driveshaft bearing are worn out. I had to squirt oil on them to stop them from making a lot of noise. I can't think of his name, but the fella that rebuilds cadet driveshafts might be a good idea, maybe he has a stainless shaft for the original cadet, like he shows for the newer models.
I may have found somebody that will swap me a kohler 16hp single. Do you think that will fit properly in the cadet since the 10hp does? You think it may damage the mounting area or anything because its so much more powerful than the original 7hp ?
Another question to anybody that knows, since I hate rust with a passion, I'm thinking of using all stainless steel bolts on my cadet as I fix it up. I seem to remember (maybe wrongly) that stainless bolts will gall in some metals and get badly stuck. Anybody know anything about that ?
Hello, new here and to cubs. Picked up a 1965 100 at a sale earlier this spring and finally getting around to thinking about working on it. Noticed however, I'm missing my starter. The brackets are there, but no starter. Please pardon my ignorance, but I from what I've been reading and catching up on in old posts, I evidently need a CCW rotation starter for this, and I would like to know, what exactly doest that mean? Does it mean that as I look the pulley end of the starter dead on, that the rotation is CCW, as in the top edge spins away from the tractor? --jason
Jason S: It's not just a starter, it's also a generator commonly referred to as the Starter/Generator (S/G). Yes it rotates Counter Clock Wise (CCW) just like the Kohler engine when viewed from the front. Post an ad in the want ads for a S/G...
Myron B
Myron B
snorris
Active member
Speaking of S/G units, the one on my 10hp has cast iron end pieces with a little oil tube thats covered with a door. My friends cadet has aluminum ends and no oiling tube/door.
Anybody know what versions of these S/G units came out and if any are better built or higher rated than the others?
Anybody know what versions of these S/G units came out and if any are better built or higher rated than the others?
STEVENSON - I'm not really that knowledgable about the early 1961-1963 Cub Cadet's even though I'm one of the very few on this forum that ever drove a brand shiny new one. Art Aytay put a 10 HP in His Plow Special. Maybe He'll post some advise about fitting a 16 HP. I know Tom Hoffman put a 20-something HP Briggs twin in that vintage of CC several years ago.
I wouldn't replace the hardware in Your Cub Cadet with stainless steel. Right now Stainless prices are the highest they've ever been in history due to the nickel prices....over $24/pound!
And cheap hardware store SS hardware is not as strong as the Grade 5 hardware IHC MADE themselves to assemble their equipment. I'd wire brush the heads of the fasteners & the threads and when Your done fixing the tractor up paint the whole thing. That's the way things were done down in Louisville, KY back when they were built.
As far as SS threaded fasteners galling, that's exactly right. Bare stainless on stainless without some sort of anti-sieze, or lubricant will gall and basically weld the threads together. You may be able to torque them a time or two without galling but they will gall. I used to buy parts for commercial ice cream making equip. which was 100% 316 stainless and EVERY threaded fastener had a special Teflon based anti-sieze used on it. The metric hardware to meet the ASME pressure vessel requirements of this machine were imported from Germany. They had I think it was a DIN rating of A2-70 if I remember correctly....something between a Grd 5 & 8. You won't find anything like that in ANY hardware store.
I wouldn't replace the hardware in Your Cub Cadet with stainless steel. Right now Stainless prices are the highest they've ever been in history due to the nickel prices....over $24/pound!
As far as SS threaded fasteners galling, that's exactly right. Bare stainless on stainless without some sort of anti-sieze, or lubricant will gall and basically weld the threads together. You may be able to torque them a time or two without galling but they will gall. I used to buy parts for commercial ice cream making equip. which was 100% 316 stainless and EVERY threaded fastener had a special Teflon based anti-sieze used on it. The metric hardware to meet the ASME pressure vessel requirements of this machine were imported from Germany. They had I think it was a DIN rating of A2-70 if I remember correctly....something between a Grd 5 & 8. You won't find anything like that in ANY hardware store.
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