Ryan W.
You don't need spacers to put wider tires on. I think he was just going for the look and a wider stance.
You don't need spacers to put wider tires on. I think he was just going for the look and a wider stance.
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Archive through May 08, 2007
- Thread starter digger
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Help Support IH Cub Cadet Forum:
I picked up a pretty decent 129 last night. Got a nice mower deck with new blades, a snow blade, a set of cast iron wheel weights and tire chains in the deal. (Pics to follow next week) Doesn't run and is pretty greasy but unless there's a hole in the block or some other disaster, I got me a pretty neat cousin for my 782. No rust to speak of, ordinary wear & tear on the deck and blade. Got some spares and the owner's manual - a one-owner tractor. In a week or two I'll have some time to blow the crud off it and see what I got but so far, I'm pretty excited. It'll be my 9 year old son's tractor. That brings me to my question: Does anyone know what parts have to be changed out to install a seat-activated kill switch? I've never looked at the wiring but I figured they just ground out the ignition or something.
stanner
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- Scott Tanner... Can't even see the Cub in this mess..
Craig,
if you go to you local cub dealer or one of the sponsors above, purchase a new seat off of a 2000 series, it has the provisions for a switch... seat is around $100 bucks, and i don't recall what the switch goes for....HTH
if you go to you local cub dealer or one of the sponsors above, purchase a new seat off of a 2000 series, it has the provisions for a switch... seat is around $100 bucks, and i don't recall what the switch goes for....HTH
KARL S. - Pressure washing Cub Cadets.... I wouldn't do it any more than You have to. And unfortunately the components that like pressure washing the least are the things You need to wash the most. Be aware that if you pressure wash the engine and transmission no matter how careful You are You will still get water into the crankcase, ignition points, and down along all the bolts and screws holding Your tractor together and increase the chances of them rusting together. The hydro is pretty well sealed and the breather vent for the rearend isolated but trying to clean under the seat or fenders may get soap & water into the hydro as well. Plan on at least changing engine oil afterwards and maybe the hydro oil & filter as well. And it probably won't start afterwards due to wet points unless You wash it while running. (BT-DT)
I find scraping the worst of the dirt/grease off with a putty knife or screwdriver then spraying with GUNK Engine Cleaner then letting it sit for a few minutes then washing/rinsing with a garden hose a better plan UNLESS You plan on disassembling components You wash after You pressure wash.
About the most cleaning My tractors get is blowing off with compressed air after every mowing. I may wipe them down with Brake-Klean and a rag while I'm working on them.
I find scraping the worst of the dirt/grease off with a putty knife or screwdriver then spraying with GUNK Engine Cleaner then letting it sit for a few minutes then washing/rinsing with a garden hose a better plan UNLESS You plan on disassembling components You wash after You pressure wash.
About the most cleaning My tractors get is blowing off with compressed air after every mowing. I may wipe them down with Brake-Klean and a rag while I'm working on them.
bhenningsen
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- Bryon Henningsen
The reason for the homemade wheel extensions on the "Super Cadet Original" was to fit in the furrow with the wide tires. The distance from centerline of tractor to inside of tire is 12".(since I pull a 12" plow, this allows for full width of cut) I also made a smaller set to use on my 1450-H3 for the same reason with 6-12 tires. They are interchangable depending on which tires I use on either tractor. Watch for "Super Cadet Original II" at Fall Plow Days.
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Bryon-
Any hints as to the mods that SCO II will have?
Any hints as to the mods that SCO II will have?
Hey everyone I got the PTO all squared away on the 71!!! Thanks a bunch for all the help you guys are great!!!
Now, a little work on the 106 before the creeper drive comes from Chris Westfall. I may get in trouble for this but Chris has been running his cub parts site reliably & responsibly for maybe a little over a month now. Great guy to work with!
I have a .pdf file for my 106 but it’s damaged & can not print it. Might anyone out there have either a paper version for sale OR an electric version you may send me at: [email protected]? I need the ins & outs with servicing the steering & rear end thanks so much!
Now, a little work on the 106 before the creeper drive comes from Chris Westfall. I may get in trouble for this but Chris has been running his cub parts site reliably & responsibly for maybe a little over a month now. Great guy to work with!
I have a .pdf file for my 106 but it’s damaged & can not print it. Might anyone out there have either a paper version for sale OR an electric version you may send me at: [email protected]? I need the ins & outs with servicing the steering & rear end thanks so much!
bhenningsen
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- Bryon Henningsen
Same powerplant, although I would like to build one with a newer Kohler CH V-Twin engine
. I plan on some refinements/options for the frame, and motor...
Craig:
Many of the newer tin can mowers have seat safety switches. All you need is a spring loaded Normally Open (N.O.) that is in the circuit to the coil from the iginition switch. It completes the circuit when the seat is occupied and when it is not, it opens the circuit to the coil and kills the engine. You will need to fabricate some type of spring system to raise the seat when it is not occupied
Many of the newer tin can mowers have seat safety switches. All you need is a spring loaded Normally Open (N.O.) that is in the circuit to the coil from the iginition switch. It completes the circuit when the seat is occupied and when it is not, it opens the circuit to the coil and kills the engine. You will need to fabricate some type of spring system to raise the seat when it is not occupied
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