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Archive through May 08, 2007
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Stevenson- When you use the anti-seize use it in moderation. I have already used so much on steel parts in the fertilizer bussiness that the parts wouldn't actually stay together and once it works in, and it will, things will NOT stay together the way you wnat them to.
Stevenson-
As stated, beware of hardware store stainless fasteners. Having said that, there is appropriate SST hardware that can be used as long as it carries a minimum ASTM A593 rating, Fastenal will carry ASTM F593C, good stuff.
For the fasteners, at work we use ECK (Electrolysis Corrosion Kontrol). It will prevent galling. It's safe for painted surfaces as well.
As stated, beware of hardware store stainless fasteners. Having said that, there is appropriate SST hardware that can be used as long as it carries a minimum ASTM A593 rating, Fastenal will carry ASTM F593C, good stuff.
For the fasteners, at work we use ECK (Electrolysis Corrosion Kontrol). It will prevent galling. It's safe for painted surfaces as well.
Howdy folks got a quick question, will it hurt anything to take a pressure washer to the 147 i have? such as getting water in something. I would like to get this cleaned up but so far everything i have ever known does not apply to cubs.
thanks in advance
thanks in advance
Karl I'm not going to say no but I had a buddy that insisted on washing his truck with a pressure washer until his moulding/ vent visors started to fall off. It will probably take off stickers and loose paint along with the dirt.
I mowed the lawn with 147 #4 today and it works excellent! Last week I changed the oil before I mowed the lawn. It was nasty. It was thick and smelled like carbon and gas. I had to change the oil in it again before mowing the lawn today. When I checked the oil today is was just as back as before with only 45 minutes run time. Hopefully the engine is clean now. I changed the Hytran and filter as well today. Everything looked good, and the Hytran was clean with no goo.
Karl,
Go ahead and wash it. Don't directly spray where there are seals, Like the axle shafts. Keep the pressure washer away from the back top of the hydro, that's where the breather is, unless you plan on changing the Hytran anyways.
Karl,
Go ahead and wash it. Don't directly spray where there are seals, Like the axle shafts. Keep the pressure washer away from the back top of the hydro, that's where the breather is, unless you plan on changing the Hytran anyways.
I'm really screwed now. I was mowing on a hill going up and down like always, but then my engine shook vigerously, and belched black smoke, died, and had alot of white smoke coming off the block under the head, but the gasket looks in tack all way round. It turns over fine without the plug in it, but with the plug, it turns over and then locks up, and the engine won't even sputter. I checked the carb, and the coil/pionts, and everything looks ok, I even had my dad who is very mechanicaly inclned look it over, and he couldnt figure it out... any Ideas?
As much as I hate to do it, that might be waht I'll have to do. won't know till I get a better look st it tomorrow.
My freinds dad worked on engines in cars alot, and he suggested that the timing could have been mucked up, but I dont know what could have caused it?
My freinds dad worked on engines in cars alot, and he suggested that the timing could have been mucked up, but I dont know what could have caused it?
bchristian
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- Sep 17, 2006
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- displayname
- bruce christian
I had a problem today on my 1200 cub cadet with a 241 Kohler. On Monday I changed the oil, plug, and filter (put in non-detergent 30W). Today I cut grass for about 40 minutes and it sounded like it was running out of gas, and it coughed, I shut off the key, and it backfired ran a bit and died. I opened the hood and found that the air cleaner was not on, the engine was noticeably hotter, and when I removed the dipstick there was white smoke coming out of the dipstick (more than usual). After almost messing my pants and 10 minutes later, it started back up and I drove it into the garage. I plan to pull the plug tomorrow and see what it looks like. Does anyone know what would the fix be, or is it a hiccup and be o.k.? Email me and let me know your thoughts, and would love to have someone troubleshoot it with me tomorrow in the morning if at all possible. Thanks in advance, Bruce.
glippert
Well-known member
I recently replaced the gas cap/guage on my 782 because the clear plastic lens on the old one was broken/gone. After running for a while with the new cap securely in place it sounded like it was running out of gas, then died. I opened the hood and found the plastic gas tank collapsed! The new cap is a generic model purchased at Fleet Farm. After I loosened the cap slightly, it started right up and ran great. Does a genuine Cub version have some sort of vent in it, like a pinhole in the center of the lens?
Maybe someday I'll learn to stop trying to save a penny. (The good news is, my dad was right: you learn something new every day, especially if you own a Cub!)
Maybe someday I'll learn to stop trying to save a penny. (The good news is, my dad was right: you learn something new every day, especially if you own a Cub!)
rchristensen
Well-known member
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- Aug 12, 2006
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- Richard Christensen
Bruce C.
I would bet you have a blown head gasket.
I would bet you have a blown head gasket.
- Joined
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- Home of the Plow Special
Stevenson-
Here are some pictures of a very nice Original with a 16hp in it that was at Travis' Plow Day this year. It's owned by Bryon Henningsen of South Dakota.
He said it was a "replacement" Kohler engine, not out of a previous tractor. It looked like an AQS model with an Origial Oil pan on it.
As you can see, he did a few mods to it too..
A 16hp is too tall to fit under the hood of an Original with the gas tank on top of it, so he made a bracket to hang the tank off the front of the tractor...
(Actually I think it's a tank from a 1X8/9 series Cub.)
..and used a fuel pump to get the fuel up to the carb. (You can see the black fuel line coming from the tank.)
Here are some pictures of a very nice Original with a 16hp in it that was at Travis' Plow Day this year. It's owned by Bryon Henningsen of South Dakota.
He said it was a "replacement" Kohler engine, not out of a previous tractor. It looked like an AQS model with an Origial Oil pan on it.
As you can see, he did a few mods to it too..
A 16hp is too tall to fit under the hood of an Original with the gas tank on top of it, so he made a bracket to hang the tank off the front of the tractor...
(Actually I think it's a tank from a 1X8/9 series Cub.)
..and used a fuel pump to get the fuel up to the carb. (You can see the black fuel line coming from the tank.)
sblunier
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- Aug 4, 2006
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- Steve Blunier "Mr. Plow" (Central IL)
Gear Drive Shifting / Gear Clashing
It seems some gear drive Cubs have issues with drive shaft "run-on" after the clutch pedal is depressed. Denny mentioned an add-on fix he developed for dealing with it in an earlier post. In my experience, most driveshaft run-on can be attributed to the pilot bearing/bushing.
In the center of the clutch driver (the steel plate with the 3 drive pins that bolts to the engine cup) there is a bronze/oilite bushing that serves as the pilot bearing. Over time these can get dry, gunked up, scored, etc....all leading to drag on the driveshaft stub that engages the bushing and contributing to driveshaft run-on. I have done several things to help cure issues with the bushing in the past, all with good results.
1) Clean well and lightly lubricate.
A good cleaning with tooth brush and brake cleaner followed by a light coating of grease seems to help a great deal.
2) Slightly enlarge/clean-up pilot bushing bore.
If the bushing is gouged or worn LIGHTLY dressing the bore with a sanding drum in a Dremmel tool will encourage free movement and clean up gunk that can cause drag.
3) Polish drive shaft.
Cleaning up the driveshaft stub that engages the pilot bushing, removing scratches, wear marks, etc. with a wire wheel prior to reassembly can make a difference.
I have fixed several "hard shifters" by cleaning up the pilot bearing area as described above.
It seems some gear drive Cubs have issues with drive shaft "run-on" after the clutch pedal is depressed. Denny mentioned an add-on fix he developed for dealing with it in an earlier post. In my experience, most driveshaft run-on can be attributed to the pilot bearing/bushing.
In the center of the clutch driver (the steel plate with the 3 drive pins that bolts to the engine cup) there is a bronze/oilite bushing that serves as the pilot bearing. Over time these can get dry, gunked up, scored, etc....all leading to drag on the driveshaft stub that engages the bushing and contributing to driveshaft run-on. I have done several things to help cure issues with the bushing in the past, all with good results.
1) Clean well and lightly lubricate.
A good cleaning with tooth brush and brake cleaner followed by a light coating of grease seems to help a great deal.
2) Slightly enlarge/clean-up pilot bushing bore.
If the bushing is gouged or worn LIGHTLY dressing the bore with a sanding drum in a Dremmel tool will encourage free movement and clean up gunk that can cause drag.
3) Polish drive shaft.
Cleaning up the driveshaft stub that engages the pilot bushing, removing scratches, wear marks, etc. with a wire wheel prior to reassembly can make a difference.
I have fixed several "hard shifters" by cleaning up the pilot bearing area as described above.
Art,
Nice pics of the modified Cub Cadet Original (CCO)!
When looking at the rearend pic of the modified CCO, it appears to me that the owner used dual wheel couplers to extend outward the wheel base spacing to allow for the larger rear tires.... Is that what he did there or what?
Thanks!
Ryan W
Nice pics of the modified Cub Cadet Original (CCO)!
When looking at the rearend pic of the modified CCO, it appears to me that the owner used dual wheel couplers to extend outward the wheel base spacing to allow for the larger rear tires.... Is that what he did there or what?
Thanks!
Ryan W
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