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Archive through May 07, 2014
- Thread starter mmasheris
- Start date
Help Support IH Cub Cadet Forum:
hydroharry
Well-known member
- Joined
- Jul 22, 2007
- Messages
- 4,468
- displayname
- Harry Bursell
Scott N - yup, I'd put everything on the back burner until you make sure the engine runs. And the first thing I'd do about that is to make sure that replacement S/G rotates the correct direction. I never remember if it's CW or CCW. (I assume you already checked the engine for compression). Next I'd check the new wiring harness you mentioned. It has to be hooked up correctly. Along with this I'd probably disconnect the drive shaft because of what ever problem there is with the hydro so you are checking the engine completely independent of the drive line.
Jeff - gee thanks buddy, I didn't know you came all the way out here and did my garden for me.
Jeff - gee thanks buddy, I didn't know you came all the way out here and did my garden for me.
snicklas
Well-known member
Harry - I have checked for compression and it seems ok, the engine turns over well and the oil in the crankcase looks good. I will check the starter-generator, however, it is one of the locations the new wiring harness is not connected. I am going to study the wiring diagrams on the forum and hook it up correctly, throw a battery in it and see if it will turn over. This tractor was part of a "package deal" I bought, and I knew when I bought it, it was not running, but was in fairly good shape. I also got a really nice 1650, QA42A Thrower, 42" hydro angle blade, #1 tiller (no extensions) a 50A for the 1650, 38 for the 127 and some other parts. The plans for the 127 is to replace a basket case MTD at the Mother-In-Laws. So it should be a fun project if nothing serious is wrong with it. If there is something serious, then we will cross that bridge when we get to it. I think it just needs a little time and love.... it will be fun to learn the narrow frame hydros.... since this one is the "odd man out"... I will keep y'all posted as to what I find.
J
jclazar
Guest
I was hoping someone would volunteer to repair these implement lift buttons. Quite a task for some of us. The button on my model 72 is broke, but, still has a nub on top. I can continue to use the implement lift using a 1/4 inch drive 3/8ths deep well socket. I have float if I hold in the socket. Works in a pinch.
bellwood
Well-known member
- Joined
- Jul 29, 2007
- Messages
- 141
- displayname
- Brian Ellwood
Yeeesss! I am fresh off an hour of mowing on the 124
New push rod made a huge difference... Timing is beautiful!
The PTO issue was 100% due to the high speed needle being set too rich (my plug was darker than a black hole)
Once I dialed it in the engine just started loving life
My mow deck now spins up in seconds and is strong like bull even mowing 3" off grass going up hill
Even had a neighbor, whose used to seeing me on the 2146 or my big ol' Kubota, stop me and ask what the heck I was riding
Thank you EVERYONE, seriously, I am grinning cheek to cheek...
New push rod made a huge difference... Timing is beautiful!
The PTO issue was 100% due to the high speed needle being set too rich (my plug was darker than a black hole)
Once I dialed it in the engine just started loving life
My mow deck now spins up in seconds and is strong like bull even mowing 3" off grass going up hill
Even had a neighbor, whose used to seeing me on the 2146 or my big ol' Kubota, stop me and ask what the heck I was riding
Thank you EVERYONE, seriously, I am grinning cheek to cheek...
Harry ,you seen the lift handle i have on my 123 .was missing a button ,just a bolt in their ,i machined a sleeve to go inside and made a in dent for the top ,so the wire loop could be used to ,i made that as well .every thing is on hold now as i,m building a deck for my son .
hydroharry
Well-known member
- Joined
- Jul 22, 2007
- Messages
- 4,468
- displayname
- Harry Bursell
John L - if you still have part of the button inside the tube then the little float lock should still work. When depressed it should still hold what's left of the button in the down (float) position. You shouldn't need your socket unless you want to raise the deck to a locked position.
Also, I just checked and CC Specialties has a big green IH Thumbs Up for brand spanking new buttons, and the spring, but not the washer (and that washer needs to be correct).
As for "volunteers" to do the repairs, if you put together a sign up sheet of everyone that needs it done maybe you could get someone to fix a bunch of these for a reasonable price - I'm not sure that would be a volunteer, but it's a way to get the job done.
Scott - I can't understand why the brake pedal would be jammed down, and the hydro release lever as well. Something sure sounds fishy. Seems to me the rod on the brake pedal (between both frame rails) would have to be a broken in half, or something else has broken and jammed it in place. But you still have to start with the engine and work from there. And best to make sure the wiring is correct to start with so you don't burn up the V/R or S/G or gauges or coil or points. Actually sounds like a fun puzzle - I just don't know about the Mother-In-Law being in line to get it.
Dave C - your lift handle is the older style and using the wire bail on the top to hold the button in the float position. John has a later style where the button has an indented section as you can see in the pics below. Instead of the wire bail over the top of the button, there is a little float lock button that pushes in toward the center of the button and locks the middle section in place. Fancier newer design that's tremendously harder to repair.
Also, I just checked and CC Specialties has a big green IH Thumbs Up for brand spanking new buttons, and the spring, but not the washer (and that washer needs to be correct).
As for "volunteers" to do the repairs, if you put together a sign up sheet of everyone that needs it done maybe you could get someone to fix a bunch of these for a reasonable price - I'm not sure that would be a volunteer, but it's a way to get the job done.
Scott - I can't understand why the brake pedal would be jammed down, and the hydro release lever as well. Something sure sounds fishy. Seems to me the rod on the brake pedal (between both frame rails) would have to be a broken in half, or something else has broken and jammed it in place. But you still have to start with the engine and work from there. And best to make sure the wiring is correct to start with so you don't burn up the V/R or S/G or gauges or coil or points. Actually sounds like a fun puzzle - I just don't know about the Mother-In-Law being in line to get it.
Dave C - your lift handle is the older style and using the wire bail on the top to hold the button in the float position. John has a later style where the button has an indented section as you can see in the pics below. Instead of the wire bail over the top of the button, there is a little float lock button that pushes in toward the center of the button and locks the middle section in place. Fancier newer design that's tremendously harder to repair.
