Archive through May 06, 2012

[sblunier]

Tristan & Donald,

Plowing depth is controlled mostly by the plow adjustment. The lower mounting holes will not automatically increase depth, but may help to align the plow's line of draft with the hitching point.

It is very difficult to run any Brinly plow (with no weight on it) with a truly "flat" landside...they will tend to ride up over the furrow floor at the heel some, but it shouldn't be excessive in normal soil.......heavy sod is not normal soil.

Flatten the plow out a bit more, shooting for about 6" of depth (with the wheels in the furrow on the second pass) and then increase your speed. Plows are technically designed to plow a depth equal to ~1/2 the width of cut, so slowing down to plow extra deep may be impeding your ability to roll sod over. FWIW, a true and consistent 8" of depth with any Brinly (including a 12" bottom) is a real feat, and generally isn't the standard....6" is much more common and realistic....(no comments here guys...

)

All sod plowing with a Brinly is a compromise. Brinly bottoms are designed as "stubble bottoms" with high boards and tall vertical waste edges. They are intended for plowing typical garden soil with no top cover to hold the soil in a ribbon. True sod bottoms (often seen on older 1 and 2 bottom tractor plows) have short moldboards with very long wings and shallow angles on the waste edge. They also tend to have much more "cup" at the end of the board (some even have moldboard extensions to firmly place sod). These features insure that sod ribbons go over and stay over. In short, we are asking a lot out of Brinly bottoms if we want them to plow sod well.

I will post some pics that may help....

 

[mgwin]

Ed Cardinal,

The "stack" was made out of 1-1/5" thinwall conduit. This will slip right over the end of the stock muffler end. I took it to an exhaust buisness to have it bent, using a piece of cardboard for a template. The rain cap can be easily purchased. The "stack" looks a lot taller than it really is. It is just tall enough for the fumes to be above breathing level!

From 1971 to 1974 was the beginning of the "wide frame" series. During this time CC built the model 86,108,109,128,129,149,and 169.

Dang! And we wonder why they call Steve "Mr. Plow"!!!

We ought to call him "Professor Plow"!!!

 

[sblunier]

This is an honest 8" furrow wall in sod, but made with a 12" plow, weighted, and with my highly modified rolling cutter (you can see the marks in the wall)

These are some line of draft sketches for reference.

 

[mgwin]

Daniel G.

You can do it! Changing a tire is not all that hard. A few tips that will help: 1: Put some cardboard down on a solid floor for the action to take place on so the rim won't get scratched up. 2: As Dennis said, use a little dishwashing liquid for lubrication. 3: Place the rim face down so all the pry marks (scratches) will be on the back side of the rim. 4: If pry bars and tire shoes aren't available, use a round shank screwdriver very carefully.(the square shank will dent the rim lip) 5: Take it slow, and inch by inch. Hope this helps, and good luck!

Dan Jansen,

You stole it!!! Pics please. Congratulations! By the way, welcome to the forum!

 

[sblunier]

Types of moldboards 1950's

IH Moldboards fropm the 70's

Moldboard Extension to help turn sod completely over.

Looking at the different types of bottoms, you can easily see that sod needs looong boards for complete control. the Brinly stubble or early GP board is to tall and straight to be a great sod plow.

 

[dtanner]

Steve Blunier "Mr. Plow"

Thanks for that info. I know know why I was unable to get the sod to roll over.I did find that the deeper I went it was harder to get control of the sod. I found there was one speed that did help to get some roll over.I want to get my plow out and turn some soil soon, this has got me in the mood to try the plow on my 1512 just to see if it will do the job better than the 149 did.I would have loved to have a stop for the hydro handle so I could control the speed of the plow in the soil.I will adjust for 6" to see if the plow will give me a better turn over . I have offered to do a few gardens free just for fun. I only have two acres here and well I need more to enjoy all my Cub attachments and tractors.I moved 6 yards in a drive way and when I finished I was asked what I wanted for the job, I said $10.00 to cover the gas , he was happy and so was I . It was great fun .

 

[bwittman]

I must be Nuts. I just purchased a 1250 over the telephone. I did this because I keep thinking I want a tractor to drive up and down the street and to haul flower garden stuff around to the various beds around home. Parades might be fun, too.I have no interest in mowing, snow blowing or doing any other meaningful work with the tractor. Mostly, it will be something to paint and polish. I asked a series of questions. The seller seemed to answer them truthfully, not telling me what I want to hear. There is a few things wrong with the tractor, such as the charging system doesn't work and the side shields are missing. I'll have to fix and finish all in time. I have always liked IH, and I hope this is a fun, not frustrating project. thank you for the support. this is a great site!

 

[mgwin]

Brian W.;

Another victim of yellow fever (cubcadetitis). Welcome to the forum.

 

[dfrisk]

TOM H. - Dad had a LOT of tire tools back when he was farming. Only time he had tires mounted was when he had new rear tractor tires installed most times. Otherwise him or I did all the tire work.

The best tire iron Dad had was a normal "spoon", but it had a zig-zag bend about a half inch up from the tip, for gripping the bead of the rim better so when you pryed the tire bead over the bead of the rim the spoon didn't slip. It wasn't really needed on small tires, but on larger rear tractor tires with 6 & 8 ply casings you needed all the leverage you could get.

Unfortunately all his tools got sold at his auctions. We mounted the new tires on the Super H back in about 1969 or '70, even transfered the fluid from the old tires into the new tires, took a day for each tire. Normally swapping a pair of those small rear tractor tires without fluid would have been an easy afternoon's job. Last summer I replaced the 57 yr old tubes with new tubes, removed all the fluid, sand blasted & repainted the rims to get rid of 57 yrs of rust from the CaCl fluid, and about a dozen coats of bad paint. Without all the good tools I had to hire the tires bumped off and back on. I pulled the rims & tires off the cast wheels and hauled them to the tire shop. Cost about $100 for the tire work and $100 for the new tubes, and about $50 for the blasting sand, and $50 for the primer & paint. NO more fluid for ME!

 

[dfrisk]

STEVE B. - One other difference I see in the pic's of your plowing compared to Tristan's is, the ground you were plowing is just a bit drier than Tristan's, the dirt crumbled, so it had to have been drier.

Nice job of plowing, you have that plow dialed in perfectly!