mpatterson
Well-known member
Looks good Shultzie, how you like that #4 trailer behind the Cub?? Looks like you can put a heck of a load on it too! Nice duals!!
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Archive through May 06, 2012
- Thread starter dtanner
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Another question from this newbie:
Is it possible to convert a non-ported hydro to a ported unit for addition of a hydro lift assly and if so what all is entailed in doing so?
Also, why would oil be coming out of the top of one of the check valves? Is this fixable or does the valve have to be replaced.
Thanks!!
Dave Schwandt
Is it possible to convert a non-ported hydro to a ported unit for addition of a hydro lift assly and if so what all is entailed in doing so?
Also, why would oil be coming out of the top of one of the check valves? Is this fixable or does the valve have to be replaced.
Thanks!!
Dave Schwandt
stanner
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- Scott Tanner... Can't even see the Cub in this mess..
Anthony,
In a 129, to just change the fluid out, either a pump or removie the external tube from the hydro that goes from the pump to the bottom of the trans case. But, as said below, removing the cover you can inspect for globs of goo... I would say once you've inspected, any future changes would be simpler using the other methods... JMHO..
David,
The FAQ's are a beautiful thing..
http://cubfaq.com/relief1.html
http://cubfaq.com/relief2.html
In a 129, to just change the fluid out, either a pump or removie the external tube from the hydro that goes from the pump to the bottom of the trans case. But, as said below, removing the cover you can inspect for globs of goo... I would say once you've inspected, any future changes would be simpler using the other methods... JMHO..
David,
The FAQ's are a beautiful thing..
http://cubfaq.com/relief1.html
http://cubfaq.com/relief2.html
David-
It would best to just find a ported pump. You can switch the pump castings out but it's quite involved. The relief valve might just need cleaning. I'd take the leaking one out and clean it well. You didn't mention what type of valve you have but I'm assuming manual (has the little button on top). If the cleaning doesn't work you can have them rebuilt or just buy new.
It would best to just find a ported pump. You can switch the pump castings out but it's quite involved. The relief valve might just need cleaning. I'd take the leaking one out and clean it well. You didn't mention what type of valve you have but I'm assuming manual (has the little button on top). If the cleaning doesn't work you can have them rebuilt or just buy new.
Ok so I sharpened up the coulter, raised it, put the tractor back up on cinder blocks, flattened the plow.
Pics are here: http://s903.photobucket.com/albums/ac235/kc2ebm/cub_cadet/plowing/
The plow is just about dead even, the tail is up maybe 1/2". The plow will go down a bit farther, it hits the concrete at 1 click up from the lowest on the lift arm. On the level fully raised its maybe 3" up but I didnt actually measure it.
One thing I noticed (and its in one of the pics) is that my sleeve hitch bracket I think is bent. It is twisted to the left. So I positioned the adjusting bolt to compensate more and I think I have the plow set straight back now.
Any other suggestions I am all ears. I might just take it out now and try, seeing how I have only minutes or maybe an hour before rain is probably going to hit.
Pics are here: http://s903.photobucket.com/albums/ac235/kc2ebm/cub_cadet/plowing/
The plow is just about dead even, the tail is up maybe 1/2". The plow will go down a bit farther, it hits the concrete at 1 click up from the lowest on the lift arm. On the level fully raised its maybe 3" up but I didnt actually measure it.
One thing I noticed (and its in one of the pics) is that my sleeve hitch bracket I think is bent. It is twisted to the left. So I positioned the adjusting bolt to compensate more and I think I have the plow set straight back now.
Any other suggestions I am all ears. I might just take it out now and try, seeing how I have only minutes or maybe an hour before rain is probably going to hit.
I went out and gave the plow a test run in the garden. It did much better but its still not setting down in the furrow. It did roll most of the soil over but maybe because the garden isnt all connected with roots (well except for the weeds that are already growing).
Here is the furrow:
http://i903.photobucket.com/albums/ac235/kc2ebm/cub_cadet/plowing/IMG_1201.jpg
And a couple pics of the plow:
http://i903.photobucket.com/albums/ac235/kc2ebm/cub_cadet/plowing/IMG_1200.jpg
http://i903.photobucket.com/albums/ac235/kc2ebm/cub_cadet/plowing/IMG_1199.jpg
Those are the first pass, I did one more pass to see if it would do better once it had a furrow for the wheels to drop into, but the results were the same.
Or click on the link in my last post below for the complete album.
Here is the furrow:
http://i903.photobucket.com/albums/ac235/kc2ebm/cub_cadet/plowing/IMG_1201.jpg
And a couple pics of the plow:
http://i903.photobucket.com/albums/ac235/kc2ebm/cub_cadet/plowing/IMG_1200.jpg
http://i903.photobucket.com/albums/ac235/kc2ebm/cub_cadet/plowing/IMG_1199.jpg
Those are the first pass, I did one more pass to see if it would do better once it had a furrow for the wheels to drop into, but the results were the same.
Or click on the link in my last post below for the complete album.
Tristan Stewart
I see the heel is not in the bottom of the furrow and it should be.I think you need to back off the screw so the plow won`t nose in as much. Also what bolt holes are you using in the sleeve hitch ? you could move them to the bottom hole to get more depth. Also how high are you putting the left side of the tractor (blocking) off the floor? I would put the sleeve hitch in the bottom two holes and turn the screw handle adjuster so the heel of the plow sites in the furrow.
I see the heel is not in the bottom of the furrow and it should be.I think you need to back off the screw so the plow won`t nose in as much. Also what bolt holes are you using in the sleeve hitch ? you could move them to the bottom hole to get more depth. Also how high are you putting the left side of the tractor (blocking) off the floor? I would put the sleeve hitch in the bottom two holes and turn the screw handle adjuster so the heel of the plow sites in the furrow.
Here is my first attempt at plowing, The sod was very thick and did not want to roll over for me. I think I was plowing to slow and that made the sod stand on its edge.The 149 loved plowing and I loved the way it would bark when the going got hard lol.
I was getting about 8 " here but not a good roll over.
I was getting about 8 " here but not a good roll over.
Donald, I am using the center of the 3 holes. I'm not sure if I need more depth, I dont think its going down to the stop as it is. Even with the tractor up on cinder blocks on the one side (8"?) and just a ramp on the other (2"?) it sits on the floor and I'm still one notch up from the bottom on the lift. So it will go a lot deeper but its just not pulling itself down? But its easy to try, I'll move to the lower hole and try another pass. So far the rain is holding off.
Wayne, The valves are not the ones w/buttons. These have a tiny pin hole in the center of the top and that'e where the oil is coming from.
I swapped in another from a parts tractor and the leak is gone now. I was just wondering if a thourgh cleaning would solve the problem in the leaker.
I suspected as much on the ported pump question. I was sold a hydro lift setup w/the understanding that it would be a bolt on job for my 1250. NOT!!! Another lesson learned!
Dave S.
I swapped in another from a parts tractor and the leak is gone now. I was just wondering if a thourgh cleaning would solve the problem in the leaker.
I suspected as much on the ported pump question. I was sold a hydro lift setup w/the understanding that it would be a bolt on job for my 1250. NOT!!! Another lesson learned!
Dave S.
Tristan Stewart
Try the lower holes on the bracket on the back of the rear end and attach the sleeve hitch there. I have been looking to find a picture of the adjustments I made to get to 8" dept but have not found themI have taken pictures to the sum of two 6 gig cards in my camera and now just put an 8 gig card in it.That should last a year I hope.I never delet a picture I have posted lol, I think I might need that picture again .I will go open my two Cub shed and see IF I can dig out my plow .bbl
Try the lower holes on the bracket on the back of the rear end and attach the sleeve hitch there. I have been looking to find a picture of the adjustments I made to get to 8" dept but have not found themI have taken pictures to the sum of two 6 gig cards in my camera and now just put an 8 gig card in it.That should last a year I hope.I never delet a picture I have posted lol, I think I might need that picture again .I will go open my two Cub shed and see IF I can dig out my plow .bbl
I set my plow by the plow manual for the 129 and it did great right from the start...or until the trunion slot blew out. I switched to the 1650 and got the garden ready for the harrow.
It was only cutting 4 or 5 inch deep but was rolling the sod over well. After about ten times over with the big harrow it was ready for the tiller.
It was only cutting 4 or 5 inch deep but was rolling the sod over well. After about ten times over with the big harrow it was ready for the tiller.
Quick tech question; I'm in need of a new front tire and I'm looking at this one- http://www.millertire.com/products/category/16x6-50-8-carlisle-rib/ as it's a near exact replacement for the one that's currently on there. Here's what I'm wondering- has anyone ever mounted one of these (or similar) tires by themselves, how hard is it? I've done bicycle tires before, I realize not the same thing, but how similar?
Thanks.
Thanks.
Here is my 122 with its new blade.
DAN G. - I do ALL my own tire work on my CC's. Give it a shot. You need a good pair of tire irons, sometimes known as tire "spoons", three helps sometimes on BIG tires, but on small frt tires you shouldn't need three. You could maybe substitute large screw drivers for the tire spoons but I don't recommend it. A rubber mallet also helps, and some liquid dish washing soap for lubricant on the tire bead. You'll also need a valve stem "fishing tool", it's a valve cap on a "leash", feed the valve cap thru the valve stem hole, attach it to the valve stem on the tube, and pull it thru the valve stem hole. They also have a valve core removal tool on them which you will need.
Be careful when you work the last bead down over the edge of the rim, that's when 90% of the pinched inner tubes comes from.
Be careful when you work the last bead down over the edge of the rim, that's when 90% of the pinched inner tubes comes from.
New cub owner. A 129 I got for 100$ has duels and weights. Did not run but a look at the forum and one day new hytrans, filter and points reset drove it around the yard. Decided it needed paint all apart now. I think it has been modified though. The tank is mounted on the motor and no horizontal bar on top grill. Going to finish and get it going again then see about getting it back to original. Thanks for the forum great help.
