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Archive through May 06, 2012

IH Cub Cadet Forum

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dtanner

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Joined
Dec 8, 2005
Messages
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Donald Tanner
Tristan Stewart

The bottom heel of the plow should be resting in the furrow ,Something is way wrong with the way that plow is set up. I will look in the am for some pictures to post. The side of the furrow should be straight . I think that plow is not put together corectly. If I were you I would look at some of the plow days pictures till you see a behind shot of a tractor in action, That might help you out. Later Don T
 
I plan on remedying that with a home-made heat shield.. or I'll route my exhaust differently.
 
Tristan Stewart

Take another picture to show what holes you are using on the hitch on the tractor.
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More speed will help roll the sod.
 
Charles,
How is your exhaust routed now? Got pics?
It should look like the one in the pic Ed Cardinal posted on the previous page.
 
Tristan,

Raise the rolling cutter and sharpen the rolling cutter (use an angle grinder and sharpen both sides like you would a mower blade).

Without weight, a rolling cutter set too deep will actually carry the plow in wet ground, holding it out of the ground. In sod you only want a std cutter in about 1-1/2", too much and it rides out.

Flattening out the point, as others have said, will help keep the sod rolled and the plow in the ground.

20-30# of bar bell weights (or simmilar) hung on the plow frame above the bottom will also help keep it in.

Limiting the left swing of the plow by adjusting the bolts on the sleeve hitch adapter will help keep the plow from over cutting in tough sod...let the tractor hold it back some.

A few pics of plowing some VERY HARD sod about 10 years ago with my 149.

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Ed C
Nice 149! Kids and Cubs--a natural fit. You wore that young man right out. Nothing like getting a little rest while Dad is working on the Cub. Those are special moments!
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9/10 Cubs with a 10" plow get the best results running in position "2R" on a Brinly sleeve hitch. But that is somewhat tire dependant. If you have to switch to "1", use "1L", not "1R", as it will give you more "anti kick-out" support from the hitch plate adjusting bolts.

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Charles,
Here is another pic of what the exhaust should look like.

For your viewing pleasure.....
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P.S. I added a "smoke stack".
 
well, see, the motor is out of the cub and torn pretty much apart.. It looked like the pic you had, though.
 
I've been doing some traveling in Ohio and got a free rental upgrade to a minivan - soooo, I took advantage of the opportunity to haul some tractor stuff back home with me that I found while I was north of the Mason Dixon.

I got a K341AQS engine and a K321 - which I believe is a AQ. I think the K321 came from a green tractor, it has drilled and tapped holes on the bottom of the oil pan for engine mounting as well as tabs on the side of the block for engine mounting. I plan on using the K321 one for another color tractor.

Would it be a true statement that the K341AQS was only used on a Cub Cadet or was it used on other color tractors? Given the buzz on the 169 Cub Cadets and the attraction of a 16 hp single Kohler on a 1650, it makes me wonder why anyone would pull one of these engines and not use or restore the tractor it came from. I'm going to keep this engine on the shelf for a back-up for my 1650. BTW, the K341 is a 12 fin engine.

The other item I was looking for was a newer style aluminum housing spindle assembly for my 44A deck. I found a fellow that was selling a 50 inch deck from a CCC 1682. Aside from the paint being yellow, a lift handle on the chute end and rollers in the front instead of skids, it appears to be similar or the same as a 50C deck. It even has a pre-drilled hole to move the lifting eye to the wide position for an older IHC tractor. The deck is heavy and solid. Price - $50. I'm still looking for a spindle assembly for my 44A as this yellow deck ought to fit my 1650 just fine (please tell me if it won't) from what I can tell.

I might have to paint it white though...
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Hydro Harry - I fear I am adding to the collection, first a motor, then a deck - could another IH be looming around the corner???
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Bill I have seen k341AQS in several other brands, but not the same spec number.

Marty that is a sweet 128
 
It's nuts what one learns and then forgets. Sometimes the vault just doesn't go back far enough....
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Thanks guys. Jeff, I didn't even know they made a #109. Thought they started at #129. Bill those K341's were also used on JD model 300's from 1975-1978. Then they were renamed 316's until 1982 I think. Great engines. I have 4 of them. 3 in 300's. True beasts! Just remember JD used and odd size CRANK (1 inch).
Joshua, yes those moments with my son I don't forget. Sharing a passion for old garden tractors is something that I hope we can always enjoy together.
Marty, that machine looks great. I would love to have that STACK on my machine. Where can I find one of those?
This pic ain't exciting but it shows a very very nice battery area that has all the original painted cables, stickers, and volt reg' with almost NO corrosion! First time I every saw that on a 40 year old machine.
238764.jpg
 
It was a decent Cub weekend all things considered. Replaced the front wheel bearings on the 100 along with new turf tires on it and tubes. Sanded down the chipped paint on the rims and re-painted them (primed & IH white). Replaced all the ball joints on the 100 as well, thanks to site sponsor for GREAT service in getting them to me. Thank you!! That thing steers almost as good as power steering now. What a joy! Hooked up the #4 cart to it and the wife loaded it up with weeds and crap from the flower gardens left over from last year and the winter. I gotta get some pictures of it in action too. I have to say they look pretty sweet together!
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Didn't get the 982 started though. Hooked up the mower deck and greased it but would not start!
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Really do not remember what I did last year to get it going the first time. Need to figure that out. Battery is fully charged, sanded the ground and positive ends on battery with emery paper as well as the ground on the frame at the battery. It rolls over but its SLOW! I think I had to pull the engine last year at one time and clean the starter...but not sure if that was to have it speed up or what? Any suggestions? The terminal on the starter is clean too. It just seems it needs a kick to roll it over quicker?
 
Good morning. I've a question about changing the trans fluid in my 129. I checked the FAQ and read the recommended procedure which seems to me to be a bit more involved that might be necessary.

What do you think of using a drill pump or a manually operated syphon to pull the old fluid out? I removed the fill plug and put in a 1/2 in hose. It reached the buttom of the case. If I jacked up the front end slightly I could get most of the fluid out. Even removing the cover you're not going to get it all because there will be some in the lines and pump. I've done this with auto and truck differentials with no problems at all.

Good Idea or not?
 
Marty, beautiful 128!
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Wyatt, yep!
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Ed C., that is a very nice 149! Great starting point for a restoration. Looks like you wore your son out, cute photo.
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Anthony, it may work but if it has the recommened HYTRAN fluid and any moister got in there it will have a glob or globs in there as the HYTRAN makes water turn into a jellish glob in there.

tilt to the rear and pull the cover you will need a new gasket but they are reasonbly priced also dont forget a new filter
 
ED C. - re Your comment about Kohler K341 crankshafts, ALL Cub Cadets, from the '61 to '63 Originals (I'm about 95% sure) and all the way up to the 86/108/109/128/129/149/169's used 1" dia crankshaft output. The quiet-line tractors may have a 1" dia crankshaft too, but the block is different for mounting the electric PTO clutch plus they have the bendix style starter.

ANTHONY S. - re sucking the old oil from a CC rearend. Yes, it may work, but on a "new to You" CC I would pull the cover and inspect everything. If the Prior owner used Hy-Tran, it absorbs water by design, so condensation inside the rearend is removed when the oil/filter is changed. Even with the internally sealed castings there's little if any chance of rust from condensation contaminating the rearend components. Once Hy-Tran gets as much water in it as it can hold (takes YEARS) it forms a jelly-like substance and most people wipe the insides out and clean them with Brake-Clean. Most people ignor routine maintenance on these old CC's so I strongly recommend opening up the housing. It's not that hard, the gaskets are cheap, only seven bolts if I remember right. And the job is done right. Takes me over an HOUR just to get to the rear cover on my 982, have to pull most of the 3-point hitch off, the rear PTO, etc.
 
Thanks for the help fellas. I'll try and move the coulter up, and tighten up the bolt for the left swing - it was already limiting left swing a little, but perhaps not enough. I'll try to rig up some weight too. Steve B. I tried all three of your figure B and ended up leaving it in the #1 position but it still feels like its leaving a strip of untouched sod inbetween (but probably because its kicking out the back and not making a nice deep cut.

It is tough sod... it was an old hayfield thats now our side yard. High clay content here, and yeah a bit damp. Other than a couple weeks last summer it hasnt been dry in 2yrs lol. It did rain last friday. Going to rain again later today.

I have used this plow twice on the big garden the last two years, and it did ok but never was perfect, and I keep trying to adjust it. Maybe I should try and practice and get it right on the big garden first since its good loose garden soil now. I dont know if going from garden soil to virgin sod makes the adjustments different though, or just harder.

It was sold to me as a 10" plow from someone on here (I cant remember who know) and its a 1000 with 25x10x12 tires. I tried 2nd but the results were the same but harder to control the tractor so a dropped back to first gear.
 
Moved some dirt yesterday. About 5 loads.
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I know how we all like pictures.
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