• This community needs YOUR help today!

    With the ever-increasing fees of maintaining our vibrant community (servers, software, domains, email), we need help.
    We need more Supporting Members today.

    Please invest back into this community to help spread our love and knowledge of all aspects of IH Cub Cadet and other garden tractors.

    Why Join?

    • Exclusive Access: Gain entry to private forums.
    • Special Perks: Enjoy enhanced account features that enrich your experience, including the ability to disable ads.
    • Free Gifts: Sign up annually and receive exclusive IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum decals directly to your door!

    This is your chance to make a difference. Become a Supporting Member today:

    Upgrade Now

Archive through May 03, 2019

IH Cub Cadet Forum

Help Support IH Cub Cadet Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Yeah Man! That's bad to the bone!
Shift.gif
buttrock.gif
 
Charlie-
I'm a fan of the Richard Christainson approach on those gaskets.......cutting one from sheet-neopreme. Seems any amount of cork just gets permanently smashed and eventually leaks. Do you have any thoughts on that?

Kraig-
It's from the 20. There are lots of little things that needed attention, so I figure it's due time.

More details to come...
 
Art:
The one I used (PN# 921-3004)in the R&R on my 129 - Cubfaq 94 - was a composite of what appeared to be cork and neoprene. Nine years this month - no leaks, of course I used strawberry jam on the composite side..
 
Art, the very first gasket I made is on my 1450 and to this day hasn’t leaked a drop. I made others and installed on different Cubs that I no longer own so I can’t speak for them. I also put one on my 782 when I rebuilt it and both the 1450 and 782 are still working daily with no leaks.
 
Richard/Gerry-
Thanks for the thoughts on the gasket.

Oh, and sorry for butchering your last name Richard!
 
Charlie - I'd keep close watch of them if Kraig's ever around... ZZZZZZig ZZZZZZag's
 
Nice Charlie, always like those zzzzz's.
I have or have had nearly all.
Currently 127 s, 126, 73, are used here,

But I'm slowly going to the 129- 149, just easier
For me to get on and off in my old age, and a 109.
 
Charlie, very cool!

These just in from Austin E.:

325385.jpg


325386.jpg
 
Mike, you posted in the wrong area... I've quoted your post here. It sounds to me like the condenser is bad. I suppose it could also be a connection issue with the points.

<blockquote><hr size=0><!-quote-!><font size=1>quote:</font>

By mike whalen (Mjwhalen) on Monday, May 06, 2019 - 07:36 am:

MY 129 wont stay running after about 10-15 mins of running it just shuts down.No missing nothing just bang its off.got gas,the first time it sat nad cooled a bit and started the second time nothing. I tried to check for spark at plug nothing .I had power to coil. HELP ??<!-/quote-!><hr size=0></blockquote>
 
Charlie,

I still have most of those 1x6/7 series picture frames somewhere. I always thought they were cool and saved them from our dealership days. Finding the right kind of rubber band is key with just enough tension to hold them together but not too much that it deforms or cuts through the tabs.
 
Mike W:
There can be a number of reasons that a tractor quits running after warmup. Your number one clue is that it is OK after cooling off.

-If it cranks but won't start, cross seized engine off the list. If it cranks weird (like too fast) you've lost compression (see my last comment below).
- Check for spark as soon as it quits.. No spark, look at points, coil, condenser. Check to see if coil is really hot, they can fail with an open connection inside. Condensers fail, more often with the newer replacements. Also wiring can fail, but usually not a "cool off and it's OK" thing.

- If you have spark and it starts after sitting, you may have a fuel flow issue, the float bowl runs dry and takes a while to fill again.

The thing to figure out is if the time it runs is random or it pretty much fails around the same time every time. The heat/cooling period may be a red herring, but has been pretty consistent in my experience. I had an engine that would run about 5 minutes, then wouldn't restart , turned out to be the exhaust valve stem had zero clearance to the tappet, once it got hot, the valve couldn't close.

Keep us posted, we're here (randomly) to help..
 
I dig Austin E ‘s 128 I like that rear pto stepup, How rare of an option was a rear pto
 
Ethan, I'm not sure how rare but quite a few people got a 128 with rear pto over on the facebook group.

Question, the IH sticker on the grille is peeling off, how do I go about re gluing it? I thought about gorilla glue. I also have a rear pto rubber knob i'll have to put on my pto engagement lever would glue make that stick too?
 
Austin, You're spot on about Gorilla Glue (caulk tube type). Amazing stuff...…..just don't over do the amount you use.
 

Latest posts

Back
Top