• This community needs YOUR help today!

    With the ever-increasing fees of maintaining our vibrant community (servers, software, domains, email), we need help.
    We need more Supporting Members today.

    Please invest back into this community to help spread our love and knowledge of all aspects of IH Cub Cadet and other garden tractors.

    Why Join?

    • Exclusive Access: Gain entry to private forums.
    • Special Perks: Enjoy enhanced account features that enrich your experience, including the ability to disable ads.
    • Free Gifts: Sign up annually and receive exclusive IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum decals directly to your door!

    This is your chance to make a difference. Become a Supporting Member today:

    Upgrade Now

Archive through May 02, 2009

IH Cub Cadet Forum

Help Support IH Cub Cadet Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Up early on a Sunday - right to the Forum. Anyway, thanks Wes and Kendell, the info is very helpful. Kendell can you post the entire manual?
drool.gif
Sounds good Tim, but I think its going to be a looong refurb. I'll post pics.
 
Greg; I used to own a 100 that came from the dealer with that style adjustment on the 38" deck. So it is probally standard.
Richard; Slipplate works good on the deck.POR 15 last longer but is harder to put on. Also after using POR 15 it is hard to take the nuts off the bolts for repairing spindles ect.
 
Does this do hickey on the choke plate have anything to do with the fact that I had to remove green paint from the throttle shaft?
151002.jpg
 
Greg:
Digger's already done that for us, right here. Note that you need Adobe Reader, or if you're tired of that bloated dog, Foxit Reader, to open the .pdf .
thumbsup.gif
 
Hey everyone,
I just picked up my first "o"
Found this one up in the White mountains of N.H.
Looks pretty good except dash tower and home made
pto lever. I am looking for pics of the correct
lever and linkage on a finnished tractor.
Can anyone help? Oh yea, check out the serial #
151007.jpg


151008.jpg


151009.jpg
 
OK,now the picture shows up! I hope my restoration goes better than my computer skills.
 
Jim:
Edit your entry and put a <return> before every picture. Charlie will do it if he has to, but he'll be grumpy the rest of the day....
irritated.gif
 
Kendell -

I took care of it. Now I'll be grumpy the rest of the day
lol.gif
 
I have a 106. The PTO appears not to be engaging thus the belt does not drive the deck. All pulleys seem normal and the PTO turns easily by hand with the belt off. The engaging lever also is working. Has my PTO failed or can I fix it with a rebuild kit. Also, every thing seemed very hot when operational and after slowing down to the complete failure described above.
Appreciate som help here.
 
OHHH NO.....Now We've done it....BRYAN's Posted!
jawdrop.gif


RICHARD - Where'd You get all the BRAND NEW Carter Carb parts?

MIKE B. - You didn't mention when You said the PTO pulley turns if the PTO clutch was engaged or disengaged. With the PTO lever forward to engage the clutch the pulley should not turn unless the engine crankshaft turns. The heat is a sure sign the clutch has been slipping. A rebuild is probably in order with the rebuild kit, which includes a new friction disc, clutch spring, and three anti-rattle clips and the clutch spring setting tool and instructions. You probably want to remove the clutch and disassemble before ordering parts to see if You need a new fiber or brass thrust button, the center pin for the clutch, or new clutch fingers or arms. The included instruction sheet gives good step-by-step assembly instructions.
 
Thanks:
It does not rotate engaged. I assume engaged means the unit that presses against the unit is not touching it. It's a bit counter intuitive, but I think I get it. Thanks for your post. I did a rebuild 4 years ago, I don't remember why, but it worked until now. I have been fooling around with the deck, put a couple of new spindles in and a new old tension pulley and spring in. I still have a jimmy rigged track pulley set up below the PTO in that the last owner just welded in a bolt on each pulley flange and bolted each to the front frame, but it seems to work even thought there is no spring to give and take tension. I wonder if that might have something to do the failure. Also, I removed the belt and engaged the deck. The PTO did not rotate.
 
Dennis Frisk, CC Specialties supplied the rebuild kit. A good soaking and a wire brush got her pretty clean. BTW chasing the choke shaft ball was a .....

151017.jpg
 
Greg Papa,
There isn't a "exact" adjustment on the spring assis. It's what you like best adjusting.
 
I thought of the name of the saw that goes on the tractor thingie I was thinking of making. Down here in the Ozarks it was refered to as a stump saw. Would be very handy on the front of the 1250. Does anyone know what that small pulley is for on the rear of the engine that is between the the fly wheel and the driveshaft mount? Would kinda like to use that pulley for the aux. hyd. pump. It sorta looks like a narrow guage pulley and looks like sometime the bolts in the shaft end of the joint have came in contact with it and shoveing the side in slightly. Is there something I should be looking for in that respect? Still watching it rain!!!!
construction.gif
 
Another thing to cross off the to-do list:<font size="-2">
<font face="times new roman,times,roman">Find Bryan.......<font face="arial,helvetica"></font>
</font></font>
 
106 PTO follow up: Took the PTO off and it seemed loose. I took it apart and cleaned it and re calibrated with the gauge that I had left over from the older rebuild. Problem is that I didn't think to remember if the tips on the pressure spring(s) point up or down. I am assuming they point down and touch the pulley?
Am I right here.
Thanks,
Mike
 
Tim S.

That pulley is designed for use with the cub aux hydraulic pump unit, so that would be my first choice. Post in the classifieds and see if anyone has one they would part with.
 
Back
Top