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Archive through March 31, 2008

IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum

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fterzak

New member
Joined
Mar 30, 2008
Messages
2
displayname
Frank Terzak
Good morning

I have what i think is a 102.

It has a standard 3 speed transmission.

It starts via an old style car generator and 10hp kohler engine.

THe other day it stopped moving unless you get the clucth pedal at a certain point.

Is there a shear pin or something that broken.

Ichecked and the shaft into the transmission is turning.

Thanks Frank
 
Remco, here's an idea for you for making your Cub Cadet haul trailers. This is something that Richard Christensen came up with a few years back.

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FRANK - Just because the driveshaft is turning and You can see it in the holes/slots in the frame doesn't mean it's really turning the gears in the transmission. The 10 HP and larger gear-drive Cub Cadets are very hard on the very rear most spirol roll pin that connects the driveshaft to the input shaft in the reduction housing on the transmissions. I have a 70 at home that Dad bought NEW in 1965 that the pin & driveshaft have never been replaced because it's always had only a 7 or 8 HP engine. I also have a 72 I bought in Jan '81 and refurbished and it never had a problem until I replaced the 8 HP replacement engine that was installed in it in '80 with a 10 HP engine in '85. Since that 10 HP engine was installed I've sheared the roll pin and had to replace the driveshaft twice. Now that that tractor has a 14 HP engine I had to step up to pulling tractor parts.

Interesting comment.....even back in '79 & '80 when I was still at FARMALL I overheard an Engineer make this same comment about the 10 HP and larger gear drive Cub Cadets.

The pin that always breaks is the front pin on the coupler at the back of the driveshaft. The rear pin seldom bothers. I bet You find Your rear hole on Your driveshaft is elongated also. 1/4" wide and 3/8" to 1/2" long! There's only a small fraction of an inch of the actual input pinion visible between the coupler and the reduction housing cover so You don't realize that shaft isn't turning.
 
Thanks for your reply.
I'll check again.
I bought it 20 years ago for $150.00 and this is my first problem with it. Its startes and runs every time and I think its the best deal i ever got. Friends and family are always trying to buy it from me. If anyone has a parts break down it would be very helpful.

Thanks again Frank
 
Kraig, that looks great! Where can I buy one and have it shipped to NL?

BTW, this is my 123:

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Best wishes,

Remco
 
Remco, I don't believe that the hitch is available to purchase, you may have to make one your self or have one made locally. I posted the photos of it to give you ideas of one possible solution for you. Your 123 looks to be in pretty good condition. Interesting exhaust routing. How about some photos from the right side and the rear?
 
Gents,
I know this may be off topic, but it's the right brand, so here goes...

A good friend of my wife has a 1949 Farmall Cub tractor. It needs a few things such as brakes and a tuneup. Do any of you know where I can find a parts breakdown of the tractor (specifically the rear brake assy.) so I can order the parts needed. I want to have part #'s ready for the dealer when I go.

Thanks in advance.

Carey
 
Remco, wow, lots of interesting modifications to that 123. The seat and seat mounting, the rear lights, the exhaust, the fuel shutoff, the dual drawbar and the foot rest supports. I wonder what the big hole in the dash was for? I see some added sheet metal on each side of the rear differential that puzzles me, it is around the axles.

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Kraig, I don't know what the extra sheetmetal is for... I will try to make a better picture of it.

The previous owner says that the hole in the dash is for an hour-counter. He also had an hour-counter to go with it, but it doesn't fit as the hole is too big for it.

I haven't discovered yet how the original exhaust should run. And the fuel shut-off is (i think) just a modern replacement. But I don't have the sediment bowl...

I'm quite happy with the seat-support as it's got springs, so it's a soft ride now :)

Best wishes,

Remco
 
Remco, here is a photo of one of my Cub Cadet 125 tractors, which is nearly the same as a 123. This one has the cast iron grill and the starter/generator removed. I've pointed out the PTO clutch but you can also see how the stock exhaust/muffler should be mounted.

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Thanks for those of you that piped in on my "Original Brake band" question. I'll have to check some more on material$ vs. a new one$.
 
Remco-
I agree with Kraig, those are some "interesting" modifications.

Kraig-
Did you see the extra sheetmetal at the front of the pedestal, where the driveshaft is attached to the engine and goes under the pedestal?
 
Remco-
That exhaust routing gives me some ideas for an upcoming project I've been pondering.

Kraig-
Shhh!
happy.gif
 
Art, that's not extra sheet metal, but it has been modified with a slot possibly to remove the pedestal without removing the drive shaft. Here's a photo of one of my 125s showing that panel.

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Oh yeah,
shhh.gif
 
Art, Kraig, what piece of metal are we talking about now? What is the pedestal?
I'm not sure what I will do yet, get it back to original as far as possible, or just make it a nice tractor :)
First I'll sort out the hitch problem and use it for a while... it won't be until summer that I get around to doing some serious work on it. I also have to finish the house and do some extensive work on the Ambulance...

Best wishes,

Remco
 
Kraig,
Thanks for posting the diagram of the Brinly lift straps. I'm going to be needing to make a couple soon. What's the thickness of the metal on those? 3/16" or 1/8"?
 
Carey - Damnit 11 post before yours Charlie just put up a reminder that this is for CUB CADETS NOT CUB TRACTORS or anything else.
There's an OFF TOPIC section for such things.
 

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