Archive through March 30, 2016

[rabrown]

Thanks, Jim. I will test it out using your suggestions and let you know how it turns out. RAB

 

[dlbarnett]

Roger B. If all checks out on your test, Some meters have an adjustment screw on them, not sure about the cub cadet ones. Or you maybe able to tweak adjust it back to center

 

[mhomrighausen]

Roger B. Just a crazy and wild thing to try... for a very brief instant try reversing the hookups on your volt meter. Sometimes they will go back to zero. Had a couple actually do that.

 

[kconway]

Anybody soak a new head gasket in water before assembly like the service manual says? I've never heard of doing that?

 

[jbaker]

never heard that

 

[mgonitzke]

That's not needed for modern head gaskets. Keep in mind some things have improved considerably since those manuals were written

 

[kconway]

Thanks Matt, I thought that may be the case.

 

[eford]

I'll be trying Marlin's suggestion. Got another related question, I have an old volt rectifier that made its way around the quietline fleet that really makes the meter swing between idle and full throttle. Whichever tractor its on. I need to verify with meter actual numbers. Anyone else see this, even with older volt regulators?

 

[aschumacher]

Earl, could be dirty/misadjusted contacts inside regulator. I don't know how well adjusting works but sliding a piece of very fine sandpaper between them would work. What works well is a relay points contact cleaner, but suspect few people have them.

 

[digger]

Allen S.
Just so you'll know for future reference.
Earl was talking about a rectifier, which you can't get into.

 

[eford]

Yes, I was talking about the rectifier. Good to know for the regulators though, thanks Allen. I thought maybe there was another issue that followed, like its about to go out. I had 2 rectifiers die on me last year, on 2 different tractors. Just my luck I guess. This one has been borrowed from #2-1450 for mowing season. Its worked fine on the 1200 most of last summer until head gasket went again, then #1-1450 to finish out year in October. Still charges battery, gage just swings from middle at idle to full right(charging) at full throttle. Going for some cub time this weekend. Will see what the meter reads. #1-1450 original went right after I got it in April, 1200 in June.

 

[gzimmers]

Hi, all. I'm planning to look at a 127 that has a rear plate that I'm not familiar with. What is its purpose? Thanks

 

[nbodin]

Gary- the plate you circled, as far as I know, is to make it look pretty. Just a filler plate so to speak. If you put rear lift on it it gets thrown in the shed.

 

[snicklas]

Earl,

What you are seeing out of that rectifier, I would call normal....

I have a 1450 and 1650 that I use regularly. After any start (including after being on a battery charger and is fully charged, per the charger (I have one of the electronic ones)) at an idle, the needle leans just to the right of the "0" mark in the center. When I rev to full throttle without the lights, or PTO engaged the needle is most of the way toward the "Charge" side of the meter. Both do this, so for me, I would consider what your describing as "normal"

 

[eford]

Thanks Scott. I hadn't seen this happen before on the many cubs and others I've come across. A friend had 2-1000's, 1200, 1250 that didn't do it. Same goes for other friends 125, 73, 1650, 2-102's, 147, 149, 169, original, and a later 1812. Wow, I just realized how many different cubs I've had the pleasure of using or helped work on.

 

[fcurrier]

Not very good eye candy, but Ray Leo might like it:

 

[snicklas]

Earl,

We have 12 different Cubs in our fleet. The newest being an IH 782, and a single Narrow Frame 127, all the rest are Wide Frames. I've noticed only the AQS engines with the rectifier seem to do this. Dad's 149 that we've had for over 40 years, the needle hardly ever moves. But the quietlines and the 782 seem to move around more.....

Both of mine have fairly new batteries in them, and are stored in a relatively warm garage.... so the batteries are fairly healthy....

 

[gzimmers]

Thanks, Nate. I was concerned that it might have been someone's effort to repair or hide something.

 

[chaines]

I am getting the Original apart and have a couple of questions. I am sure there will be more to follow.

Does anyone reline the brake bands used on the rear brakes for the Original. The one I have is really soaked in oil and not sure it will come clean.

I have a pair of bad rims on the front of the Original I am working on and am looking for replacements. Xtreme Motorworks has the rims listed below. I am wondering if these will work if you replace the bearings with the bushings that are normally used in the front end of the O. I hope it would be a direct replacement where you could push the bearing out and put the bushings in their place. The bearings are set up for a ¾” shaft and the bushings are 7/8”. Another consideration would be the length of the hub so it would be the correct length on the shaft (Outside dimension with the bushings installed is 3”).
Front 8” Rim with ¾” Bearing
White painted rims with 3/4” bearings installed 8” x 3 ¾” wide inside bead to inside bead. Hub is centered on the rim. Comes with Bearings installed. Painted white from the factory. Great for 70/100 and 4.8/4.0-8 tires.

 

[rchristensen]

Earl Ford if I was you I would put a voltmeter on the battery and see what your rectifier-regulator is really putting out. At max engine RPM the reading should be about 13.7 volts. Normally when the rectifier-regulators go bad the output voltage is low, but sometimes they will go up to 15 to 17 volts and that can damage your battery.