Archive through March 27, 2008

[mgonitzke]

Shane P.-

No ball in the newer coupler. In fact, I think the ball is omitted on later Quietlines as well. The driveshaft length is going to be different for sure. I would make sure that you make the new driveshaft such that you can use two flex discs on each end. They will last longer that way.

 

[kweaver]

Charlie - They get your address mixed up with mine again ?
You can keep it , it's to small for mine.

 

[klejeune]

My late model 1450 does not have the ball in the coupler.

 

[mhomrighausen]

Charlie. Whatever you do, DON'T open that box. It may say there is plow inside only in today's world it could be something else. Tell you what. Just send that box to me and I'll take great caution to make sure that it isn't a bomb or something.

Woke up to snow this morning and it is still snowing. I need to get the Cubs ready for Plow Day.

 

[jdonovan]

I am doing the brakes over in my 86. Tractor sat for many years and the rotor's have surface rust. Do they have to be as clean as a cars would be and if a machine shop cleans them up, will it effect the braking since they will be thinner.
thanks Joe

 

[speterson]

Thanks Matt,
Thats what I was hoping to hear. I plan to use the two flex disks for sure. Charlie already provided me with some replacements.

 

[mgonitzke]

Joseph D.-

If it's just surface rust, why not just remove the rust with a wire wheel, sandpaper, electrolytic derusting, etc. instead of having them turned by a machine shop? You are at worst stopping an 800# tractor plus whatever load you are pulling doing less than 8 mph, not stopping a 4000# car doing 75 mph. I never clean up brake rotors; they usually polish up by themselves if you use the tractor regularly.

Actually, I wouldn't have them turned on a lathe. They are pretty thin to begin with, and I'm sure they have warped a bit over the years, and the runout will be enough that they can't be machined true without removing too much material. You'd probably have to get thicker brake pad material to compensate.

I'd get new material from mcmaster-carr and reline them, at any rate. Those pads get worn out, especially on a gear drive.

 

[jdonovan]

OK thanks, that what I'll do. I have the new brake pads already to go..Joe

 

[aschumacher]

Think Charlie has been making pads for sale, or has acquired them from other sources. Click on CC SPECIALTIES above.

 

[rchristensen]

It didn't take me long to decide that Original's just were not my cup of tea. A quick Craigslist listing and it went down the road. Now I have room for another real Cub.

 

[mtoney]

I agree, I like CCO's but for plowing, nothing beats hydro and hyd lift for plowing. I love the extra room on my 982 super. I am tall and feel cramped on the smaller cubs. Cheers Mike

 

[mgonitzke]

Anybody know if the 12" bottom from a brinly Cat '0' will bolt onto a 10" brinly sleeve hitch plow? I'd really like to pull a 12" with my 582 at the Chippewa Valley WI Plow Day in May to clean the bottom before I get the 3-point on the 782D. I'd also like to see that M18 in the 582 work a little...

 

[lbuttke]

Matt.

Yes it will, but your best bet is to bolt on the entire frog assembly as you will also need the landside and moldboard for it to work corectly.

 

[mgonitzke]

Lonny-

By "frog" do you mean all of this?

 

[lbuttke]

Matt.

Yes, all that will have to be changed over to your other plow.

The easyest way to do it is to remove bolts # 32 & 35.

 

[mgonitzke]

Thanks Lonny!

 

[mcaruth]

I've got a question for you. changed the voltgage regulator on my 105, and it burys the gage on the charge side when you rev it up. my question is, can I set the voltgage regulator so it don't pull quite that much, or do I have another problem? don't know if there is any setting to them or not, but the old one just came up about 1/4th of the way when reved up. thanks.......mcaruth

 

[talbertine]

I got my tune up kit in the mail today. i have a question about the kit itself. i'm currently getting a manual for it (the 127). how hard is it to change the oil filter, spark plug is pretty simple i think i haven't had a chance to look at it, and the air cleaner is easy to replace. my question about the air cleaner is does it need to be soaked in anything and should i run that green foam thing around it?

theo

 

[lbuttke]

Theodore.

Air filter / if you have the green foam pice, use it as every little bit helps. The filter its self need no soaking.

Hydro oil filter / you will need a oil filter wrench to remove the old one, works best if you can get the tractor up in the air. A pair of car ramps will help out.

Spark plug / simply remove old one, properly gap new plug as per manual and install.
Biggest thing to worry about here is stripping out the threads in the head, depending on how long the old plug has been in motor and how much carbon had built up around the plug. Also do not over tighten a the plug.
Again follow the manual on the proper tork setting for the plug.

 

[lbuttke]

Michael.

If you have a hand held meter used for checking voltage ( DC voltage I belive ) check and see what the voltage reading is at the battery at WOT.
You should not get a reading above 14.5 volts.
Any more than 14.5 and you have a problem and can burn up the battery along with other electrial components on your cub.