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Archive through March 26, 2012
- Thread starter dtanner
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Robert, Here's where it goes, see image below. I had to make one for my Original as well. I believe I used a short length of steel tubing, I guessed as to the length. Whatever length I went with, it's been working great.
Basically it's there to center the clevis within the yoke. The spacer is only needed on the lower side, gravity does the rest.
pfitzwater
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- Patrick James Fitzwater
is the teaser spring really a spring? or a spacer on 128 clutches? I found this website http://gardentractorpullingtips.com/clutch.htm and he was talking about replaceing the spring with a soild peice of steel, I know this is about pulling and not general tractors. I don't have much experence with these tractors to know what should be and shouldnt. I do know what a broken spring looks like though
I took off the "mule plate" I think its called also, this has no affect on the clutch assemble correct?
I took off the "mule plate" I think its called also, this has no affect on the clutch assemble correct?
mgonitzke
Well-known member
Patrick-
There is a lot of garbage on that website...yes, the teaser spring is a spring, and if you replace it with a solid spacer, you'll wind up with a very grabby clutch that'll just drive you insane.
There is a lot of garbage on that website...yes, the teaser spring is a spring, and if you replace it with a solid spacer, you'll wind up with a very grabby clutch that'll just drive you insane.
Don T2, here it is: 1x6/7 Service Manual If you go to the home page and look all the way at the bottom, there is a link there to a bunch of manuals.
Robert, glad that answered it for you. One reason I like photos and take a bunch of them and save a bunch of them.
Steve, nice!!
Robert, glad that answered it for you. One reason I like photos and take a bunch of them and save a bunch of them.
Steve, nice!!
dpbauer
Well-known member
Just a quik update on my 125- I did finally split the frame from hydro/rearend to get at the Cam Assembly and Plate Assembly. Wasn't too difficult once I realized I had to pull the cotter pin on the brake! oops
My trunnion is fine. My cam plate has excess side to side play and will be replaced. I'm debating on the Damper plate since reading the FAQ... I wonder if washer spacers will take out the play on this plate. I'll try it out tomorrow after work.
A question: Since I have the hydro/rearend separated from the frame, would you suggest/recommend any maintenance items? I'm looking to replace the drive hub, drive hub pin, and maybe the fiber damper. Other items? I only want to do this once, get her buttoned up and go cut lawn! Thanks in advance, danWI
My trunnion is fine. My cam plate has excess side to side play and will be replaced. I'm debating on the Damper plate since reading the FAQ... I wonder if washer spacers will take out the play on this plate. I'll try it out tomorrow after work.
A question: Since I have the hydro/rearend separated from the frame, would you suggest/recommend any maintenance items? I'm looking to replace the drive hub, drive hub pin, and maybe the fiber damper. Other items? I only want to do this once, get her buttoned up and go cut lawn! Thanks in advance, danWI
Matt & Patrick,
Lot's of garbage...not so sure about that.
I've found LOTS of usefull information on that site.Never mind what most of us think of the puke-bucket behind the site.
Using a spacer VS a spring is a matter of application. Pullers using a spacer are looking for more of an ON/OFF clutch switch verses Joe LawnMower guy easing his rig that final couple of inches into his shed where he would rather not drive through the back wall.
Short answer, use the factory spring.
Lot's of garbage...not so sure about that.
I've found LOTS of usefull information on that site.Never mind what most of us think of the puke-bucket behind the site.
Using a spacer VS a spring is a matter of application. Pullers using a spacer are looking for more of an ON/OFF clutch switch verses Joe LawnMower guy easing his rig that final couple of inches into his shed where he would rather not drive through the back wall.
Short answer, use the factory spring.
sblunier
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- Steve Blunier "Mr. Plow" (Central IL)
Patrick,
The 128 does use a cup that surrounds the teaser spring and is about 3/4 the length of the spring. This helps preserve the spring life by preventing it from going "coil to coil" in full compression under the force to the main clutch spring. The first 1/4 of the spring travel serves the "teaser" purpose, then the cup takes up the load and saves the spring from the torture of the main spring.
IMHO, a nice improvement over the narrow frame design.
The 128 does use a cup that surrounds the teaser spring and is about 3/4 the length of the spring. This helps preserve the spring life by preventing it from going "coil to coil" in full compression under the force to the main clutch spring. The first 1/4 of the spring travel serves the "teaser" purpose, then the cup takes up the load and saves the spring from the torture of the main spring.
IMHO, a nice improvement over the narrow frame design.
jbaker
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- jeff l baker
has anyone had to fill and redrill the hole in a hydraulic lift lever on a 149? this is where the lever connects with the control valve
The hole on mine is wallowed out. My first thought was to redrill right next to it or should I try to fill the hole with something like Kentucks favorite jbweld and redrill it
The hole on mine is wallowed out. My first thought was to redrill right next to it or should I try to fill the hole with something like Kentucks favorite jbweld and redrill it
pfitzwater
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- Patrick James Fitzwater
OK, Thanks for every ones opinions. I'll keep the puke bucket behind the currtin in mind
I took the covers off, checked to see if anything was broken and it looks ok. the throw out bearing is not coming into contact with the plate till the pedal is fully pressed. It doesn't slide on the drive shaft but it does spin freely, could this have worn out and from pressing the pedal slid it out of position? How can I tell if anything has come out of proper alignment besides checking all the rust markings
I took the covers off, checked to see if anything was broken and it looks ok. the throw out bearing is not coming into contact with the plate till the pedal is fully pressed. It doesn't slide on the drive shaft but it does spin freely, could this have worn out and from pressing the pedal slid it out of position? How can I tell if anything has come out of proper alignment besides checking all the rust markings
pfitzwater
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- Joined
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- displayname
- Patrick James Fitzwater
How hard is it to fully take the clutch and shaft out? I read the manual and it doesn't seem to hard and nothing to really adjust like the PTO.
I have realized my tractor has been victim of centuries of general neglect, the steering wobbles missing the top bearing I believe it is.
I have realized my tractor has been victim of centuries of general neglect, the steering wobbles missing the top bearing I believe it is.
Patrick,
I'd plan on pulling the grill and hood, and then the motor. From here pulling the clutch and drive shaft is easy
.
Now you have access for a good degreasing, steering adjustments and the driveline that is in need of attention.
Anymore, I can pull the motor from my 108 in about 20 minutes or less. Most of the time it's just easier to get it out, than to fight working around it.
Take lots of pictures along the way, and print out pages from the manuals and you'll do fine.
Any work you put into that tractor you'll get back 10X. The 108-169 series are on the TOP of my Cubby list.
I'd plan on pulling the grill and hood, and then the motor. From here pulling the clutch and drive shaft is easy
Now you have access for a good degreasing, steering adjustments and the driveline that is in need of attention.
Anymore, I can pull the motor from my 108 in about 20 minutes or less. Most of the time it's just easier to get it out, than to fight working around it.
Take lots of pictures along the way, and print out pages from the manuals and you'll do fine.
Any work you put into that tractor you'll get back 10X. The 108-169 series are on the TOP of my Cubby list.
mgonitzke
Well-known member
Rick-
There's a bunch of stuff on there that's just plain wrong. Some of his driveshaft dimensions don't seem to be correct from what I've found, and his explanation of which tractors had which fine-spline axles and carrier is totally wrong. There probably is some good info on there, but it's hard to know what to trust when there's so much BS on there.
There's a bunch of stuff on there that's just plain wrong. Some of his driveshaft dimensions don't seem to be correct from what I've found, and his explanation of which tractors had which fine-spline axles and carrier is totally wrong. There probably is some good info on there, but it's hard to know what to trust when there's so much BS on there.
