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Archive through March 23, 2014

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tzingleman

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Feb 22, 2012
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Tim Zingleman
Take this with a grain of salt because I'm not going by personal experience, just my use of Google. It appears the bearing part # is GBC 605. It also appears that you can get an entire Ross Easy Steering Upgrade Kit For 86,100,102 & 104 for $20 shipped.

Check this out yourself before you order, and I hope other, more seasoned users can supply some input.
 
Thanks, DT. I ended up with the '68 124 because my dad had it and I had just bought a new place that needed some work a good small tractor could help with. Before this, I had heard of Cub Cadets, but had no idea about the IH link. My dad sold it to me with the family discount, and I've been fixing it up since. I have done a bit of work with the thing, and I love it in its utilitarian ugliness that is beautiful, if that makes any sense.
 
On muflers of any kind. Just my two cents worth here. I now have mild/moderate hearing loss and constant ringing in my ears. I was strongly advised at my last hearing test to wear earplugs/protection while even running my Cub Cadets. Trust me on this guys.... NOT being able to hear normally anymore is NOT any fun.

Off to work. Great pictures of new acquisitions and all. Congratulations to all the guys with their new found Cub Cadets. Everyone have a wonderful week and be safe.
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no worries the 169 is not needed and will sit untill she has the proper muffler installed. the 14 and lower hp engines do not have the same size exaust.
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Paul, this was published here some time ago:
"the really cheap ($10) IH-71930-C91 kit with two bearings, retainers, and races fits properly in the steering box". Unfortunately I just saved this part of the message. I think it might have been published by Paul Bell. Hope this helps.
 
QUESTION ABOUT 104---I am purchasing a 104 from a gentleman next weekend. The seller wants to keep the creeper gear and is going to remove it. My question is, besides replacing the drive shaft (i'm assuming I just need the standard drive shaft for the 104), is there anything else I would need to do to get this operational again? Any help will be appreciated. Thanks in advance!
 
Mark R - I'm thinking just a new driveshaft, but let some of the others weigh-in as I don't have a tractor with a creeper, installed or removed one.
 
Mark R

what you will need will depend what the po takes off when he removes the creeper ; He might take the IH-394036-R1 COUPLER-CLUTCH SHAft that connects the drive shaft to the rear end .
 
Marlin, I'm in the same boat! And Just spent BIG BUCK$ for new aids too. At least now, I can hear BJ & Punkin' talk to me and even Cuddles when she cries all over the place for Carolyn when she is at work!!
 
Quick question: going to change the hytran in my 126 and later in my 109. Already did the fluid and filter change in my 1650.

No filter on the gear drive 126, whereas the 109 and 1650 have one. Looking at the manuals, I read, "change at 100 hrs filter and fluid" "change as required" "change once a year", etc.

My question is - how many hours to you typically put on your tractor before a hytran change? Same hours for gear as hydro?

Also, the manuals state to use 30w oil in the engine above 32 deg F and NOT to use 10w-30 or 10w-40 in the same temps. I know oil quality is much better today than it was 40ish years ago, but what was wrong with multi-viscosity oils back in the day? Just trying to understand, again, why IH did what they did.
 
Bill QQ - you raise some good questions. I probably cheated a little and went 150hrs on the hydros before changing the fluid and filter. I never owned a gear drive long enough but I can tell you I pulled enough drain plugs on the bottom of gear drives and almost always saw about a quart of water or more come out first. In my view they should be changed just as often as the hydros.

With regard to your oil question, maybe there weren't any low ash 10W30 or 10W40 oils back in the day, and I don't think it was IH's recommendation, I believe they were just passing along Kohler's recommendations.
 
Harry,

What's the consensus now about what is best for the old Kohler engines? Do most people use conventional SAE 30, or has something else been determined to be better?
 
The weather was good here on sunday so I put the mower deck on the 169 so the wife could get in the first mowing of the season, let the mowing season begin! I had had to get all the tractors out so I thought I'd line em up for photo
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The reason Kohler spec'd the straight weight oil was because those are splash lube engines; that spec even included the Magnum engines.
Concerns about gas dilution with only splash lube are worrisome since the oil must reach the valve area, along with the camshaft which are above the oil level, along with the crankshaft itself. Thinner oils tended not to "fling" as well. The dipper would have a tougher time keeping everything "wet" with fresh oil so the straight weight oils were chosen.
 
Doug Barnett

Great looking fleet you have there. Your cutting grass and we will get the biggest snow storm of the winter here Wednesday .
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I have just received a short block rebuild for my K321 14 hp that goes on my 1450. Question---Are the dip sticks to check oil level the same on the motors with the balance gears and the ones that don't have the balance gears. My dip stick from my old engine without balance gears touches the balance gears on my new one ???

Thanks Jerry
 
Doug B. Nice looking fleet. And a nice lawn. Ours is still brown and covered with leaves and some snow from today.
 
Thanks don. I checked your profile and your just a little east of me. We've only had one snowfall here all winter. I was at my cabin about 100 mile south of bellingham when it happened and we got nothin there.
 
Jerry G - I believe the dipstick where there were balance gears were on the cam cover - hopefully one of the experts will chime in and add/correct if I've missed the mark.
 

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