-
This community needs YOUR help today!
With the ever-increasing fees of maintaining our vibrant community (servers, software, domains, email), we need help.
We need more Supporting Members today.Please invest back into this community to help spread our love and knowledge of all aspects of IH Cub Cadet and other garden tractors.
Why Join?
- Exclusive Access: Gain entry to private forums.
- Special Perks: Enjoy enhanced account features that enrich your experience, including the ability to disable ads.
- Free Gifts: Sign up annually and receive exclusive IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum decals directly to your door!
This is your chance to make a difference. Become a Supporting Member today:
Archive through March 21, 2012
- Thread starter digger
- Start date
Help Support IH Cub Cadet Forum:
WAYNE - Other than a throw-out bearing eating itself or a teaser spring break I've never had a clutch go "out" on a GD CC, and I've put a lot of hours on GD's.
The old discussions I remember were that it really doesn't make any difference if your first CC was a hydro or GD, but you really need one of both eventually.
I mow most of the time with the 982 which of course is a hydro, but that has mre to do with the fact it has a 50 inch deck than the fact it's a hydro.
The hydro vs GD debate even gets going from time-to-time over on the RPM forum too. With today's power shift tranny's on BIG tractors the hydro advantage of infinite instant speed changes is reduced a lot, and the parasitic drag of the hydro isn't there to burn more fuel.
WYATT Compton saw me reach for the Torque-Amplifier on my #72 at the end of my first round @ PD # ONE (old habits die hard!) and we discussed several times how you could build a T/A for a GD CC. It would be a small clutch shifted planetary gear reduction unit from a compact automatic tranny like a creeper but only a 25-50% reduction, not a 4:1 reduction like the creeper, plus you could shift on-the-go. For most things you do with a CC the added pull power really isn't needed but the slower speeds would be nice. The other idea I've had is to build the Super Garden Tractor that IH should have built. Instead of starting with a CUB Farmall rearend & tranmission, start with the Farmall A/B transmission/rearend with it's 4-spd tranny. Give you three working speeds and a road gear. Plus all the gears, shafts, bearings are about twice the size of the parts in a CUB, so you could go pretty crazy with high HP engines.
The old discussions I remember were that it really doesn't make any difference if your first CC was a hydro or GD, but you really need one of both eventually.
I mow most of the time with the 982 which of course is a hydro, but that has mre to do with the fact it has a 50 inch deck than the fact it's a hydro.
The hydro vs GD debate even gets going from time-to-time over on the RPM forum too. With today's power shift tranny's on BIG tractors the hydro advantage of infinite instant speed changes is reduced a lot, and the parasitic drag of the hydro isn't there to burn more fuel.
WYATT Compton saw me reach for the Torque-Amplifier on my #72 at the end of my first round @ PD # ONE (old habits die hard!) and we discussed several times how you could build a T/A for a GD CC. It would be a small clutch shifted planetary gear reduction unit from a compact automatic tranny like a creeper but only a 25-50% reduction, not a 4:1 reduction like the creeper, plus you could shift on-the-go. For most things you do with a CC the added pull power really isn't needed but the slower speeds would be nice. The other idea I've had is to build the Super Garden Tractor that IH should have built. Instead of starting with a CUB Farmall rearend & tranmission, start with the Farmall A/B transmission/rearend with it's 4-spd tranny. Give you three working speeds and a road gear. Plus all the gears, shafts, bearings are about twice the size of the parts in a CUB, so you could go pretty crazy with high HP engines.
Gentlemen,
After removing the QA42-A snowthrower from my 1250 yesterday in preparation of the summer mowing season, I decided to fix a nagging problem that has been progressively getting worse. Got the ol' gal up on jackstands so the wrenching could begin:
I've noticed that my mower deck, when fully lifted, hangs lower on the left side than the right. I've also run out of adjustment on the deck hangers, trying to correct the problem. On closer inspection, with deck removed I noticed considerable rotational play in the left-hand rockshaft lift arm. It was obvious that this arm was lower than the RH side arm, thus causing the mower deck to hang lower on the left side. Inspecting from underneath the tractor revealed that the roll pin hole in the lift arm had ovalized somewhat, allowing for play and misalignment to occur. It was apparent that a proper repair job was in order so I decided to tackle it. It wasn't fun!
I drove out the roll pins with the greatest of ease using Steve Blunier's suggestion of the air impact chisel with a specially turned 5/8 diameter drift bit (thank you Steve!). Getting the arms free on the rockshaft involved emery paper, penetrating oil, cursing, swearing, and lot's of patience. I must remember that this has not been apart since the tractor was made in 1975.
Here's what the parts look like on the bench, after being degreased and cleaned:
The roll pin that supported this arm was worn several thousandths on the OD thus contributing to the slop:
Using a 5/16 dia. drill bit as a gauge pin, all the holes in the rockshaft are tight and uniform. However, the roll pin holes in the LH lift arm are obviously oval (hard to see in the photo):
My question to those with experience in repairing this type of problem - what did you do? I can think of several ways to fix this but wanted to get some feedback from those that may have done a similar repair. I hold you guys in high regard when in comes to clever fixes and hope you can help me with this one.
Thank you in advance.
Dave
After removing the QA42-A snowthrower from my 1250 yesterday in preparation of the summer mowing season, I decided to fix a nagging problem that has been progressively getting worse. Got the ol' gal up on jackstands so the wrenching could begin:
I've noticed that my mower deck, when fully lifted, hangs lower on the left side than the right. I've also run out of adjustment on the deck hangers, trying to correct the problem. On closer inspection, with deck removed I noticed considerable rotational play in the left-hand rockshaft lift arm. It was obvious that this arm was lower than the RH side arm, thus causing the mower deck to hang lower on the left side. Inspecting from underneath the tractor revealed that the roll pin hole in the lift arm had ovalized somewhat, allowing for play and misalignment to occur. It was apparent that a proper repair job was in order so I decided to tackle it. It wasn't fun!
I drove out the roll pins with the greatest of ease using Steve Blunier's suggestion of the air impact chisel with a specially turned 5/8 diameter drift bit (thank you Steve!). Getting the arms free on the rockshaft involved emery paper, penetrating oil, cursing, swearing, and lot's of patience. I must remember that this has not been apart since the tractor was made in 1975.
Here's what the parts look like on the bench, after being degreased and cleaned:
The roll pin that supported this arm was worn several thousandths on the OD thus contributing to the slop:
Using a 5/16 dia. drill bit as a gauge pin, all the holes in the rockshaft are tight and uniform. However, the roll pin holes in the LH lift arm are obviously oval (hard to see in the photo):
My question to those with experience in repairing this type of problem - what did you do? I can think of several ways to fix this but wanted to get some feedback from those that may have done a similar repair. I hold you guys in high regard when in comes to clever fixes and hope you can help me with this one.
Thank you in advance.
Dave
Tom, that says Powered By Kohler.
Dave,
Having never done such a repair, I feel eminently qualified to offer suggestions. So, just to start the discussions I would offer these options:
1. Put a new spirol pin in it and fix only part of your problem.
2. Weld up the holes and redrill them to the proper size.
3. Drill the Hub oversize and install bushings.
4. I assume that you do not have enough metal in the shaft to drill everything oversize and install a larger diameter spirol pin.
5. Weld the hub to the shaft.
6. Epoxy the hub to the shaft. Use glue that would fail after heating with a torch.
7. Find a better LH lift arm and replace yours.
Now, more knowledgeable folks can chime in with the pros and cons of each method, and maybe come up with others.
Having never done such a repair, I feel eminently qualified to offer suggestions. So, just to start the discussions I would offer these options:
1. Put a new spirol pin in it and fix only part of your problem.
2. Weld up the holes and redrill them to the proper size.
3. Drill the Hub oversize and install bushings.
4. I assume that you do not have enough metal in the shaft to drill everything oversize and install a larger diameter spirol pin.
5. Weld the hub to the shaft.
6. Epoxy the hub to the shaft. Use glue that would fail after heating with a torch.
7. Find a better LH lift arm and replace yours.
Now, more knowledgeable folks can chime in with the pros and cons of each method, and maybe come up with others.
- Joined
- Dec 3, 2005
- Messages
- 812
- displayname
- Binder 1650
Dave - Can you drill everything out a tad larger and use the next size up roll pin?
A couple of questions, please...
This is a governor spring on a K321. Is this area worn or is it supposed to be that way?
Also, I've been to several auto parts stores and can't find these electrical plugin connectors. Does anyone know where I can get them?
Thanks
This is a governor spring on a K321. Is this area worn or is it supposed to be that way?
Also, I've been to several auto parts stores and can't find these electrical plugin connectors. Does anyone know where I can get them?
Thanks
Grrrr I LOVE my Wireless Internet.... NOT! NORM, I had an answer to your questions typed out and my ISP booted me off.
ANYHOW, Your gov. spring is just about completely worn out. You can either replace it with a new spring.... Or break the end off where it's wore so thin and bend up part of the last coil to make a new hook on it. Make sure both ends aren't worn. If you rework the old spring the new configuration will be slightly shorter and stronger than the original spring but you can allow for that in setting & adjusting your governor.
On the wire spade connector, any chance you could replace the 2-wire connector with two 1/4" insulated spade connectors soldered onto the correct wires? I've seen mention of companies that sell those connectors on-line but I can't remember any of their names right now. Maybe do a Google search. I have the same rotten luck trying to get stuff at my local auto parts stores too.
ANYHOW, Your gov. spring is just about completely worn out. You can either replace it with a new spring.... Or break the end off where it's wore so thin and bend up part of the last coil to make a new hook on it. Make sure both ends aren't worn. If you rework the old spring the new configuration will be slightly shorter and stronger than the original spring but you can allow for that in setting & adjusting your governor.
On the wire spade connector, any chance you could replace the 2-wire connector with two 1/4" insulated spade connectors soldered onto the correct wires? I've seen mention of companies that sell those connectors on-line but I can't remember any of their names right now. Maybe do a Google search. I have the same rotten luck trying to get stuff at my local auto parts stores too.
