-
This community needs YOUR help today!
With the ever-increasing fees of maintaining our vibrant community (servers, software, domains, email), we need help.
We need more Supporting Members today.Please invest back into this community to help spread our love and knowledge of all aspects of IH Cub Cadet and other garden tractors.
Why Join?
- Exclusive Access: Gain entry to private forums.
- Special Perks: Enjoy enhanced account features that enrich your experience, including the ability to disable ads.
- Free Gifts: Sign up annually and receive exclusive IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum decals directly to your door!
This is your chance to make a difference. Become a Supporting Member today:
Archive through March 21, 2012
- Thread starter digger
- Start date
Help Support IH Cub Cadet Forum:
hydroharry
Well-known member
- Joined
- Jul 22, 2007
- Messages
- 4,468
- displayname
- Harry Bursell
Dennis - reopen that great debate? I never knew it closed. In fact, I think Charlie should set up a separate thread to discuss it. I will have to say last I knew America had voted and Hydros won out by 9:1 margin.
Hey, I wonder how far Don T has gotten on the St. Lawrence Seaway.
Hydro Harry
Old Cubs Never Die (Hydros Forever)
Hey, I wonder how far Don T has gotten on the St. Lawrence Seaway.
Hydro Harry
Old Cubs Never Die (Hydros Forever)
I have good luck with the rims I purchased from http://www.easternmarine.com/
They have them in either 4 or 5 lugs,
They have them in either 4 or 5 lugs,
mgwin
Well-known member
Question:
When I crank my 128 it starts and runs fine until I unhook the jumper cables from my weak battery. When I unhook from the weak battery, it runs for about five seconds. What is up with that?
When I crank my 128 it starts and runs fine until I unhook the jumper cables from my weak battery. When I unhook from the weak battery, it runs for about five seconds. What is up with that?
Dennis, Tom-
The GD might put more power to the ground but I'll have to agree with Harry when it comes to mowing. The hydros definitely have it there. I would guess mowing is what these tractors are used for in most cases too. I also use a hydro to pull other tractors around in the yard and I can walk by its side vs having to clutch. One last thing, the clutch never gives out on a hydro.
Don T.-
Every time you mention the temp I get shivers then I realize your on that metric stuff.
The GD might put more power to the ground but I'll have to agree with Harry when it comes to mowing. The hydros definitely have it there. I would guess mowing is what these tractors are used for in most cases too. I also use a hydro to pull other tractors around in the yard and I can walk by its side vs having to clutch. One last thing, the clutch never gives out on a hydro.
Don T.-
Every time you mention the temp I get shivers then I realize your on that metric stuff.
jbaker
Well-known member
- Joined
- Nov 10, 2008
- Messages
- 4,144
- displayname
- jeff l baker
Marty your battery may need replacing but once the tractor is started and the charging system is working you can take the battery out completely and the engine should continue running.
sounds like your voltage regulator or S/G is a more likely problem.
sounds like your voltage regulator or S/G is a more likely problem.
mgwin
Well-known member
Why did the bad battery make the cub cut off? That is a first for me. Put in another battery, cranked it, went and plowed my garden.
jbaker
Well-known member
- Joined
- Nov 10, 2008
- Messages
- 4,144
- displayname
- jeff l baker
Marty if your engine died after you disconnect the battery, that means somewhere in the electrical system there is something not sending power to your engine.
If everything is working you should be able to pull the battery out completely after starting and still run the engine for as long as you like.
It runs with a new battery for now but the whole time it is slowly killing that battery.
If the tractor engine dies when you disconnect the battery you have a electric issue and not a battery problem.
If everything is working you should be able to pull the battery out completely after starting and still run the engine for as long as you like.
It runs with a new battery for now but the whole time it is slowly killing that battery.
If the tractor engine dies when you disconnect the battery you have a electric issue and not a battery problem.
fcurrier
Well-known member
- Joined
- Jul 5, 2004
- Messages
- 3,155
- displayname
- Frank A. Currier(Northern Maine)
Marty: Grubnubbits. I heard about them about 42 years ago while in the NAVY, probably from a guy from Bowling Green. Seems they migrate and pull these little stunts while in the area. Similiar to Leprechauns, I think. They hang around here most of the year - usually moving stuff from where I know I just put it down.
Glad you got 'er going. That bad battery may have a shorted cell.
Glad you got 'er going. That bad battery may have a shorted cell.
mgwin
Well-known member
Jeff B.
Sounds like you are on the right track. Any suggestions for what to check? The bad battery (when good) seemed to lose it's charge over a short period. I could charge it back up and go on for another while, only to lose it's charge again. This time it would not start the cub, so I jumped it off with another battery while the bad one was still hooked up. When I unhooked the "jumper" battery the engine would cut off around 5 seconds later. I then put in another good battery and it runs fine. I am worried that this good battery will meet the same fate if I don't find the problem.
Frank,
I don't think it's the grubnubbits. I shot that scudder off the front porch with my 221 fireball!
Sounds like you are on the right track. Any suggestions for what to check? The bad battery (when good) seemed to lose it's charge over a short period. I could charge it back up and go on for another while, only to lose it's charge again. This time it would not start the cub, so I jumped it off with another battery while the bad one was still hooked up. When I unhooked the "jumper" battery the engine would cut off around 5 seconds later. I then put in another good battery and it runs fine. I am worried that this good battery will meet the same fate if I don't find the problem.
Frank,
I don't think it's the grubnubbits. I shot that scudder off the front porch with my 221 fireball!
jbaker
Well-known member
- Joined
- Nov 10, 2008
- Messages
- 4,144
- displayname
- jeff l baker
Marty the new one WILL meet the same fate if you don't fix your charging problem.
I would start at the starter generator and work your way back to the battery.
my original thought was either the S/G or voltage regulator, possibly a wire broke loose or even just a bad connection.
I would start at the starter generator and work your way back to the battery.
my original thought was either the S/G or voltage regulator, possibly a wire broke loose or even just a bad connection.
jbaker
Well-known member
- Joined
- Nov 10, 2008
- Messages
- 4,144
- displayname
- jeff l baker
Marty this may help to test your S/G and charging issue
. With the engine running more than half throttle, measure the voltage at the A terminal, it should be 13 to 14.5 volts. If it is 12.5 or less, ground the F terminal, if the voltage goes up to 13 to 14.5, most likely the problem is the regulator. Other possibilities are the wire from the F terminal to the voltage regulator, and the ground on the regulator not being good. If the voltage at the A terminal is 14.5 to 17 volts when you ground the F terminal, the regulator cut-out section is probably not connecting the A terminal to the battery. If the unit is measuring 13 to 14.5 volts at the A [without an external ground applied to the F terminal] terminal, the voltage measured at the battery should be within .1 or.2 volts of the voltage measured at the A terminal, if it is the system is working correctly.
2. If the unit fails the above tests, disconnect it and remove it. Using an ohmmeter, measure the resistance between the F terminal and the A terminal. A normal reading would be 7 to 15 ohms. If it measures less than that remove the end frame and pull the armature assemble out and look at the field coil connected to the F terminal. If the insulation is scorched, or it looks as if it has been overheated it is probably shorted.
. With the engine running more than half throttle, measure the voltage at the A terminal, it should be 13 to 14.5 volts. If it is 12.5 or less, ground the F terminal, if the voltage goes up to 13 to 14.5, most likely the problem is the regulator. Other possibilities are the wire from the F terminal to the voltage regulator, and the ground on the regulator not being good. If the voltage at the A terminal is 14.5 to 17 volts when you ground the F terminal, the regulator cut-out section is probably not connecting the A terminal to the battery. If the unit is measuring 13 to 14.5 volts at the A [without an external ground applied to the F terminal] terminal, the voltage measured at the battery should be within .1 or.2 volts of the voltage measured at the A terminal, if it is the system is working correctly.
2. If the unit fails the above tests, disconnect it and remove it. Using an ohmmeter, measure the resistance between the F terminal and the A terminal. A normal reading would be 7 to 15 ohms. If it measures less than that remove the end frame and pull the armature assemble out and look at the field coil connected to the F terminal. If the insulation is scorched, or it looks as if it has been overheated it is probably shorted.
mgwin
Well-known member
Yep, I just went and cranked it back up, unhooked the negative on the good battery, and it cut right off!
Something is screwed up for sure. I did unhook the battery so it wouldn't kill it too.
mgwin
Well-known member
Thanks for the info guys!
I will definitely check out all the suggestions. I did find some extra info in the FAQ sections. I will let you know what I find next week. I am going out of town this weekend for a little R&R. My job at work, and at home have about wore me out.
