The pto will need a rebuild, the generator pulley, moves around needs set scre or new pulley, oil has very fine almost like sand metal in it, only thing left to take off is bearing and generator (basket)pulley, oncei get bearing off. i need to find out if any of engine internals need replacing.
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Archive through March 21, 2010
- Thread starter bsell
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Eric It doesn't sound good but don't give up yet. If you caught it in time you might just need a new key in that basket and tighten the set screws, used replacement basket is anouther option. Be sure when you get it off to check the keyway in the crank. Even if thats bad you can still mave a machinist cut a new keyway 180 degrees from the bad one. It aint over yet.
The keyway looks good on crankshaft, what worries me the most is the very fine grainular metal in oil. hopefully it hasn't done to much if any damage. The basket is buggered up worse than anything so i will have to find a used goos one. My biggest concern is internal engine damage (if any has happened).
Eric, You can't see the area under the basket till you take it off, if it's bad it'll be under it. You never described the noise as a knock and you have found a problem with the basket. Change the oil, get the front clutch fixed and look into what caused the gas in the oil. See if it stops making the strange noise.
STEVE S. - re: inside hood brace on a 123 hood. Every CC from the 70/100 and newer is supposed to have that brace spot-welded in. Last model is the QuietLine tractors, the red tractors don't have them.
ART - I think you need a BIGGER Cart! We woke up to an inch of snow on the ground down here!
ART - I think you need a BIGGER Cart! We woke up to an inch of snow on the ground down here!
Eric T. Glad i was able to take a look at your cub yesterday. When i listened to the noise it sounded like it was coming from the front of the engine "front PTO". I also noticed that when i adjusted the carb the engine ran great with no smoke. In regards to you seeing, as you call it grit on in the oil-- do you know how long the previous owner had it sitting before you purchased it? The reason i ask is the grit could be rust that on the cylinder walls while sitting-- just a thought. Maybe when you change the oil run a magnet through the oil to see if its metal.
Frank C
Here are a few pictures of the mistake yesterday lol.
This is were I run into the rock with the front axel.
I had this rock here to build up my Cub road and now will have to haul more rock in to do repairs.
I had a blast and need to go and do some sod turning soon.
Here are a few pictures of the mistake yesterday lol.
This is were I run into the rock with the front axel.
I had this rock here to build up my Cub road and now will have to haul more rock in to do repairs.
I had a blast and need to go and do some sod turning soon.
Steve S,
All IH built Cub Cadets except the red 82 series had a cross brace in the hood, including the Original. Your 100 hood hits the gas tank on the 123 because the 2 hoods are not the same and are not interchangable as far as how they fit on the tractor. The front of the hoods are shaped different and the hinge bolt holes are in different locations because of the shape, which will cause the cross brace to hit the gas tank. The gas tanks and mounts for the 10 hp and 12 hp engines are different.
All IH built Cub Cadets except the red 82 series had a cross brace in the hood, including the Original. Your 100 hood hits the gas tank on the 123 because the 2 hoods are not the same and are not interchangable as far as how they fit on the tractor. The front of the hoods are shaped different and the hinge bolt holes are in different locations because of the shape, which will cause the cross brace to hit the gas tank. The gas tanks and mounts for the 10 hp and 12 hp engines are different.
Paul -- Thanks for the information. If I understand you correctly, you're saying my old 123 hood had a cross brace at some point in time, but it would have been positioned differently than the one on my 100 because they are not the same hood. Is that right?
PAUL - Been 45 yrs since I was around a '61 to '63 Cub Cadet, I didn't want to state it had the hood brace because I wasn't sure. And didn't feel like checking the archives or parts look-up for pic's since it didn;t pertain to Steves question. They're not exactly my favorite model. But I was sure everything else I said was correct.
I does get interesting trying to fit gas tanks & batteries under the hood and still miss that brace sometimes. Especially when they're bigger than OEM. Even my OEM Kohler replacement gas tank wouldn't fit without some modification!
I does get interesting trying to fit gas tanks & batteries under the hood and still miss that brace sometimes. Especially when they're bigger than OEM. Even my OEM Kohler replacement gas tank wouldn't fit without some modification!
Keyway on starter pullley is messed up pretty bad and pulley is wallowed out so i will have to find a good one. Need nearing and collar as well as pto rebuild kit, and a cotter key or whatever it is called. Next is to check and see how bad grit is in the oil.
kide
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- Gerry Ide
Art:
Ya need a bigger trailer - the 100 couldn't have even been breaking a sweat with that little load..
The box on this trailer is 4'x7'......I've upgraded the wheels and rims since these pics were taken - larger diameter makes it easier to pull over dead furrows,..
Ya need a bigger trailer - the 100 couldn't have even been breaking a sweat with that little load..
The box on this trailer is 4'x7'......I've upgraded the wheels and rims since these pics were taken - larger diameter makes it easier to pull over dead furrows,..
Dennis and Paul -- Thanks for the confirmation. I have another question regarding the correct mule drive-to-frame hardware for these same tractors. From what I can gather, I believe slotted carriage bolts were originally used for this, possibly with some type of small mounting bracket? Can you or anyone else confirm this? Perhaps someone could post a photo?
Ken -- Yes, I used the incorrect term... the mower deck manual says they were actually 1/2 x 1 inch slotted truss screws. It appears that one of these screws was used on each side of the tractor (along with one hex-head bolt of the same size) to secure the mule drive bracket to the frame. Am I correct? I was initially under the impression that hex head bolts were to be used for all of it. Are there any other mounting pieces or hardware I've overlooked?
mgwin
Well-known member
Kendell,
Now that's a trailer! I hope the smoke in that last pic is coming from your wood stove!
Finally, some progress is taking shape in my 70 restoration. Here's a few pics.
Primed and waiting for paint:
Around 100 parts awaiting their bath in federal yellow.
Painted and hanging to dry.
My parts rack:
This one will have to stay where it is till it's dry!
Now that's a trailer! I hope the smoke in that last pic is coming from your wood stove!
Finally, some progress is taking shape in my 70 restoration. Here's a few pics.
Primed and waiting for paint:
Around 100 parts awaiting their bath in federal yellow.
Painted and hanging to dry.
My parts rack:
This one will have to stay where it is till it's dry!
