Ryan, John, Matt, yes the top photo does depict a 102 dash. I couldn't verify which dash a 71 had so I ran with what the Operator's Manual had.
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Archive through March 20, 2009
- Thread starter kmcconaughey
- Start date
Help Support IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum:
Adam, the top button, item # 9, should unscrew from the rod, item # 5.
Kevin P: Go to your nearest hardware store (I use my local ACE Hdw) that carries the Hillman brand hardware stuff...The "washers" are actually called thrust bushings. They are Hillman part # 58087-A (1/4 ID x 7/16 OD) Thrust Bushings and will be found listed in the Hillman Refillable Assortments Catalog (abt page 97 or so). If your store doesn't stock 'em and doesn't want to stock 'em , you may have to buy the 10 pack @ about .85-.90 cents or so each.
By the way, I went to AutoZone and purchased a 6mm Great Neck deep socket. This is a perfect fit to fit over the shaft and tamp those thrust bushings down into that recess. The Great Neck brand has a deep enough shoulder for this. Some other brands do not.
Myron B
CCSupplyRoom
By the way, I went to AutoZone and purchased a 6mm Great Neck deep socket. This is a perfect fit to fit over the shaft and tamp those thrust bushings down into that recess. The Great Neck brand has a deep enough shoulder for this. Some other brands do not.
Myron B
CCSupplyRoom
I was wondering what your all thoughts would be on these tires. I only have some old turf tires and need some new rubber for plowing in the garden. Plus the turfs had a tough time on the grass on the hilly spots and turning. I could get ag tires but thought about ATV tires too and these seem like a good all around tire that might even work well in the snow without messing with chains. I currently only have one set of rims with 8.5's and I want as much clearence as possible so I found these 25"x8"x12 tires. I know I may have to space up the fenders on my 129 if they rub, but looking at the 23's on there now seems like plenty of room.
So what do you all think?
http://tinyurl.com/c82zvj
Greenball Dirt Commander
25x8x12 8-ply rated (probably overkill, but...)
They also have 26x9x12, assuming I can fit them vertically, would the 9" width fit ok on my rims (mine have the 23x8.5 tires on now)?
p.s. I have found them for about $20-30 cheaper on specialtytiresusa.com
So what do you all think?
http://tinyurl.com/c82zvj
Greenball Dirt Commander
25x8x12 8-ply rated (probably overkill, but...)
They also have 26x9x12, assuming I can fit them vertically, would the 9" width fit ok on my rims (mine have the 23x8.5 tires on now)?
p.s. I have found them for about $20-30 cheaper on specialtytiresusa.com
Tristan S.
I think we need to use Tiny Url so the screen doesn't go wide on us.
http://tinyurl.com/c82zvj
I think we need to use Tiny Url so the screen doesn't go wide on us.
http://tinyurl.com/c82zvj
Sorry Charlie, this forums code is quite different than what I am used to so I'm not sure off hand how to substitute the actual link with smaller text. And that link you provided I am get a site blocked warning unfortunately.
klejeune
Well-known member
- Joined
- Dec 10, 2007
- Messages
- 477
- displayname
- Keith LeJeune
Or, you could use the scripting code that is an option box above the posting box down below. It's a globe with a chain link. Click that and paste your link in there. Then the script comes up in the posting box. Discus Formatting Help Page
When you click the above link, scroll down to the Hyperlink help section. I've never used the tinyurl thing and the forum software has the above option built in and works. Plus the link opens in a new tab or window instead of the same one you're in like some links do.
When you click the above link, scroll down to the Hyperlink help section. I've never used the tinyurl thing and the forum software has the above option built in and works. Plus the link opens in a new tab or window instead of the same one you're in like some links do.
TRISTAN - There's been several people here use ATV tires with very good results. From mowing, pushing snow, plowing. With a little rear weight You probably wouldn't need to run chains in winter moving snow. The rubber in the tread of ATV tires must be much softer than either the turf or ag tires for these little tractors.
Your rear rims are 7" wide, either the 8" or 9" should fit on the wheels but about the only advice I can give on the diameter is "Try It!" The 26-12.00-12 Firestones on the OEM rims measure smaller than 26" dia, Mine on the 982 measure 26" in dia. but only 24" to the top of the tread bars from the ground.
The added dia. does help eliminate one of the problems plowing with a CC, the rearend dragging with the left wheel/tire in the furrow. I really find it hard to believe an ATV tire would be a full eight ply tire, they normally have very flexible sidewalls but they could just have very thin plys.
I'd try them, either the 25-8x12's or the 26-9X12's. If they are too close to Your fenders a Dollar's worth of 3/8" flatwashers will space Your fenders up enough to clear them, You just need them under all four of the rear mounting bolts and the back two on each footrest. The only problem could be when trying to run the center mounted mowing deck. SGT's that used the larger dia. rear tires also had longer wheelbases to clear the mower decks. Your 129 may not be able to clear the gauge wheels on Your deck with the 26" tires, maybe even the 25's.
I personally like the look of real AG tires on Cubbies. I have 23-8.50's on My 72 and the 26-12.00's on My 982. The 8.50's are 2-ply rating and the big tires are 4-ply. I only have to run 6-8 psi air pressure in the 8.50's and 4-5 psi in the 12.00's they're so stiff.
As far as what Charlie & Keith are talking about I have NO IDEA!
Your rear rims are 7" wide, either the 8" or 9" should fit on the wheels but about the only advice I can give on the diameter is "Try It!" The 26-12.00-12 Firestones on the OEM rims measure smaller than 26" dia, Mine on the 982 measure 26" in dia. but only 24" to the top of the tread bars from the ground.
The added dia. does help eliminate one of the problems plowing with a CC, the rearend dragging with the left wheel/tire in the furrow. I really find it hard to believe an ATV tire would be a full eight ply tire, they normally have very flexible sidewalls but they could just have very thin plys.
I'd try them, either the 25-8x12's or the 26-9X12's. If they are too close to Your fenders a Dollar's worth of 3/8" flatwashers will space Your fenders up enough to clear them, You just need them under all four of the rear mounting bolts and the back two on each footrest. The only problem could be when trying to run the center mounted mowing deck. SGT's that used the larger dia. rear tires also had longer wheelbases to clear the mower decks. Your 129 may not be able to clear the gauge wheels on Your deck with the 26" tires, maybe even the 25's.
I personally like the look of real AG tires on Cubbies. I have 23-8.50's on My 72 and the 26-12.00's on My 982. The 8.50's are 2-ply rating and the big tires are 4-ply. I only have to run 6-8 psi air pressure in the 8.50's and 4-5 psi in the 12.00's they're so stiff.
As far as what Charlie & Keith are talking about I have NO IDEA!
Hello guys. well i opened the can of paint i bought for the 129. This is going to look good. so i need only the time to spray the cub. i have 99% of the parts primed and ready. just thought i`d show what I`am about to use. Have a great day .. later Don T
What you all think of the Paint
What you all think of the Paint
When I shut my 10 horse down it makes rhythmic clucking sounds as the engine goes through its final revolutions. I was thinking this may be a sign that some of the bearings are less than tight. She smokes on start up too.
I assume it would be better to do an exploratory tear down. My question is which bearings should I check and how, or would it be just as well to replace everything as long as the motor is out.
I would rather fix things before the connecting rod goes through the crankcase.
thanks
tom
I assume it would be better to do an exploratory tear down. My question is which bearings should I check and how, or would it be just as well to replace everything as long as the motor is out.
I would rather fix things before the connecting rod goes through the crankcase.
thanks
tom
TOM - There's a LOT of rotating parts slowing down at uneven rates when You shut a Cub Cadet engine off. You didn't mention a model but Your profile says You have a 105 Hydro. Most likely culprit is the PTO clutch, there's anti-rattle clips that are supposed to reduce the rattle but My drive cone is so worn I can't keep them in so I let the PTO rattle. You may have a loose driveshaft coupling also. Plus the inner workings of the hydro make different noises when they run slower.
Smoke at start-up is not a good sign, but engine performance & oil consumption is a better measure of engine condition. Best test I've used is the "U-tube Manometer Test" in the Kohler engine manual. The test results really aren't stated because results "Depend" on several factors.
I'd try to wedge Your PTO drive disc solidly into the drive cone, cardboard shims would probably work. Check other parts for looseness. See if You can pin point the source of the "clucking". Remember engines are just air pumps, and when they inhale & exhale they do make noise. Your problem could be as simple as a rusted out muffler.
If You decide to rebuild Your K241 I would definitely replace the conn. rod, exh. valve, piston & rings if You bore the engine out, or just the rings if You don't bore the engine. The rod bearing is just a surface coating on the die cast conn. rod. Available in std size (1.500") and .010" Undersize, 1.490". You will have to have a machine shop grind Your crankshaft to eliminate taper and out-of-round on the rod throw. Measure the rod & crankshaft before buying any parts.
The only "Bearings" in a K241 are the ball bearing main bearings, and the rod bearing. Everything else is a bushing. Your K241 won;t have the balance gears. I've been around Cub Cadets and Kohler engines close to 50 yrs and I've NEVER heard of a ball bearing main bearing going bad. I've heard of a few people replacing them but they just don't wear out!
If You have more questions ask away..... I have a K241 engine torn apart on the engine stand now waiting for $$$$$ for parts.
Smoke at start-up is not a good sign, but engine performance & oil consumption is a better measure of engine condition. Best test I've used is the "U-tube Manometer Test" in the Kohler engine manual. The test results really aren't stated because results "Depend" on several factors.
I'd try to wedge Your PTO drive disc solidly into the drive cone, cardboard shims would probably work. Check other parts for looseness. See if You can pin point the source of the "clucking". Remember engines are just air pumps, and when they inhale & exhale they do make noise. Your problem could be as simple as a rusted out muffler.
If You decide to rebuild Your K241 I would definitely replace the conn. rod, exh. valve, piston & rings if You bore the engine out, or just the rings if You don't bore the engine. The rod bearing is just a surface coating on the die cast conn. rod. Available in std size (1.500") and .010" Undersize, 1.490". You will have to have a machine shop grind Your crankshaft to eliminate taper and out-of-round on the rod throw. Measure the rod & crankshaft before buying any parts.
The only "Bearings" in a K241 are the ball bearing main bearings, and the rod bearing. Everything else is a bushing. Your K241 won;t have the balance gears. I've been around Cub Cadets and Kohler engines close to 50 yrs and I've NEVER heard of a ball bearing main bearing going bad. I've heard of a few people replacing them but they just don't wear out!
If You have more questions ask away..... I have a K241 engine torn apart on the engine stand now waiting for $$$$$ for parts.
Dennis - I keep forget about clearence with the mower deck with the larger tires... I guess maybe I'll just have to get another cub so I can have a seperate mower and garden tractor! I was thinking the larger tires would help too if I get a cultivator and run it through the garden as the plants start to grow for weed control - the higher I can get the tractor the longer I can weed it with the cultivator. Of course were only taking like 1.5" of actual clearance between 23" and 26", that might be the difference of 1 week for plants I guess.
I do like the look of the ag tires just as well but just exploring my options... I tend to do things a little different folks usually say.
I found out another pair I'm looking into the Interco Vampire EDL and ASX.
The EDL is extra deep lug:
43/32" tread for the 25" and 26" sizes (the 28x10x12 actually has a full 2" of tread!) 4ply
The ASX has lugs that wrap around the sidewalls:
ASX appears to only be available in 26x9.50x12 and 26x13x12 (7"/10"rims), 4 ply. And the 13" is 1" tread depth but the 9.5" is only 26/32".
I dunno maybe I'll go for the firestones but my local dealer wants $100 ea which seems kind of pricey.
I do like the look of the ag tires just as well but just exploring my options... I tend to do things a little different folks usually say.
I found out another pair I'm looking into the Interco Vampire EDL and ASX.
The EDL is extra deep lug:
43/32" tread for the 25" and 26" sizes (the 28x10x12 actually has a full 2" of tread!) 4ply
The ASX has lugs that wrap around the sidewalls:
ASX appears to only be available in 26x9.50x12 and 26x13x12 (7"/10"rims), 4 ply. And the 13" is 1" tread depth but the 9.5" is only 26/32".
I dunno maybe I'll go for the firestones but my local dealer wants $100 ea which seems kind of pricey.
Richard P,
I think that is the venturi (or maybe throttle bore) size in millimeters (MM).
The 26 was used on 10 and 12 hp (maybe some 14s?)
The 30 was used on 14 and 16 hp engines.
Kraig,
The air hammer method has never failed me. I tore apart a 104 last year that looked like it sat outside for 20 yrs with no steering wheel cap. The nut and the shaft looked like a solid blob of rust. I had to use an air impact wrench to get the nut off. A couple short bursts with the air hammer while lifting up on the wheel with my knees brought it right off.
I think that is the venturi (or maybe throttle bore) size in millimeters (MM).
The 26 was used on 10 and 12 hp (maybe some 14s?)
The 30 was used on 14 and 16 hp engines.
Kraig,
The air hammer method has never failed me. I tore apart a 104 last year that looked like it sat outside for 20 yrs with no steering wheel cap. The nut and the shaft looked like a solid blob of rust. I had to use an air impact wrench to get the nut off. A couple short bursts with the air hammer while lifting up on the wheel with my knees brought it right off.
Todd, it might be that I was using a cheap Coleman air hammer?? I tried and tried with the air hammer to no avail, two hits with a BFH and that special "tool" (5/8 fine thread nut and bolt) and the steering wheel popped right off. Who knows, maybe I loosened it up with the air hammer.
I was so impressed with the results of the BFH method that I went out to one of my parts tractors and tried it and two hits and it was off as well.
Now really impressed with my results I gave it a try on another, much to my surprise and disappointment no-go.
Oh well, 2 out of 3 ain't bad.
I'll try again this spring after a week or so of PB Blaster treatment.
bbrigham
Well-known member
- Joined
- Sep 4, 2006
- Messages
- 1,000
- displayname
- Brendan Brigham
Tom, I'll second the pto or drive clutches. The drive clutch on my 73 hammers so bad at times you would think there's gonna be a hole in the block soon.
Tristan, I like some of the atv tires too. I've lloked at a bunch. Some I don't like cause they balloon pretty good, I think some of that is from the ply rating but I could be wrong...again
I think I will be getting a pair of Swamp Witch tires. The atv tires do have a softer rubber compound than gt tires so you do loose some in life expectancy but I don't know how well they would do on ice, the last Banshee I had was worthless anywhere near ice. It also didn't weigh anywhere near what a gt does either which hurt it. I will stick with 6-12 turfs and chains for snow plowin.
Tristan, I like some of the atv tires too. I've lloked at a bunch. Some I don't like cause they balloon pretty good, I think some of that is from the ply rating but I could be wrong...again
I think I will be getting a pair of Swamp Witch tires. The atv tires do have a softer rubber compound than gt tires so you do loose some in life expectancy but I don't know how well they would do on ice, the last Banshee I had was worthless anywhere near ice. It also didn't weigh anywhere near what a gt does either which hurt it. I will stick with 6-12 turfs and chains for snow plowin.
