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Archive through March 19, 2010

IH Cub Cadet Forum

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Kraig,

Regarding that drawing of the blade setup you posted over in the classifieds, I would expect IH to put those springs there for downforce as you stated, but if that drawing is accurate, that's not what it's doing. In the down position as shown, the spring passes very slightly above the pivot point, so it would be generating a very slight lift in the down position. As you raise the blade, the lift force would very quickly increase as the spring centerline gets further from the pivot. I don't know if the drawing is accurate, but IH usually seemed to be pretty good about keeping that stuff to scale in the manuals.

Jerry
 
Hello everyone Im new here and I wanted to say "HI" and I own two 61 Cub Originals. I am curious if anyone can point me in the right direction on learning more on these Old School Pieces. I just bought my second Cub last weekend and will be picking it up tomorrow. It came with a Mower attch, Blade and a Cultivator or something, it also has fenders and Pull start. Can anyone help me out on getting info and How many of these pullstart machines were made? Thank you
 
Ok I am hopeing someone can answer my post from earlier. Thw last one about the rattleing sound coming from near the front of the motor. If anyone can read my post and give me suggestions on things to check i would appreciate it, as i really need to use the 128 tomorrow.
 
Juan - Welcome! This forum is a "one stop shop" for all the parts, information, manuals, etc, that you may need. the members hava a wealth of knowledge and the FAQs at the top of the page will answer almost any question you can think of. And, the sponsors at the top of the page can hook you up with any parts you'll need.
 
Eric T.
It sounds like your anti-rattle springs in the PTO are gone/broken or wore out.
Or the bearing & locking collar has come loose.
One sure way to tell is to take the pto off, fire it up and see if the rattle is gone.
If it is, it's an easy fix. If it isn't, your gonna have to start looking elsewhere, maybe the balance gears or rod or maybe a piece of the piston skirt has broken off.
Then again you could also have a worn valve.

I guess my question would be. What have you looked for or done to find out already?
 
Matt G.
Man you must buy different stuff than I do from MC.
There's no way you can cut that stuff with a utility knife.
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It's a band saw or nothin here.
 
Charlie- I have checked with front pto on and off it is still there, more promenent when pto is off. it's steady but it doesn't seem to speed up or slow down, when engine is at higher rpm's it quitens down and is almost gone. it is almost like in a car a lifter tick, but instead it's a rattle, sounds like it is coming from near front of engine, checked oil and oil has went from a clearish brown to a greyish/brown color. I really hope it's not major, I really need this engine to last.
 
Eric T.
I've never run into that oil thing before.
I guess I would make sure the timing is dead on.
And also check to make sure that your carb float isn't leaking and putting raw gas in the crank case.
IMO, oil turning that color would mean that you had a cracked head or block and leaking water into it, BUT, we ain't got radiators in these things, LOL

Someone is bound to come up with something here though.
Personally I wouldn't use it much until you find out for sure though.
 
Charlie- I wish I could just let it sit but it's all i have left and i have a yard to do tomorrow, it is the only way i have to make money right now as i am unemployeed, it hasn't lost power runs fine, except the rattle. i know the carb needs a bad rebuild. I really am stuck, i guess i will have to try and use it tomorrow and hope for the best. and if nothing else look for another block to rebuild.
 
Eric, Smell your dip stick, if it smells like gas fix your needle&seat/float, could be just a piece of crap stuck in it. How long did it take for the oil to change color? Whats your history with this tractor? I've heard others talk about a cam shaft with a loose end clearance makes a rattling noise.
 
Juan, Welcome! A book that many of us like is "Cub Cadet The First 45 Years" by Oscar "Hank" Will, published by Hain Publishing Company. Softcover,good text and lots of pictures. May be available from some of our sponsors. Kenneth Updike has also authored a couple that are very good, but the last I knew were only in hard cover and somewhat more expensive. The FAQs at the top of this forum are also full of good info if you decide to get into the nuts and bolts of the subject. A lot of new parts are still available including reproductions and most any thing can be found used. Many people like to get a copy of the operators manual and/or service manuals most of which have been reproduced. Have fun
 
Welcome to all tne Newbies!!!
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I'm just checking in before heading into work this morning. It started snowing yesterday about 3:00 p.m. and now there is at least half to 3/4 inch on the ground. Oh well, I'll still be able to work in the garage when I get home. One more thing. I phoned a fella about a Cub Cadet on craigslist. I left a voicemail and said that I'd take the tractor and pick it up on Saturday after I got off work. I had it bought when he called back and said that he just sold it to someone else from out of state that paid for it with a credit card. He said that, "He has the $$$ before the tractor was even picked up." I didn't bother to tell him of our experience with someone that paid for an item with a credit card and once they had the item they cancelled the payment.

Everyone have a great day.
 
Eric T-- does the air filter look gas stained or like it has been wet from gas at one time?
 
1st- I just got the cub, and the oil didn't change until i tried to adjust the carb to get it from being to lean, and air filter was just plain dirty i put a new one on yesterday. It actually didn't start the rattle noise until i tried following the manual on how to adjust carb., If i remember correctly.
 
Juan,
To my knowledge there is no information available as to how many pull start/recoil start Cub Cadets were made. On the Original, model 70, 71, and 72, pull start/recoil start was standard equipment and electric start was an option, but the vast majority of them were equipped with electric start, however, pull start Originals seem to be easier to find than the 70, 71, 72's, but finding any of the models with a recoil start is fairly rare, especially with a complete or intact recoil system. The model 73 was the first, and only, 7 hp model that had electric start as standard equipment.
 
Jerry M., my bad, the springs are there to help lift. Even says so in the manual.
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I better go edit that post...
 
What's the chance that Eric Thomas' "greyish oil" is a sign that the connecting rod is doing, or about to do, a bad thing to his crankshaft? Eric: does that oil feel gritty??
Hey, Yorkie (#1 123) rejected her "upgraded" auto relief valves. Blew 'em both! (I thought it was just the upper O rings). Old girl's just too powerful, I guess.
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I was thinking the same thing, Frank.....that ain't Metalflake if it's kinda shiny and silver..
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