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Archive through March 18, 2005
- Thread starter bwatson
- Start date
Help Support IH Cub Cadet Forum:
One last fling
I decided to do the driveway down the hill before my wife came home from Madison and drove on the snow, so the dogs and I enjoyed throwing about 8" of the best stuff I've had in years. Dry, went far with the 782 really barking and grabbing into it. What do we need to do to get snow like this more often? Takes all the fun out of it when it is wet and slushy.
I put MM0 into the gas and it seemed to smell a bit less gassy than before. It says the whole container I have is supposed to go into a 15-20 gal car gas tank. Is this about the right mix for Kohler's?
I decided to do the driveway down the hill before my wife came home from Madison and drove on the snow, so the dogs and I enjoyed throwing about 8" of the best stuff I've had in years. Dry, went far with the 782 really barking and grabbing into it. What do we need to do to get snow like this more often? Takes all the fun out of it when it is wet and slushy.
I put MM0 into the gas and it seemed to smell a bit less gassy than before. It says the whole container I have is supposed to go into a 15-20 gal car gas tank. Is this about the right mix for Kohler's?
Brian Watson, electronic ignition
Brian, for you to put the electronic ignition in, did it require pulling the engine and then the flywheel as has been alluded to here before, or did that system take less dismantelling than others?
Brian, for you to put the electronic ignition in, did it require pulling the engine and then the flywheel as has been alluded to here before, or did that system take less dismantelling than others?
I hate being stuck at work on such a fine day for snow blowing, Will not get to have any fun until around midnight when I get home from work.
Right now I am stuck here in Eau Claire and have a 36 mile drive through the snow and wind to get home to cadott. Driveing slow and takeing my time it should only take a hour or so.
I want to go out and play in the snow!!!!!
Right now I am stuck here in Eau Claire and have a 36 mile drive through the snow and wind to get home to cadott. Driveing slow and takeing my time it should only take a hour or so.
I want to go out and play in the snow!!!!!
I just drove up to see what they had at the I & I auction. They have a couple things that tickled my fancy.
Like a M & W Super Snout, a fast hitch to 3 pt. converter, and on the topic of M & W, they had a "Robot" (that was the name of it) thing that was on a J.D. combine, it had something to do w/ live hydraulics. The only Cub Cadet was a Cadet 80. 4 or 5 F series, a NICE 706, a 560, 450, WD-45, and blah, blah, blah. Tired of typing, sorry.
F
farmall gray
Guest
Kent W,
I got the parts to put the oil filter on about 5
yrs ago. IIRC it was close to $100 for everything.
I used all CC/kohler parts and mounted it behind the firewall like on an 1811. It looked like from Steve B's pics, he used the adapter that mounts the filter right to the block. That would be a lot cheaper. I liked the idea
of mounting it remotely behind the firewall to
kind of act like an oil cooler too. Plus, My Dad
worked for a dealership at the time, and got the parts for me as an Xmas gift. I believe Richard C,
mounted his remotely too, but in front of the firewall.
I got the parts to put the oil filter on about 5
yrs ago. IIRC it was close to $100 for everything.
I used all CC/kohler parts and mounted it behind the firewall like on an 1811. It looked like from Steve B's pics, he used the adapter that mounts the filter right to the block. That would be a lot cheaper. I liked the idea
of mounting it remotely behind the firewall to
kind of act like an oil cooler too. Plus, My Dad
worked for a dealership at the time, and got the parts for me as an Xmas gift. I believe Richard C,
mounted his remotely too, but in front of the firewall.
Man!
Did I see someone post a pic of a WHIMPY 7 1/2"???? LOL
And it's still comin down,
Did I see someone post a pic of a WHIMPY 7 1/2"???? LOL
And it's still comin down,
It's clear now, but round 3 is headed headed our way!
Ken and others...
I'll admit that between other 'things', I've been working on an electronic ignition trigger kit. No details at this time other than it will be:
1) inexpensive
2) reliable
3) adjustable
4) using Captain Kirk's Points-Saver as the final drive for the coil.
RE "180-degree firing"- This is referred to as 'wasted spark', and is extremely common on twin-cylinder 4-stroke engines, using a double-ended coil- one end to each plug.
The disadvantage to wasted-spark...
1) plug runs hotter, and can become source of preignition
2) coil operating frequency is double that of normal configuration. Where inductive reactance is a function of frequency, the operational impedance rises substantially, throwing lots of available spark energy into the ashcan... the solution is to replace the coil with a less-efficient (and more expensive, in terms of kit-cost) coil.
3) The wasted-spark event needs to be carefully located so that the intake valve isn't open when the spark goes off. This, in effect, limits the range of timing adjustment. With lots of valve overlap, or hammer-fisted timing adjustment, you can touch off the plug while the intake valve is open. Flatheads tend to not burn the charge completely, and some of the leftover charge will go off in the wasted event, causing the fire to flash up the intake(whoof!), and you'll be picking pieces of your carbeurator out of the garage wall.
It's tricky, and the original Kohler electronic stuff was unreliable. Wish they'd revisit it, but they haven't.
As for the different sensing techniques- Hall effects seem to work nicely (PerTronix uses 'em, and most automotive crank-position sensors are), but they don't like heat, high-frequency vibration, shock, extreme current, or electromagnetic spikes... all common on a K-motor. Unfortunately, they're also costly and hard-to-mount in an 'easy' package, and when subjected to just-the-right electrical conditions, will 'stick' in one state... which is why they're such a PITA in automotive applications...
IR/LED shuttles (like the Mallory UniLite) work nice, but don't like dust, dirt, oil, heat, or electrical surges. They are a tad cheaper, which is a good thing, because they're less expensive to replace when contaminated or fried.
Both hall-effect and optical sensors have speed limitations- they can only switch states so-fast, so when selecting one, the switching-speed of the triggering-technique must be calculated first, so 'ya don't cause it to be an accidental rev-limiter.
All this is the reason why, if you remove the ignition trigger system of most cars today, you'll find an induction coil and reluctor. They don't mind dirt, moisture, vibration, heat, oil, shock, or electrical surges. They're inexpensive, fast, and very predictable... just requires a bit more interface circuitry.
I'll admit that between other 'things', I've been working on an electronic ignition trigger kit. No details at this time other than it will be:
1) inexpensive
2) reliable
3) adjustable
4) using Captain Kirk's Points-Saver as the final drive for the coil.
RE "180-degree firing"- This is referred to as 'wasted spark', and is extremely common on twin-cylinder 4-stroke engines, using a double-ended coil- one end to each plug.
The disadvantage to wasted-spark...
1) plug runs hotter, and can become source of preignition
2) coil operating frequency is double that of normal configuration. Where inductive reactance is a function of frequency, the operational impedance rises substantially, throwing lots of available spark energy into the ashcan... the solution is to replace the coil with a less-efficient (and more expensive, in terms of kit-cost) coil.
3) The wasted-spark event needs to be carefully located so that the intake valve isn't open when the spark goes off. This, in effect, limits the range of timing adjustment. With lots of valve overlap, or hammer-fisted timing adjustment, you can touch off the plug while the intake valve is open. Flatheads tend to not burn the charge completely, and some of the leftover charge will go off in the wasted event, causing the fire to flash up the intake(whoof!), and you'll be picking pieces of your carbeurator out of the garage wall.
It's tricky, and the original Kohler electronic stuff was unreliable. Wish they'd revisit it, but they haven't.
As for the different sensing techniques- Hall effects seem to work nicely (PerTronix uses 'em, and most automotive crank-position sensors are), but they don't like heat, high-frequency vibration, shock, extreme current, or electromagnetic spikes... all common on a K-motor. Unfortunately, they're also costly and hard-to-mount in an 'easy' package, and when subjected to just-the-right electrical conditions, will 'stick' in one state... which is why they're such a PITA in automotive applications...
IR/LED shuttles (like the Mallory UniLite) work nice, but don't like dust, dirt, oil, heat, or electrical surges. They are a tad cheaper, which is a good thing, because they're less expensive to replace when contaminated or fried.
Both hall-effect and optical sensors have speed limitations- they can only switch states so-fast, so when selecting one, the switching-speed of the triggering-technique must be calculated first, so 'ya don't cause it to be an accidental rev-limiter.
All this is the reason why, if you remove the ignition trigger system of most cars today, you'll find an induction coil and reluctor. They don't mind dirt, moisture, vibration, heat, oil, shock, or electrical surges. They're inexpensive, fast, and very predictable... just requires a bit more interface circuitry.
Well we ended up with just a shade over 26", LOL
Dang, am I the only one that got snow this weekend?
Added a few more movies, CLICK HERE
The wife dint want to come all the way out!
Dang, am I the only one that got snow this weekend?
Added a few more movies, CLICK HERE
The wife dint want to come all the way out!
areinholtz
Member
- Joined
- Feb 13, 2004
- Messages
- 10
- displayname
- Art Reinholtz
What are the belt Numbers, or the sizes for the deck, and engine to deck, on a 42 inch deck on
129 Cub Cadet
Thank
129 Cub Cadet
Thank
Art R,
CLICK HERE
CLICK HERE
