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Archive through March 16, 2013

IH Cub Cadet Forum

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Just checked the North Central weather. Looks like Kraig, Art and others gonna get 1-3" snow and poor Charlie gonna get 3-6" real soon.
Charlie, arn't you getting tired of theis gig already ?
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Allen,

It has begun to snow here, and we are scheduled for 4-8 inches over the next 24 hours with wind gusts to 40 mph. It looks as if I will need the 268 at least one more time this year, before it is put far back into the storage unit. This has been a long haul for a lot of us.
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Thanks guys.

Bummer!

I guess I could have checked with parts look up but it's Sunday and I'm having to switch channels between the ACC tournament championship and Bristol.

Busy Busy!
 
Just wanted to throw a pic of my 109 up. Had it for about 20 years and only done pm with no problems. Also have a cc front blade and homemade roller and dump cart. More pics coming. This is a great helpful site, love it
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Tom,

I've had customers that have run the breather tube into their air filter cover backplates and this works just fine. Route the tube to the outside of the filter cartridge.

Dave
 
Hey all - trying to remove the front end off an Original - removed the front nut ANC commenced to bang the pin/bolt out. Moved about flush with the front axle support and doesn't want to go any further. Do I need a bigger hammer or am I missing something here? Thanks
 
Snow?????
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Here in Myrtle Beach SC (weekend off from the salt mine), it's been sunny and warm - at least 70 degrees. I've saw a couple of folks mowing the grass or running a weedeater.

Cub Cadet content: Picked-up a nice 44A deck and sub-frame for a good price from a fellow who lives around here. It's a pity the rental car is so small, one never knows when there are other nuggets laying around ready for a haul back to my basement.

BTW, I'm getting a blast from the past. I've got the deck, sub-frame, deck belt cover and a few other items laying in the trunk of the car, poking through the folded down rear seats almost to the back of the front seats. I've done all about I can do to keep these parts from rattling. It sounds like driving an old truck from the 70's with all those old steel parts making a racket everytime I hit a bump...
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Terry D., it's possible that grooves have worn in the bolt that are catching on the frame holes. You may have to drive it back in a little then try to hold it centered so the groove(s) don't catch as you drive it out.
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Kraig - once more you're correct! Pretty good wear where axle pin rides on axle support - both front and rear. The manual says there's both a pivot pin and pivot bolt. Looks like all one piece to me but maybe it has just become one over time? At least it's out - guess now it's time to hunt down a new pin. Oh we'll - could be worse!!
 
Harry,you need brake material,i can get ,any thing you want,and close by my house,
 
Terry Davis


I think you can use a bolt on an Original to pull the frame together and well leave there if you wish.
 
Mike C - there seems to be some extraneous material on the hood. Was that left there after some PM work? Looks like a tough working 109.

David C - geez, thanks. I'll have to stop by and bring my 169.
 
TERRY D. - Don't over-think this amp gauge mount. Like Larry Carter said, they were common years ago for adding gauges under car dashes. I had 3-4 under the dash on my first car, and they're not as cheap as they used to be but ANY auto parts store should have them or get them. And the "STANDARD" amp gage size is 2-1/16", A search should bring you about a million ideas of where to start shopping for the mounting panel.
You could slso check Autometer, SUN, etc. Thousands of sources.

MARTY G. - Have to agree with the others, nice looking #70. When Dad mounted the amp gauge on the 70 in the shop I'm working on back around 1966, he put the gauge is almost the exact same place as you did. Regardless of where the instruction sheet seems to show where it is supposed to go, getting it AWAY from major lacerations of the knees & shins seemed like a great idea at the time. And We had the same problem with the ignition key on the 70, broke it off many times getting on/off. IH finally mounted the key switch in a recessed cup-shaped "socket" they call it on the 72/1X4/1X5 series. Really reduces the chances of breaking keys.
 
Dennis - I'll check around and see what I find. I agree - shouldn't be too tough to find. Tom - I'll check on replacement bolts. The rear head on that joker is LARGE! If nothing else I'll weld up the wear by the head and cut the threads off and weld on new. Done for today - pulled everything good off the newer O so have extra stuff for the '61. Don't know if I mentioned in a previous post but the PO put a chain drive on the newer one (for reasons unknown) and it chewed the frame really bad. Last, the '61 engine has a std piston while the one in the newer one has NO markings - does that indicate std? Thanks fellas. Harry - you rooting for Gonzaga or the Mighty Ducks?
 
Lewis,

I found two. Here's the before and after pics.
Before:
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After:


255592.jpg


Before:

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After:

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I later added the "correct" muffler.
 
Dennis/All,
Maybe I'm a bit more long legged than you guys, but I always get on/off my Cub Cadet like getting off a horse swinging my leg over the seat.
 
Tom; That's a habit I'm trying to get into. Off is no problem, but On finds me dragging my right hoof between the tower and seat.
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TOM - I wear only a 29 or 30 inch inseam jeans. Swinging a leg over the top of a high backed seat was something I could do easily decades ago, but now requires me to bend my leg and go between the seat back & steering wheel most times. I learned decades ago to NOT try to fit my foot between the seat and steering pedistal. Too big a chance of breaking the ignition key or hitting the gear shift lever and knocking it into gear. It's almost easier to sit sideways on the seat and swing a leg over the steering wheel.

The 72 is the harder tractor to get on/off. The 982 with the big foot rests is much easier, stand on one side and swing a leg over the seat and go.

Actually, the hardest tractor I have to get on is my #1 snow mover, the Super H. 7 yrs ago I put a white IH "Tombstone Seat" on it in place of the old stock 4-bolt pan seat. Here's what I'm talking about; http://www.devonstractorparts.com/product/56+series+cream+vinyl+hyd+will+work+with+mechanical+seat/171

With four inches of foam in the bottom and back, plus the fold-down arm rests with 2 inches of foam padding it's the most comfortable seat I own PERIOD, including my Lazy-Boy recliner. Wish I had it on there back in 1968 when I was running the tractor all day almost every day all summer! But to get the back the right distance from the steering wheel the bottom cushion is right against the bottom of the steering wheel. I have to feed my foot/leg between the seat back & steering wheel while standing on the drawbar mounts, or sometimes the front portion of the operator's platform. I need to make a big tread plate tool box that bolts to the left axle carrier that's the same height as the op's platform, then I could stand on that to get on it. I even removed the fenders 5 yrs ago to make it easier to get on/off. SON won't run the tractor anymore, says it's too hard to get on/off, which suits me just fine. And to think 40-45 yrs ago I used to mount that tractor at a full run from behind and almost jump into the pan seat from the drawbar!
 

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