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Archive through March 15, 2012
- Thread starter hydroharry
- Start date
Help Support IH Cub Cadet Forum:
ok i just had a thought while trying to sleep and my thought was to load my cub tires for plowing the garden this spring. well what i was wondring is it worth the time and efort to load my tires insted of using wheel wights. im just wondring if any one has had better resalts with loaded tires insted of useing wheel wights. thanks guys if u could give me some info that whould be great. ya i think its called cub cadet sydrome were u think of cubs all day and night lol
hydroharry
Well-known member
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- displayname
- Harry Bursell
Bill J - on your deck, if you haven't you will want to remove the idler pulley and then take the triangular support plate off. They can get pretty bad under that plate. The spring for the idler pulley will probably break when you do remove it, and the shoulder bolt may as well when you remove the nut, but if you're going over everything on the deck you just as well replace those small items. The new shoulder bolt will probably have a grease fitting on it so you can grease it at least once a year.
I've never heard of using the expoxy that Don T mentioned but it might be a good idea as well. Some guys don't put the belt cover back on because it's easier to just blow the grass off after using it. On the under side, I'd use a good primer and then the slip plate. I've had good success with it on decks as well as the auger and housing on snow throwers. I use to re-coat it each year at the end of the season and it didn't take much to cover the wear area. Good luck with it. Should be a nice solid deck when you're done.
Jessy G - I'm not a plow guy so I won't address loading your tires, but I will say what you're suffering from is
"Yeller and White FEVER"!!!!!
Hydro Harry
Old Cubs Never Die
I've never heard of using the expoxy that Don T mentioned but it might be a good idea as well. Some guys don't put the belt cover back on because it's easier to just blow the grass off after using it. On the under side, I'd use a good primer and then the slip plate. I've had good success with it on decks as well as the auger and housing on snow throwers. I use to re-coat it each year at the end of the season and it didn't take much to cover the wear area. Good luck with it. Should be a nice solid deck when you're done.
Jessy G - I'm not a plow guy so I won't address loading your tires, but I will say what you're suffering from is
"Yeller and White FEVER"!!!!!
Hydro Harry
Old Cubs Never Die
DON T. - The Customer Service Manager and I are almost on a first-name basis now at my Internet service provider. After I suffered thru the first five weeks of getting booted off, slow connections, etc I went back and demanded they activate my old 3G device and return me to Unlimited data access like I had. They flat out refused. I've been back twice now with device problems. It works O-K for an hour, maybe two, sometimes three, then spits me off.
In all fairness, the service does seem to be better now than a couple months ago. But still not sure it's worth twice the money.
BILL J. - Like Harry says, I'd remove the idler, then all three of the spindles. There's a 1/4" thk steel plate on top of the actual deck housing and since you're so close you may as well remove that 1/4" plate and check for rust on it and the deck housing. Remember how the spindles go back together.
Water can easily be trapped between the deck housing and that plate causing rust. All that grease is a great rust preventative! I've had so-so results with Slip-Plate, I'd spray 2-3 heavy coats on a deck and after a year's use there would be bare steel showing in some spots. And grass still stuck in most spots. I've heard some guys use POR-15 with good results. I also think Fiverglass resin would work well too, it dries very hard & slick. Biggest thing I;ve found to keep decks clean is to NEVER mow wet or damp grass. If I walk thru the grass before mowing and the toes of my boots get damp I wait another hour to mow. The dry clippings actually clean the underside of the deck.
In all fairness, the service does seem to be better now than a couple months ago. But still not sure it's worth twice the money.
BILL J. - Like Harry says, I'd remove the idler, then all three of the spindles. There's a 1/4" thk steel plate on top of the actual deck housing and since you're so close you may as well remove that 1/4" plate and check for rust on it and the deck housing. Remember how the spindles go back together.
Water can easily be trapped between the deck housing and that plate causing rust. All that grease is a great rust preventative! I've had so-so results with Slip-Plate, I'd spray 2-3 heavy coats on a deck and after a year's use there would be bare steel showing in some spots. And grass still stuck in most spots. I've heard some guys use POR-15 with good results. I also think Fiverglass resin would work well too, it dries very hard & slick. Biggest thing I;ve found to keep decks clean is to NEVER mow wet or damp grass. If I walk thru the grass before mowing and the toes of my boots get damp I wait another hour to mow. The dry clippings actually clean the underside of the deck.
JESSY, It was a money thing for me, the cub wieghts are 2 bucks a pound, (about). A gallon of -32 windshield washer fluid was $1 a gallon. I think I put 8 or 9 gallons in my 12x12x26. If you figure 8 pounds a gallon for the fluid thats Somewhere between 128 and 144 pounds for 17 to 19 dollars with tax.
JESSY G. - re Loaded tires & plowing. Most people put fluid in their tires for plowing. Anythng from RV antifreese, windshield washer fluid, used car antifreeze, Calcium chloride solution, even BEET juice. CaCl & beet juice, called Rim Guard are heavy, beet junce is not supposed to be corrosive, CaCl is very corrosive, antifreeze & WWF not so corrosive but lighter in weight.
For small tires, the 6-12's I wouldn't bother, they only hold 3-4 gallon, a 23-10.50 tire holds 5-7 gallon, same weight as 3 wheel weights, a 23-8.50 is a toss-up, they hold 4-5 gallon, about the same as two wheel weights.
Many people run fluid in tubeless tires, I would not, any leak in the tire or valve stem leaks the fluid out.
I've never run fluid in any CC tire, and last summer I removed the 57 yr old inner tubes from my Farmall Super H that had Calcium Chloride in them, and installed new tubes with NO fluid, I also sand blasted 57 yrs of old paint & rust from the CaCl off and repainted them, so now NONE of my tires have fluid. I have six pair of CC rear weights, 3 pair on the 982, two pair on the 72, & a pair on the 70, and have two pair, 300# per pair on the Super H and 3 pair, total of 900# on the Farmall M. The M has NEVER had fluid and after 61 yrs the rear rims still look like new, the Super H's have lots of rust pits around the valve stems where they seeped fluid for 50+ yrs. Not sure when the Super H got it's CaCl fluid installed but there were signs of rust 44 yrs ago when Dad bought it.
For best plowing you need some weight, 1-2 pair of wheel weights, and either lugged tires or turfs with chains. Also not a bad idea to run an extra wheel weight on the left rear wheel, the land wheel as it's called because the angle of the tractor puts extra weight on the furrow wheel, plus it always gets great traction in the furrow where the land wheel is lighter plus has dry loose dirt to find footing in.
For small tires, the 6-12's I wouldn't bother, they only hold 3-4 gallon, a 23-10.50 tire holds 5-7 gallon, same weight as 3 wheel weights, a 23-8.50 is a toss-up, they hold 4-5 gallon, about the same as two wheel weights.
Many people run fluid in tubeless tires, I would not, any leak in the tire or valve stem leaks the fluid out.
I've never run fluid in any CC tire, and last summer I removed the 57 yr old inner tubes from my Farmall Super H that had Calcium Chloride in them, and installed new tubes with NO fluid, I also sand blasted 57 yrs of old paint & rust from the CaCl off and repainted them, so now NONE of my tires have fluid. I have six pair of CC rear weights, 3 pair on the 982, two pair on the 72, & a pair on the 70, and have two pair, 300# per pair on the Super H and 3 pair, total of 900# on the Farmall M. The M has NEVER had fluid and after 61 yrs the rear rims still look like new, the Super H's have lots of rust pits around the valve stems where they seeped fluid for 50+ yrs. Not sure when the Super H got it's CaCl fluid installed but there were signs of rust 44 yrs ago when Dad bought it.
For best plowing you need some weight, 1-2 pair of wheel weights, and either lugged tires or turfs with chains. Also not a bad idea to run an extra wheel weight on the left rear wheel, the land wheel as it's called because the angle of the tractor puts extra weight on the furrow wheel, plus it always gets great traction in the furrow where the land wheel is lighter plus has dry loose dirt to find footing in.
afoes
Active member
Excellent cub day, three gardens tilled and ready for planting.
hydroharry
Well-known member
- Joined
- Jul 22, 2007
- Messages
- 4,468
- displayname
- Harry Bursell
Arvin F - kinda quiet on here so I think everyone else must be out tilling their gardens as well. Yours is looking great there, and the 582 is looking like a tough clean tractor. Do you have a spring assist for lifting the tiller or is it straight strongarm?
Hydro Harry
Old Cubs Never Die
Hydro Harry
Old Cubs Never Die
Got a problem (not unusual). When I reinstalled the PTO on my K321, it binds (I assume it's supposed to turn freely on the crankshaft when not engaged). I did not change the bolt settings when I removed it so I can't figure out what is wrong. Neither the owners manual for the 1450 or the Kohler K321 manual mentions anything about a PTO, let alone an adjustment procedure. I assume it's the same as the 682/782. Can anyone tell me why this is binding?
afoes
Active member
Harry,
Spring assist and then it is still a strong arm that is needed to get that tiller up. This tractor was repowered with a sweet running B&S 18 HP. I sometimes marvel at all of the timing and electrical issues that seem to surround some of the other tractors. I basically change oil, filters, plugs once a year and use low ash oil and use the highest octane fuel I can get with Stabil as a additive. I also added a creeper to this tractor which expanded it's working abilities
Spring assist and then it is still a strong arm that is needed to get that tiller up. This tractor was repowered with a sweet running B&S 18 HP. I sometimes marvel at all of the timing and electrical issues that seem to surround some of the other tractors. I basically change oil, filters, plugs once a year and use low ash oil and use the highest octane fuel I can get with Stabil as a additive. I also added a creeper to this tractor which expanded it's working abilities
