Archive through March 14, 2010

[digger]

Allen S.
You just had to make me open a new box dint ya!

 

[fcurrier]

I'm feeling pretty lucky. Had to go to town to do some running around and stopped at VIP Auto for some Super Clean (didn't want to go to Wally's). Stumbled on this

$19.99 when I'd been expecting $29.99. Life is good!

(Living in the Lower 48, not far from the Canadian border).

 

[kide]

I'm not sure if that's the same kit I used on my 48" deck on the 129, but it sure was an improvement over the "turf slicer" skids that came on it. I used the kit for the leading edge w/the ball wheels and made my own set for the trailing edge from angle iron w/standard L&G gauge wheels...works really well - a worthwhile update..

 

[dfrisk]

KENDELL - I don't think MTD ever made a kit for the old IH decks, like the 38,42, or 48". The weld-on brackets from the 44/50" could be used, but allowances would have to be made.

My old 38" deck had the available rear gauge wheels on it when I got it, but nothing else, not even the end cover on the left side. I've made a few "modifications" since then, including the spherical gauge wheels on home-made frt mounts. Like you say, VERY worthwhile update!

Ohhhh, and with the nice warm (low 50's) weather and some rain I have NO snow left in the yard except for a small pile left where I pushed it together with the loader a couple months ago. I should be doing yard clean-up by mid to late this week.

Am I making you miss the 129 more now Kendell?

 

[mmiller]

Thanks for the comments Charlie and Dennis.

Dennis, I'm not averse to using tubes, but I am averse to buying things I don't need. My Original will be a trailer queen; the hardest work it will see is driving off the trailer to the parking area at the fairgrounds. Of course the question assumes the tire is mounted on a good rim. I have bead blasted mine inside and out and repainted; no rust, pitting, bends, etc., so that's not a problem. That said, I've seen some chinese tires that wouldn't stay inflated on a good rim; hence the question.

 

[aschumacher]

Ahhhh, now I see, 'wheels and bolts also available'....<font size="-2">(I still think they should have suggested mounting some sort of wheel in the instructions, even if that is the purpose of the brackets). </font> Sorry about the extra work Charlie.

 

[wsteffens]

I cant figure out how to search this forum effectively. A few weeks ago someone posted a picture of a shifter cup area for me. I was having trouble with my 108, I lost all gears last winter and most suggestions said it was in the cup. I finally got into the cup and dont see anything wrong, but dont really know what I'm looking for either.

 

[dfrisk]

Michael - The last 4.00/4.80 x 8 tubes I bought were about $6-8/each, local Blain's Farm & Fleet. Also made in China, other tire shops possibly cheaper. If You don't have old tubes to install I'd get new tubes. I've used 30-40 yr old tubes even with patches with great success. One of the frt tires on my 72 has three patches on it. The 42 yr old tires are falling apart, but when I put new tires on I'll reuse the old tubes. I got a L-O-T of practice patching tubes & fixing tires as a kid on the farm. Front tires have to withstand a lot of force trying to push the tire beads off the bead of the wheel when making sharp turns.

I hate to bring up IHC's FARMALL Plant again, but I was tire buyer there for three years. Even with brand new wheels & tires, and people who mounted 300 tires a DAY, We had 3-5% slow leakers on tubeless frt tires. On the rear tires, We used three sizes of tubeless tires, two rather high volume, and the percentage of leakers was about 2-3%. No tube-type frts were used, but on all the other tube-type rears the percentage of leakers was a fraction of one percent. Biggest complaint We heard from customers/dealers was the fact we used tubeless tires at all.

 

[cgraninger]

Donald, Luther, and Ken,
Thank you all for your help.
I think I got it fixed.
Considering the engine over rev destroy itself scenario; I thought I'd ask before calling it good.

Got the screw back in and started engine.
Slowly ramped up throttle and towards wide open, no load. I saw the governor arm moving to back it down some.
Good sign I thought. But then again, I'm an electrician not an engine mechanic.
Trying to learn engine stuff, but right now I know enough to be dangerous.
Thanks for you help,
Have a good week working, fishing or whatever.

 

[dtanner]

Jim Patchett
Thanks for that link! I did look but did not get the same page that does let me see how to make a bracket for the wheels on my 44" deck. Thanks a bunch for that.

Thanks guys,I see more posting and I like that.

Dennis F.
I have to agree on the tubes. I dang things will go flat tubeless. Tubes are the way to go as just a stick caught between the rim and the tire will cause a flat btdt.

Charlie
Thanks I guess I will have to make the brackets cause I don`t live in the lower 48,but that cool cause Frank will forward them lol

 

[dtanner]

Wayne Steffens
Had my shifter cup come apart also. I`am sure someone here can give you the heads up on the repair. I think there is a small tack weld to hold it up in place to load the spring in there. I just have never got around to repairing mine.search shifter cup and see what you get. good luck

 

[dtanner]

charles graninger
btdt I rebuilt a 149 engine and well when I was ready to install it I found that pin under my grease rag.

Since the governor was the first piece that was to be installed I had to use the brain to find a way to get it to sit back for the pin.Winding the K backwards did the trick for me. I`am glade you got it sorted out. This IS a great site .

 

[mmiller]

Dennis,
your point about turning force against the bead makes sense; I'll get some tubes.

 

[dtanner]

Kendell Ide
Your post earlier show a Grey tank on its side behind your Cub.I have the same style tank here off a oil water heater. They make a great lawn roller and do plan on getting to it some day.

All Originals Came with tubes!
maybe the rubber was not closed grain.

 

[kide]

Anything I've bought in the last 10 years with inflated tires leaks, tubes or not. I suspect the Schrader valves the Chinese use are part of the issue. If they'd use nitrogen instead of plain air, maybe they'd leak less.

Don:
That's a water tank - I wanted to see why the rubber bladder leaked on it, tried pulling it out for about 15 minutes. I quit that, chained the tank to a tree, c-clamp to the bladder, chained to the 129, let 'er rip...kinda like calf pulling..Cubs have more uses than you can name... The bladder leaked because there was a buckle in the joint where the two halves of the tank were welded together. I failed to keep enough air in the tank and the extra expansion and contraction of the bladder rubbed a hole in it..

 

[dross]

Scott R, If you have the QT mule drive for the 105 you can use it. Just pull the pin out at the bottom of the mule drive that holds the sub-frame for the mower deck. Use the sub-frame for the deck you have. Not trying to muddy the water but a QT is handy.

 

[sreinbolt]

Dave: If I understand this right, you're saying I can use the mule drive from the 105, attach it to the sub-frame from my 71 and I'm good to go? I appreciate your help.

 

[jbaker]

Wayne s it was back on feb 14 that we where talking about your shifter problem I did find a pic of the shift forks I posted but did not see the cup. go to search button then click on it type in your name at the top then click on the look in box and select names of authors then click on numbers of days put in 60 and then search away

 

[dross]

Scott, yes, I have went the other way and put a Qt subframe/deck on a 100 so yea. It should go for you.

 

[tsdeese]

whats the best way to remove the rear axles from an original? any help is appreciated.