glippert
Well-known member
Lewis and Tom - Thanks for the bad pun chuckles before bedtime.
-
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Archive through March 13, 2011
- Thread starter glippert
- Start date
Help Support IH Cub Cadet Forum:
hey guys. i'm looking for pictures of some parts for a full soft windbreaker cab for a quietline. i need a picture of the mounting bracket that goes between the windshield and the cross brace on top of the dash. also need pics of the bottom door hinges, the door latches/keepers and how the roof goes on. thanks
Nick J.
Go to the topics section, scroll down to the bottom, click on the Manuals section and download the installation Manual.
Go to the topics section, scroll down to the bottom, click on the Manuals section and download the installation Manual.
Jeremiah-
I've never had any problem with a Stover nut messing up bolts. I've worked with several ql engine rails and always use the bolts/nuts that they have. I use nylock nuts regularly as well and have never had either fail.
I've never had any problem with a Stover nut messing up bolts. I've worked with several ql engine rails and always use the bolts/nuts that they have. I use nylock nuts regularly as well and have never had either fail.
Morning Denny !
Well i`am better but no wheres near back to no pain. My wife had me out for a drive yesterday and the rough roads around here put me back on meds. Today I feel better but won`t push it at all. I guess Cubs will have to Waite .I have to say thanks for all the well wishes and emails . NUTS lol I see they got covered and drive shafts as well. The drive shaft I saw
really scares me and looks like an accident waiting to happen.Nylox nuts don`t work well were they will get hot I know .Cub cadet drive shafts that are on our cubs are not a problem ,if maintenance is done on them. my loader has had " hard"usage on the drive shaft and I have only replaced the flex coupling that was ripped up once in three years. I don`t think that`s to bad for the abuse it takes. I know that drive shaft was never designed for what I put it through. The CV drive shaft I put on my diesel is working out great so far , no problems to date. I don`t understand why someone would say the diesel causes more problems because of the pluses of the engine. The drive shaft is turning a gear pump and the hytran will absorb a lot of pulses created by the diesel or any engine.Most of the cubs I have bought have the original flex coupling still in place and I have not replaced them. If not overtightened they will last and not be an issue.I think IH did a great job in the design of these tractors and really built them well, heck we are using them for all kinds of jobs that they were not designed for ( my 129 loader for one). The fact that it takes the abuse is a testimony to how they are designed and built. Support our sponsors and keep this site going so others can enjoy these great tractors. Have a great day !
Well i`am better but no wheres near back to no pain. My wife had me out for a drive yesterday and the rough roads around here put me back on meds. Today I feel better but won`t push it at all. I guess Cubs will have to Waite .I have to say thanks for all the well wishes and emails . NUTS lol I see they got covered and drive shafts as well. The drive shaft I saw
K
kpeaney
Guest
Don, good to hear from you.
As far as Cub drive shafts, mine 108 had a new clutch installed shortly before I got it. I haven't had any issues, but I don't work it as much as you all do. Heck, even my blue tractor has a similar shaft. Must have been a pretty good design for others to go the same route.
As far as Cub drive shafts, mine 108 had a new clutch installed shortly before I got it. I haven't had any issues, but I don't work it as much as you all do. Heck, even my blue tractor has a similar shaft. Must have been a pretty good design for others to go the same route.
Morning DON!
MATT - Yes, several models of green tractors used a u-joint to couple the engine to the 15U hydro unit and the drive shafts are rather short lived. My Buddy got a new 317 around 1982 and I think he's on driveshaft #4 now. And they're expensive, well over $100 now. And from what it seems the new ones available now last about half as long as the original ones did.
Torque retention lock nuts, either nylock or Stover-type deformed thread versions are single, maybe two use fasteners. Even the bolts should be replaced with the Stover-type, not required on the Nyloc applcatons. Nylocks should not be used where heat is present. The heat softens the nylon and they lose their grip on the bolt. Even Lock-Tight shouldn't be used in hot applications. Split typelock washers, or in some cases internal or external lock washers work good in some applications. But on rag joints I'd use a flat washer against the rag joint and a split type lock washer against the falt washer. Plus there's also safety-wire and on some applications a small stamped flat plate is used to secure nuts & bolts where the corners are bent up against a flat on the hex head nut/bolt.
DAVE KIRK - Thanks for explaining the science behind carb selection. It's interesting the way different engines respond to different carb sizing. The last "Big Truck" I drove really wasn't THAT big, had a 478 cid V-8 gasoline engine, IHC of course. It really wasn't "Governored" like some truck engines with a maximum speed governor. It was just choked down with this silly-looking 2 bbl HOLLEY carb like you'd expect to see on a small less than 300 CID V8, 283 Chevy, 289 Ford, etc. That engine would pull like a locomotive to about maybe 2000 RPM (no tach) maybe a bit more, then you kept your foot to the firewall for a while longer and let it spin up to 3000-3200 and shift up a gear in the straight 5-speed. RPM's drop to about 2000 again and you let her spin up to 3000+ again. No vacuum gauge but I'm sure it was pulling 6-8 inches of vacuum at full throttle @ 3000 rpm. I was always amazed that the tiny 1/4" OD fuel line could flow 20 gal of gas an hour running 60-62 MPH when I was getting from 3 to 3-1/4 MPG. Expensive truck to run now days!
MATT - Yes, several models of green tractors used a u-joint to couple the engine to the 15U hydro unit and the drive shafts are rather short lived. My Buddy got a new 317 around 1982 and I think he's on driveshaft #4 now. And they're expensive, well over $100 now. And from what it seems the new ones available now last about half as long as the original ones did.
Torque retention lock nuts, either nylock or Stover-type deformed thread versions are single, maybe two use fasteners. Even the bolts should be replaced with the Stover-type, not required on the Nyloc applcatons. Nylocks should not be used where heat is present. The heat softens the nylon and they lose their grip on the bolt. Even Lock-Tight shouldn't be used in hot applications. Split typelock washers, or in some cases internal or external lock washers work good in some applications. But on rag joints I'd use a flat washer against the rag joint and a split type lock washer against the falt washer. Plus there's also safety-wire and on some applications a small stamped flat plate is used to secure nuts & bolts where the corners are bent up against a flat on the hex head nut/bolt.
DAVE KIRK - Thanks for explaining the science behind carb selection. It's interesting the way different engines respond to different carb sizing. The last "Big Truck" I drove really wasn't THAT big, had a 478 cid V-8 gasoline engine, IHC of course. It really wasn't "Governored" like some truck engines with a maximum speed governor. It was just choked down with this silly-looking 2 bbl HOLLEY carb like you'd expect to see on a small less than 300 CID V8, 283 Chevy, 289 Ford, etc. That engine would pull like a locomotive to about maybe 2000 RPM (no tach) maybe a bit more, then you kept your foot to the firewall for a while longer and let it spin up to 3000-3200 and shift up a gear in the straight 5-speed. RPM's drop to about 2000 again and you let her spin up to 3000+ again. No vacuum gauge but I'm sure it was pulling 6-8 inches of vacuum at full throttle @ 3000 rpm. I was always amazed that the tiny 1/4" OD fuel line could flow 20 gal of gas an hour running 60-62 MPH when I was getting from 3 to 3-1/4 MPG. Expensive truck to run now days!
Nick J.
I guess I don't understand what your really wanting, as the installation sheets actually shows pictures of all the pieces that your asking about.
There's also the instructions for installing the roof there as well.
Your wanting someone to take pics of the same pieces that are in the manual?
I guess I don't understand what your really wanting, as the installation sheets actually shows pictures of all the pieces that your asking about.
There's also the instructions for installing the roof there as well.
Your wanting someone to take pics of the same pieces that are in the manual?
Here's a QL setup, minus the roof panel.
I am in the process of refurb/restoring a Cub Original 9228....thinking the engine was the ever popular 7 hp, bought the kit and apparently it's not...the bore size of my engine is 2.870....standard for a 7 hp is 2.938...went to Kohler and other sites and cannot find any specs for a K-141...which is what I think I have....any help with how to proceed would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks
Thanks
Yeah I'm looking for close up pictures of those parts mounted on the tractor. I think I need to bend my mounting bracket (the one laying in the center of that picture you posted) because when I bolt that on, it tips the winshield way forward
Nick J.
Well bend it back to where the windshield is straight up and down!
Well bend it back to where the windshield is straight up and down!
RICK - K161's had both 2-7/8" & 2-15/16ths in bores depending on spec number and time they were built. IH CC's only used K161, K181, K241, 301,321 & 341's, NO 141's unless a prior owner installed it.
I'd have a good small engine or auto engine machine shop bore & hone the block to the size needed for your piston.
I'd have a good small engine or auto engine machine shop bore & hone the block to the size needed for your piston.
Rick
The K161 used in all the 7 hp Cub Cadets had a 2-7/8 bore (2.875). At engine Spec number (not serial number) 281162, the bore was changed to 2-15/16 (2.9375) the same size as the bore in a K181. The piston and rings available now are the 2-15/16 size (unless you can find some NOS in the smaller size on a dealers shelf) and are the same piston as the K181. Have you block bored to the 2-15/16 standard size and use the bigger piston, unless your guy see's a problem with you block that would prevent boring it .0625.
The K161 used in all the 7 hp Cub Cadets had a 2-7/8 bore (2.875). At engine Spec number (not serial number) 281162, the bore was changed to 2-15/16 (2.9375) the same size as the bore in a K181. The piston and rings available now are the 2-15/16 size (unless you can find some NOS in the smaller size on a dealers shelf) and are the same piston as the K181. Have you block bored to the 2-15/16 standard size and use the bigger piston, unless your guy see's a problem with you block that would prevent boring it .0625.
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