Archive through March 11, 2015

[jlspicer]

Chris,
I echo what Kraig said, Welcome aboard!

Lots of great info here. Take some time to play around and check out all the resources.

 

[dcalkins]

Martin H i like the gaskets ,but i had a problem once ,wiht grounding so i run a ground strap from frame to dash tower ,and from grill too frame ,and i tap all holes and all bolts are very clean . ,

 

[mhomrighausen]

Chris P. Welcome...

David C. As long as you've a good ground then everything is good to go. Today's farm tractors sit upon isomounts similar to the Quietline Cub Cadets only they are much heavier duty. With those gaskets taking away the vibration from the engine/frame hopefully that will give the lights a slightly longer life. One could actually do the gasket addition to anyone of the narrow frames. It really took a lot of noise from the hood vibrating when the tractor is running.

Hopefully this summer I can find the time and funds to make a CAT O three point for Clarence with his rear pto. I can dream up the ideas. Just don't always have the time or $$$ to complete such things. The grill/frame gasket idea came while working on the electric pto clutch on the Keepsake 1650. A V plow for snow shouldn't be too hard if I can find the sheet metal cheap. I may have to visit a slavage yard and get a rear piece from a combine.

 

[cphipps]

Thanks to all, glad to be here!

 

[bwittman]

Welcome, Chris Phipps!

Anyone who can answer:

With some warmer weather in Minnesota, I have started to think about the 782 Problem/Project that sits in my yard. I ordered some stuff to free up the engine, but discovered that the engine is not stuck, so it hasn't been used.

I want to try to start this thing. I am having the carburetor rebuilt, and want to replace all the fuel lines, clamps and fuel filter. What am wondering is what is the best way to clean that four gallon fuel tank that is in the tractor?

I will also clean all the grounds, fix any broken wires and probably replace the ignition and PTO switch. Is there anything else I should be doing to try to get this engine to run?

As always, Thank You in advance.

It has been wonderful to have seat time.

 

[mhomrighausen]

Brian W. White vinegar can used to clean the gas tank. It takes a little longer to breakup any varnish build up but it won't hurt the tank. Rinse with water, use a shop vac to remove any large stubborn particles that don't want to fall out. I think you should call the 782 the Project 782. Sounds so much better and when you say that it immediately puts you in a better mood to work on it than calling it a problem.

 

[jclazar]

Good morning all!

Marlin H - Thank you for the tip on the Quiet Line vibration issue. Your idea of using a .030" material between the cast iron grill housing and frame is something I would consider. Thank you again for supplying a Napa part number for that material also. One area of the Quiet Line I found important in making sure of good ground, is where the fender pan, frame, and negative battery cable fasten together.
On this 1450, I noticed rust between those surfaces and have since cleaned, and I do spray this area with WD-40 every now and again to ensure a good connection. I have a second starter ground cable fastened to the firewall mount on the frame too, ensuring a good engine ground.

On another note, I was wondering if Charlie considered or felt a need to add a "how-to" install press fit wheel bearings in Charlie's FAQ section, respectably for our IH Cub Cadet enthusiasts.

This morning could have been better for me. I managed to bend up a new set of Cub Cadet rims for my 1450, however I still feel the rims will be useable and hold an air tight seal on a tubeless tire. After all, its just a wheel, and still goes round and round, lol!

Many thanks for an outstanding IH Cub Cadet forum! Its great to know spring weather is on it's way! Have a good day all!

 

[hydroharry]

John L - ooh no, brand new rims. Can you tell us a little more about what happened here? Was your problem installing the tire or the bearing? I've always used a wood block around the edges of the bearing for my installation method, but never did like that. I would sure like to see an FAQ for a sure fire fool proof wheel bearing install method (and not end up with wood slivers inside my wheel where I also add a dam of grease behind the bearing).

 

[jclazar]

Hello Harry! Basically, I shared the same train of thought using a 15" x 15" x 2" thick slab of hardwood under the 20 ton manual hydraulic press..... I was installing new 1" wheel bearings. I had a thick, circular piece of aluminum between the bearing and press.

What I failed to do was, {and I'm sure there is more} remove the factory paint from inside the rim since my rims did not come with bearings pre-installed. Next, I did not lubricate the bearing as directed in the manual.

Well, I pressed and pressed away. I noticed on the back side of each rim as if the bead had flattened out some, a slight wave, and a paint crack in the middle of the rim. I was a little surprised and caught off guard at how easy a rim can bend, since it was about a first for me! I wonder since these are the "wide" front rims, that they would bend more easy than the "narrow" front rims...?

Anyhow, long story short, I mounted some nice looking tubeless, Carlisle turf tires and I cant even tell I had any damage as of yet done to the rims. Based on my short coming, I would have to wager that the best way to press a flimsy rim would be from hub to hub? Just wondering is all!

All and all, I'm still very happy with the work preformed! These bearings sure seem to be well installed, and on some amazing condition 1" spindles for this kid's 1450!

Thanks!

 

[jmaas]

Ok I think I know what I am doing but it doesn't make sense. I recently got my first 149.
seller told me it had a new filter and hytran. Filter looks new but I checked the fluid anyway. I loosen the plug on the back of the rearend and fluid is at least to the top of the plug. Do I have the wrong plug? It just has to much fluid? John nera KC

 

[sblunier]

Whatever happened to driving bearings in with big sockets??? Or just carefully tapping them in around the circumference with a punch?

 

[jpatchett]

John M,

Assuming the tractor is on level ground, the fluid should be at the bottom of the plug hole on the rear end cover plate.
I would pull the plug and let the fluid drain to proper level. The overfill should not be an issue, having too much is better than not having enough.

Jim

 

[jmaas]

Thanks Jim. That is what I thought. It just seemed to wierd to be true. It would be hard to put this much fluid in. John near KC

 

[nbextermueller]

It's not hard to put in a bit more if you jack the rearend up and lean it "downhill".

 

[dtanner]

Steve

I still use both methods to set a bearing . depends on there size and location .I do now waste less time deciding how to move ahead. You can only accept a mistake to realize to this now can happen more than once.

 

[dtanner]

Ok : I always wondered why the rear end plug was so high in the cover . ??? HHHMMM the fluid level is a manufactured to the build to a speck for all components to last x number of hrs! the plug is to high . the input shaft at the top of the rear end is half out of a wet condition . and that is at a crawl.

 

[hydroharry]

John L - geez, I would have thought your method would work. If I had a press like that I would have likely tried it too.

Steve B - nothing happened to the old method of using a big socket or a punch. I guess it just depends on the bearings you're installing. In the case of the front wheel bearings used on these tractors I just never thought they looked substantial enough to be using a socket, and I've tried a punch but the bearing usually slipped away to much - so I figured a using block of wood around the edges would be more forgiving and not mess up the bearing. I never experienced the other bead side of the rim flattening or bending. Worst I usually had was the bearing cocking a little resulting in the wheel hub expanding so the bearing wasn't tight - and I'd just use a hammer to tighten the hub back up some and try again using the wood block. I guess I just needed to use a little harder wood block to avoid the little splinters.

John M - there is a question in the information about the hydro fluid level. IH specs out the capacity as 14 pts (approximate US Measure). This is an "approximate" spec, and I think many people may overlook that notation. In my view the fluid level is "full" when its at the bottom of the fill plug - which in my experience is about 6.7qts or 6.8qts, not 7qts. (And my experience is by having fluid running out the fill hole all over the garage floor at least 3 times, maybe 4). I'm wondering if your previous owner just had to get 7qts in there, and jacked the rearend up a little so he could do it. Doubt there was any harm.

The other thing about over filling it - when you check it on level ground and remove the plug and fluid starts running out down the back cover plate filling the gap where the draw bar mounts then running onto the floor - next time you check it you unscrew the final few threads of the plug by hand and get real quick at putting it back - as soon as you see just a little steam of fluid run down the cover about an inch - that plug is back in and you think to yourself - Yup, she's full.

 

[dschwandt]

A 20 ton press to install wheel bearings on a CUB!!! Good grief, talk about overkill!! LOL

Most of my troubles w/WB's has been getting them to set TIGHT in the hub!! LOL!

Either that or the problem I have w/one of my 1450's now is with the inner bearings frozen tight to both the spindle and the hub so that I will probably end up destroying the wheel to get it apart.

Why do some PO's consider long term storage in the mud and water a good idea??

 

[lhinds]

John I am thinking the rear cover could have been changed on your 149 to a cover for a gear drive. The plug in the cover for a gear drive is lower than a hydro IIRC. I would check that before draining fluid down to a lower level. Just my 02c

 

[jamarks]

Cub Cadet ORIGINAL question!
Speaking of wheel bearings,,
Would it be feasible to replace worn wheel BUSHINGS in the Original's with BEARINGS?