Archive through March 05, 2014

[kmcconaughey]

Christian, you probably did not have the engagement lever adjusted correctly for the rebuilt PTO and the wear button was probably still in contact with the PTO when it was engaged and caused it to quickly wear out.

 

[jbaker]

Christian yes poor gap and misalighnment will both eat a pto button

 

[kmcconaughey]

Christian, here is the section from the service manual that describes the adjustment specs.

 

[cstaehly]

It seemed like it was set correctly, I will check it tonight just don't want to lose my last wear button, it obviously worked for a bit as the set screw holes were not lined up with slots in basket anymore, thanks

 

[mschutz]

Christian, BTDT, First time I rebuilt my pto. You just need to check the gap.

 

[kmcconaughey]

Christian, as Jeff mentioned the alignment can cause wear issues as well. With the engine off, have a helper engage and disengage it while you observe it. Make sure that the lever does not go too far off to one side or the other. If it does you may have to shim it somehow to keep it aligned with the PTO thrust button. Not sure if it would help but you could try to "wear it in" so that the thrust button wears the wear button to fit then it might self center.

To do this you would, with the engine running, and the PTO engaged pull back slightly on the PTO engagement lever until the wear button contacts the PTO thrust button so that it can "wear to fit" hope this makes sense. Hopefully someone else will chime in with ideas and suggestions. I have the brass wear button on my #2 Cub Cadet 125.

Under Edit: That was fast, thank you Melody.

 

[jbaker]

yes I must add the brass pto button is worth it by far

 

[hydroharry]

Jeff B - this is cut and pasted from your post on the last thread:

"The second page of Brians post shows IH called it the Quite Line.
Also both of my cub books refer to them as the Quite Line."

I believe you meant "Quiet"

Christian S - the metal thrust button on the PTO needs to be in nice smooth condition, no burrs, etc. If your previous fiber button was wore thru, gone, someone used a bolt instead of a button, then the metal thrust button could be damaged and just tearing up the new fiber button. Make sure you check this as well before you install your "last button".

 

[drglinski]

I bought a new front tire (for the 147) from Miller and went to have it mounted today as it's easier to have it mounted than do it myself...sitting in the tire place hearing the service guys call out vehicle names letting the owners know they are done, then here comes a guy with my wheel and goes "the little tire." It was rather amusing. (but they did a great job IMO.)

 

[sblunier]

Manual PTO's adjusted too TIGHT (air gap too small) can contact the end of the crank and keep turning when disengaged. This causes the button to become very hot and grenade.

Try using just enough button engagement to keep the PTO clutch from dragging when disengaged....the gap will likely be much larger than spec'ed when the PTO is engaged, and that's OK.

 

[rberg]

I have 2 carbs one is a walbro # 4505389 the other one is marked C275369 can you tell what engines they work with

 

[hsimon]

IMHO a quietline is good for jarring fillings loose and shaking up martinis!!!

 

[jbaker]

thanks "spellchecker" Harry

 

[jharder]

I got a feeling it I posted my true feelings on what my thoughts were on a quite line, I would be kicked off this board. But I will not knock anybody that likes them or has them. I am sure There are many that don't like the series of cubs that I do. So it all comes out in the wash. All though it is interesting to see the changes and brochures and advertisement's.

 

[dlbarnett]

Harry B. thanks for hood hinge info, I thought about that upgrade last time but at 4x the cost of the stock one I cheaped out, this time I will buy the QL ones for the 149 and the 169.
I'm not bashing the QL series, I've never owned one, I just think the front end is a bit fugly.
I think the ideal cub would be a wide frame, cast iron slant nose, with 16hp iso mount, large muffler like the 169. easy to work on, lots of power, isolate the engine vibration, reasonably quiet. just my .02

 

[dschwandt]

R. Berg, What size are they? Look into the air cleaner side of them and you should see either a 26 or a 30 cast into the throat. The larger #'s are usually found on the 16, 14 HP engines and the 26's on the smaller HP tractors such as the 10 horse units,

If you could post up some pic's of the air cleaner side I'm sure someone here can nail it down for sure.

Also the air cleaner mounting holes will have a bearing on what engines they are originally for.

 

[hydroharry]

Jim H - hey just let it all hang out and give us the story. I already knew from the hints in your other posts that you didn't care for the Quiet Line units. Not hard to see you're an '82 series guy (your profile certainly gives a hint too). I think you posted you had sold a QL unit not long ago. You know that QL units are like nuts - some people like'm, some don't, Almond Joys have'm, Mounds don't. If I don't get kicked off then I don't think you would either. You might be surprised to find out how many others have had the same issues you've had with them, they fixed'm, got thru them, worked around them, or even sold'm like you. Heck, at one point I remember saying I didn't like the '82s that were red. I changed my mind when I saw one with a decent red paint job and nice shinny tires. If'n ya got Yellar n' White FEVER what can you do with a red tractor?

 

[bwittman]

Harry,

I know that you are partial to the 1x8-9 series. Believe me, I meant no disrespect when I mentioned in my previous post that I thought the Starter-Generator/Mechanical Voltage Regular system is complicated and problematic. I stand by that statement. This statement is not without foundation. Please allow me to explain.

For fifty years, my late father was a General Motors mechanic. Being an auto mechanic wasn't his only trade. He was a teacher, a craftsman, a student of the profession, mentor to many, and had the professional respect of all who knew him. He had relationships with many engineers and service representatives at General Motors and was an adviser to the area training center for many years.

Dad often stated that the best product that Delco-Remy ever produced was the Delcotron alternator. As a kid, I remember hanging around the shop and taking apart and cleaning many a generator for overhaul. He would quip that as long as there were generators, there would be work to do to overhaul them. These generator/regulator charging systems were the best that was available in vehicles up to the early 60's, but they weren't without their problems. I took apart many, and later, even got the chance to assemble a few, but never once did I do what was necessary to properly fix them. Anyone with average mechanical skill can take apart a generator and install a brush kit, new end bushing, bearing and stud kit. It took a craftsman to fix the problem from happening again. Dad would chuck the armature into a lathe and gently true the commutator on the armature. This step was the key to fixing them so that they would last. I never got the chance to do this step, because Dad always said that one could wreck as many generators as could be fixed in this step. I simply didn't know what I was doing. I still don't; nor do I have the lathe.

As for regulators, I made many, many trips to the parts store on my bike to pick up a 'rebuilt' regulator for a charging system being repaired. Replacing a regulator went beyond unscrewing three wires and several screws holding the device to the firewall. The regular had to be matched to the generator output, adjusted to charge and not charge at various RPMs and then some systems had to be 'excited' so that no damage was created very soon after repairs were made. I never learned how to do this, nor did I learn which systems needed to be excited and which ones didn't. Regulators are sensitive to heat, humidity and vibration. These systems worked every second that an engine ran, regardless if where that engine is mounted.

Alternators, Stators, electronic voltage regulators and direct starters eliminated a lot of this kind of detailed repairs. These improvements simplified wiring, were more dependable and longer lasting.

Starter/Generators, and their related Voltage Regulators were used on Cub Cadets and their Kohler engines well into the alternator era. It seems to me that either IH or Kohler desperately tried to hold on to old technology well after its time. Kohler could have gone to the AQS engine well before they did. The technology for direct start/alternator changing was readily available. Was this an IH thing, or a Kohler thing? I don't know. What has been written is that change was difficult for International Harvester.

Brian Wittman

 

[rbeem]

Brian,
Nice write up.
Pretty simple. Mowers are pretty low on the totem pole when it comes to the next technology...and some of these starter generators are still going with no rebuild after 40-50 years.
Others...can be problematic, agreed.

Can't beat the gentle kachug kachug putt putt starting!

 

[cstaehly]

So I went out to garage to work on cub 149 and now no hydro, won't go forward or reverse and nothing working to lift snowthrower, the fluid was low topped it off but nothing, should I change the filter? Am at a loss....air did come out of plug..