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Archive through March 05, 2009
- Thread starter jlhayes
- Start date
Help Support IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum:
I finally can get back to the 104 tomorrow! After dealing with my stupid Blazer and its heater core being clogged to the point I had no heat (and trying to figure it out!who knew?)and having to change out the intake gaskets, I am going to get that steering wheel and column out. I'm going to try something before I outright cut it off. After 3 days of Chevy's over-engineering it will be nice to work on the Cub, so I dont feel like a total clobberhead!
Todd,
Rebuilding the engine on both of the tractors is a given, and so far I have a rebuilt K241 just about ready to go, and a couple of rebuildable blocks with cranks waiting in the wings. The 102 I acquired last summer has had the front end, steering and clutch redone as well, the main thing left is paint and reassembly.
My original 102 has a few more serious issues. In addition to the engine, it will need a new steering wheel and steering box, as the wheel is hopelessly frozen to the steering shaft and the box needs to be serviced. I do have a box for it though, and steering wheels are not too hard to find.
The transmission has a serious problem popping out of reverse, and problems popping out of the other gears as well. I've tried tightening the clamps on the shift rails, but to no avail. I plan to disassemble the transmission, inspect and repair whatever is wrong. I have some replacement gears if they are needed but I'm not all that experienced working on gearboxes, so this will be a learning experience.
The other major issue is the front kingpin, which has worn its way through the bushing in a major way. It will take some serious work to make that right again.
Still, it is a complete tractor and it has some sentimental value, so it might just get redone anyway.
Rebuilding the engine on both of the tractors is a given, and so far I have a rebuilt K241 just about ready to go, and a couple of rebuildable blocks with cranks waiting in the wings. The 102 I acquired last summer has had the front end, steering and clutch redone as well, the main thing left is paint and reassembly.
My original 102 has a few more serious issues. In addition to the engine, it will need a new steering wheel and steering box, as the wheel is hopelessly frozen to the steering shaft and the box needs to be serviced. I do have a box for it though, and steering wheels are not too hard to find.
The transmission has a serious problem popping out of reverse, and problems popping out of the other gears as well. I've tried tightening the clamps on the shift rails, but to no avail. I plan to disassemble the transmission, inspect and repair whatever is wrong. I have some replacement gears if they are needed but I'm not all that experienced working on gearboxes, so this will be a learning experience.
The other major issue is the front kingpin, which has worn its way through the bushing in a major way. It will take some serious work to make that right again.
Still, it is a complete tractor and it has some sentimental value, so it might just get redone anyway.
I have a question about rebuilding the K241. Maybe I am nuts but I have noticed that the K in my 106 and the K in my 104 are slightly different in regards to how the heatshield bolts onto the head and how many bolts actually show through the shield as if I was looking down on it. Did Kohler make any other changes to these K's that I should know about or they basically identical other than that? The 104 is a '67 and the 106 is a '70.
Scott,
The Kohler K241 and K301 blocks seemed to come into 2 flavors regarding how the heat shield is attached. The best configuration in my opinion is the block where there are two studs protruding on the exhaust valve side of the combustion chamber which are used for attaching the cylinder head instead of using bolts. The nice thing here is that the heat shield can be removed to service the PTO or the muffler area on the engine without disturbing the head gasket. I had to use a block on my 129 which uses all bolts, and I have to loosen at least 2 of the head bolts to remove the heat shield covering the muffler. Head gaskets don't like to be retorqued too many times, so I avoid doing it unless I have a real good reason to do so.
The Kohler K241 and K301 blocks seemed to come into 2 flavors regarding how the heat shield is attached. The best configuration in my opinion is the block where there are two studs protruding on the exhaust valve side of the combustion chamber which are used for attaching the cylinder head instead of using bolts. The nice thing here is that the heat shield can be removed to service the PTO or the muffler area on the engine without disturbing the head gasket. I had to use a block on my 129 which uses all bolts, and I have to loosen at least 2 of the head bolts to remove the heat shield covering the muffler. Head gaskets don't like to be retorqued too many times, so I avoid doing it unless I have a real good reason to do so.
- Joined
- Aug 23, 2006
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- Allen Schumacher
Kraig, did you see it ! ?? Don T. finally spelled your first name properly!
<font size="-2">Or maybe Canadian K/Bs are made differently?</font>
<font size="-2">Or maybe Canadian K/Bs are made differently?</font>
dgallagher
Well-known member
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- Feb 12, 2000
- Messages
- 179
- displayname
- David Gallagher
Still restoring my 169. I am working on the hydro and am going to do the trunion repair and replace the gasket between the pump and rear end. This tractor has lots of hours, so are there any other repairs or gaskets I should replace while I have it down? Thanks
Bruce., sentimental value! What is more motavating than that. Looks like you have the parts lined up for your 102's. The closest I have got to an engine rebuild was a piston/ring job on an off topic K-301 about a month ago.
On a side note, I am heading right past ya tomorrow. 50W,97N up to Littlestown Pa. Wish I had time to stop and shoot some bull!
On a side note, I am heading right past ya tomorrow. 50W,97N up to Littlestown Pa. Wish I had time to stop and shoot some bull!
mstetar
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- Jun 26, 2008
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- 510
- displayname
- Matt (Diesel Creek)
wow the odds i just finished my four month motor rebuild about a half hour ago! new cam rings connecting rod gaskets and seals just got to torque the head down. this re-build was especially fun because when i removed it from my 100 i thought for sure it was a K-241 hahah NO. took about a half hour for my parts guy and i to figure out that it was a k-321
mgonitzke
Well-known member
Harold-
No.
No.
SCOTT S. - Variations in heat shrouds abound on Kohler's. They were trying to improve cooling all thru production as the HP increased. Like Bruce says studs clamp the head down the best and if You have double ended studs allow disassembly without effecting the head bolt torque. Capscrews work fine also, I ran My K241 for 1400 hours with only retorquing the head bolts a couple times in all those years, it would "Whistle" when starting the engine cold and I'd have to get the torque wrench out and tighten them all in sequence to spec again.
MATT S. - Your K321 in Your 100 should have the deep sump on the oil pan. K301's also have the deep sump. K241's are flat except for the drain plug. K321's are a good engine, I really like the one I rebuilt and put in My 72 a couple years ago. No shortage of HP where the old K241 used to struggle.
MATT S. - Your K321 in Your 100 should have the deep sump on the oil pan. K301's also have the deep sump. K241's are flat except for the drain plug. K321's are a good engine, I really like the one I rebuilt and put in My 72 a couple years ago. No shortage of HP where the old K241 used to struggle.
My lift arm is stuck in the float position. I have removed it from the tractor, unscrewed the release button and the rod comes out the bottom, however, I still can not get the float button to release. Does the top release button come out after unscrewing the road?
cscannon
cscannon
Allen, funny I did notice that and was pondering it when I read your post. Good thing I hadn't just taken a sip of my coffee!
And here I was just getting used to being Kraiq. In Don's defense, it does look like a Q in the header...
Scott S., have you not found a replacement steering column yet?
Scott S., have you not found a replacement steering column yet?
Christopher, the top button screws onto the rod, the float button is press fit into the handle. Did the top button come out or is it caught on the float button? Did the spring drop out the bottom with the rod? The float buttons can be a bear to get out of the lift handle. Have you tried PB Blaster to get the float button to free up in it's housing? That would be my next step to get it to free up so that the top button can be removed.
Matt S., I assume it had the smaller flywheel and blower housing. Hmmm, perhaps Denny once owned your 100.
Can anyone recommend a good replacement for the original goodyear turf tires on my 782 the size is 23x10.50-12. The 2 ply tires have lasted 30 years so that's all I need.I did not see where there was an above sponsor who carries tires,but maybe I missed one.It seems like the carlyle tires are priced all over the place.I thought there was a good supplier in souix falls, but I couldn't spell it let alone find it again. Thanks, Spring ahead!! john
pscilipote
Active member
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- Mar 15, 2005
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- 34
- displayname
- Peter S
Help - have a 122. Should the lift arms on the implement handle be perfectly aligned?
I had some work done on the handle (welding to build up a worn cross bar where the mower carriage sets on the bar)and now when I put it on the floor (cross bar and lift arms on the floor, handle in the air) it looks like one lift handle is about 1" or so above the floor when the other is resting on the floor.
I am wondering of the guy who did the repair took one of the handles off and welded it on wrong.
Any help?
thank you.
Peter
I had some work done on the handle (welding to build up a worn cross bar where the mower carriage sets on the bar)and now when I put it on the floor (cross bar and lift arms on the floor, handle in the air) it looks like one lift handle is about 1" or so above the floor when the other is resting on the floor.
I am wondering of the guy who did the repair took one of the handles off and welded it on wrong.
Any help?
thank you.
Peter
Kraig,
I was able to get the release button to come out of the handle. It was stuck on the float button. I wasn't sure how it came apart so I didn't want to force anything. I've fixed that and I have replace the input gear on the trans. The roll pin hole was worn so bad that the shaft almost broke. Now I'm off to rebuild the leaking creeper. Any advice???
cscannon
I was able to get the release button to come out of the handle. It was stuck on the float button. I wasn't sure how it came apart so I didn't want to force anything. I've fixed that and I have replace the input gear on the trans. The roll pin hole was worn so bad that the shaft almost broke. Now I'm off to rebuild the leaking creeper. Any advice???
cscannon
