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Archive through March 03, 2008

IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum

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Ken, that's some 1" tubing with nuts welded at both ends and gate hinge bolts threaded in. Found the idea on another forum a few years back. (sorry, don't remember who's idea it was.) Works great and is super strong.

Don, you drinking that Red label out of an espresso cup? Or doing alternate shots to keep awake?

What would cause a Cub to keep killing coils? I've gone through several coils and this one is a Bosch blue like Kraig has on his Killer Kohler. Not sure it's the coil yet as I don't have my meter here at work. I'm going home at lunch and bring back the coil off the 100 and see if it fires. If so, I'll go get another Bosch. The local VW specialist sells them very reasonable. Cheaper than a stock Kohler coil.
 
i was just wondern where the picture of the 149 Charlie has for sale , because i need a good 14hp K for my 149. Jim and i plan to use the 12 from my 129 while its down for the paint and some other repairs.where do you all get the sleves for the engines that you rebuild?
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David K., thanks. The first start is still a ways off in the future but I will have the video camera set up and ready.
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This just in from Dan Bufton in reply to Gary's question on the 782 lift bar dimensions. Thank you Dan!
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my club s # is 351530-67 i need imfo on it any imfo like serviving would help thanks
 
I just went wireless networking
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Keith - The only 2 things I know that kill coils is excessive vibration and maybe hooking backwards although I've ran them with the +/- backwards.
 
Jeff, welcome to the Forum!
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If the S/N is 351530, and you have a gear drive (which I conclude from your post in the "Sandbox" about gear oil) I would assume you have either a 73 a 106 or a 126. The proper fluid to use in the transmission is Hy-Tran.

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Keith
You may want to verify the chargeing rate isn't exceeding 14.5 volts. That discussion has come up before regarding killing coils.
 
Nevermind. I typed before I could look at the Cub. The points wire was broke off from the ring terminal at the coil. I cobled it back together since I'm at work and bladed to my hearts content on my lunch hour. <font size="-2">Was even a little late clocking back in.</font> I took the Cub around to the dock at the back to clean up where our delivery trucks are parked and noticed that both the straight truck and tractor are Internationals. Pretty cool.

<font size="+2"><font face="verdana,arial,helvetica"><font color="0000ff">MAN, THAT WAS FUN!!!</font></font></font>
 
Ken.....thought you knew how to sex a cub
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Ok...we'll open class one more time !

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now i can.t get any gears i think i need to go in the trans anybody got some pics that would help
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Jeff, I don't know too much about gear drives but I do know that you can remove the shift lever easily and inspect the gears. Depending on the exact model you have you may have to remove the fenders if it's a 106 or a 126. If you have a 73 you'll have to remove the seat support section of the frame tunnel. Once you have the top of the transmission exposed you'll want to remove the 8 bolts holding the shift lever assembly onto the transmission. I suspect the shift forks are either bent or broken. Hopefully that's all that it is. Broken or chipped gears are more work to repair.

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Here's what's under the shift lever. The shift forks are the two things on the rods with the bolt in the top. Your's should look like these and not bent apart.

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Brendan, that's great. Just like at home with me, our boy and my wife... and I have the CCO, 100 and the 1450. Include the dog and I really need a 73 now. One for all of us!!

How long is safe to keep a carb in a gallon can of that carb cleaner with the basket? I put it in last night.
 

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