Dennis- I'm not sure which SS materials spec it fits under... I just got it from the 'expensive' bin at the hardware store... but it's definately not flimsy stuff... 304 cuts much easier than this bolt did, and as you can probably tell by the pictures, it didn't cut in any big hurry. My 90ksi WAG was based on comparing it to other stuff that I'd turned. My little Atlas 9 is all belt-reduction, so if it's really hard, it starts complaining. Normally, I wouldn't select stainless, but I wanted the fit so tight that any corrosion would end up keeping the pin from being removable.
Upon contemplating other's comments regarding breaking the pins, I'd think that the majority of pin-breakage is much more likely in a gear-drive application than on my hydro... wrapping up the K and dumping the clutch with lots of wheel-weight, or having a wheel spin, then hook up suddenly would definately punish driveline. Under those circumstances, either a guys' goin' for broke (and damn the torpedos), or you'd rather have something cheap-and-easy let go, than sporting a driveshaft-necktie. But if anyone's really concerned about the loss of an SS-pin vs. the spiral-wrap pin, just drill through the whole U-joint 90-degrees from the set-screw hole, drive in a pin, and call it done.
I think Wyatt asked wether my pins go through and land against the shaft... when I cut the pin, I do it with a curved-face bit, so at the end of the pin, just before the threads start, there's a little radius. When the pin is buried, that radius IS against the shaft. Between that, and the pin fitting tight through the shaft, and into the yoke on the other side, it's definately down tight. With the yoke having about 3x the 'grab' length on the shaft, well, it's not going anywhere.
Yet another note- I suspect that one of the stresses that the spiral-pin is under... is the result of lean and twist that the rag-joint is trying to accomodate. Note that when you run the rag-joint off centerline, it'll allow a crooked-run, but it doesn't do it without putting some stress on the rag-joint yoke, and therefore, the pin. In this U-joint, you can swing it any-which-way, and there'll be no substantial stress put on the pin. Perhaps that's the reason why I haven't broken any pins yet? I dunno.
On another note... let's say you're interested in making some serious meat for your driveline... you can order the same series U-joint yoke with a 5/8 bore on one side, and anything-up-to-obscene size on the other end. If you want to use a 1", or 1.5" shaft... just order the right yoke. They're nice, workable cast steel, so you can weld to 'em if you want.
Capt'n Kirk- I put the cover back on, and set it in the frame last night, but seein's how I had three (1")short-bolts and one long (1.25")bolt, and not sure which-went-where, I didn't bolt it down. Tonight (late) I'll heft it back up out of there, pop the cover off, and see if I can see anything more. Wasn't easy getting that picture, and for some silly reason, my (two) eyes can see that gear so much better than my (one) camera lense. Let's hear it for binocular depth-perception! :-D Other than the gear bein' sloppy, I could flip the weights and spin the gov-shaft, and they'd react to eachother alright... didn't see any obvious cracks, missing chunks, or anything like that... but I really appreciate your response!
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