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Archive through June 30, 2010
- Thread starter mgwin
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Help Support IH Cub Cadet Forum:
hydroharry
Well-known member
- Joined
- Jul 22, 2007
- Messages
- 4,468
- displayname
- Harry Bursell
Aaytay (Art isn't it??) You missed out on my 169 special products unit??? Dang, I can't even remember everything. It'll take me a while to dig it out, and I'll likely have to post bits and pieces. Will that work???
Marty G - now you've confused me on the engine colors. Are you saying you found some pics of the engine done tri-color. I'd like to see a few of those. I was pretty certain IH painted them all yellow except replacements from Kohler. I don't think Kohler painted them for IH.
Hydro Harry
Old Cubs Never Die (unless they are green like the one Marlin posted, but it will be resurrected and repainted properly)
Marty G - now you've confused me on the engine colors. Are you saying you found some pics of the engine done tri-color. I'd like to see a few of those. I was pretty certain IH painted them all yellow except replacements from Kohler. I don't think Kohler painted them for IH.
Hydro Harry
Old Cubs Never Die (unless they are green like the one Marlin posted, but it will be resurrected and repainted properly)
kphill
Well-known member
Hey Harry, When was your built? Mine was built 9/74 late Sept.
kphill
Well-known member
Harry, I just remembered to check on that engine question. There is a block off plate under the starter/gen. It is factory as there are bosses in the casting for the allen head fasteners. The cover plate is about 2"x2 1/2" and I would guess it is a mounting place for a mechanical fuel pump. The engine is all 169 that I can tell and the serial # is 6297615 and the spec. number is 71154a. Here is more pics but I don't have anymore of the right side.
Ahhhh. Gone for a day or two and Gerry sends Me with a funny and I don't even see it. Ohhhh And Gerry, That's enough gauges but I want 2-5/8" Autometers. I can't read those silly tiny gauges without a magnifying glass. Plus bigger gauges dive better resolution. I know some guys with 4X4 diesel pickups with gauges on EVERY oil sump, engine, both axles, t-case & transmission. Pretty common on semi-trucks too.
Harry B. - Don't know what to tell you about reading gauges. When engines, or oil or Whatever gets hot it's working harder than it's supposed to. It's time to give things a break, slow down or stop. Or something is causing it to run hot like low oil, blocked cooling air, bearing going bad, Thousands of possibilities. Personally, I'd like ANY notification that any of those things were happening.
I stand by my statement that all possible DATA or informations is needed. I suspect most broken rods in Kohler's over-heat the oil and start depositing metal on the crank throw or some other failure process before they break. Keep in mind I don't have gauges on my CC's except amp & hour meters, and nothing beyond factory equipment on my diesel truck. But if I was going to push ANY of those machines anywhere close to their potential they would have additional gauges.
JIM D. - I took my RAYTECH IR temp gun to a PD years ago.....Think you had a puller or two in Roanoake that year. I checked Wyatt's & Bryan M's 169's and the hydro's were running 185 to 200 deg. F in the lower front below the hydro filter. My 982 was running 145-150.....not sure why. But yes, A hydro should have a temp gauge especially if it's pulling large draft loads. Wyatt & I discussed it but just not sure where the temp probe needs to go. Most medium duty & larger trucks with automatic trans have temp gauges. But would be a waste of a worthwhile gauge's space on a GD. I plowed for an hour straight @ PD #2 and couldn't feel ANY heat in the rearend of my 72 and there were a couple hydro's boiling their Hy-Tran out, a 169 & 792 with a big B&S engine.
DAVE K. - My Oil Guy must be Your oil guy, blackened oil has been overheated & oxidized. Synthetic oil retains lubricity longer, but gets just as dirty as mineral oil, and you have to change it to clean out the dirt, oxidation, accumulated water, unburned gasoline, etc.
Did You know every gallom of gasoline burned makes five QUARTS of water, most in the form of water vapor, but during cold starts gets past the rings and contaminates the oil? I'm really surprised IH didn't put the the special instruction about servicing a CC's engine more frequently in winter and when used for short periods before it can be heated enough to evaporate or boil the water out. It's been in EVERY car & truck manual I've ever seen.
MATT G. - You should pick up your parts from Dave K next time. He's only about two hours from you.
Harry B. - Don't know what to tell you about reading gauges. When engines, or oil or Whatever gets hot it's working harder than it's supposed to. It's time to give things a break, slow down or stop. Or something is causing it to run hot like low oil, blocked cooling air, bearing going bad, Thousands of possibilities. Personally, I'd like ANY notification that any of those things were happening.
I stand by my statement that all possible DATA or informations is needed. I suspect most broken rods in Kohler's over-heat the oil and start depositing metal on the crank throw or some other failure process before they break. Keep in mind I don't have gauges on my CC's except amp & hour meters, and nothing beyond factory equipment on my diesel truck. But if I was going to push ANY of those machines anywhere close to their potential they would have additional gauges.
JIM D. - I took my RAYTECH IR temp gun to a PD years ago.....Think you had a puller or two in Roanoake that year. I checked Wyatt's & Bryan M's 169's and the hydro's were running 185 to 200 deg. F in the lower front below the hydro filter. My 982 was running 145-150.....not sure why. But yes, A hydro should have a temp gauge especially if it's pulling large draft loads. Wyatt & I discussed it but just not sure where the temp probe needs to go. Most medium duty & larger trucks with automatic trans have temp gauges. But would be a waste of a worthwhile gauge's space on a GD. I plowed for an hour straight @ PD #2 and couldn't feel ANY heat in the rearend of my 72 and there were a couple hydro's boiling their Hy-Tran out, a 169 & 792 with a big B&S engine.
DAVE K. - My Oil Guy must be Your oil guy, blackened oil has been overheated & oxidized. Synthetic oil retains lubricity longer, but gets just as dirty as mineral oil, and you have to change it to clean out the dirt, oxidation, accumulated water, unburned gasoline, etc.
Did You know every gallom of gasoline burned makes five QUARTS of water, most in the form of water vapor, but during cold starts gets past the rings and contaminates the oil? I'm really surprised IH didn't put the the special instruction about servicing a CC's engine more frequently in winter and when used for short periods before it can be heated enough to evaporate or boil the water out. It's been in EVERY car & truck manual I've ever seen.
MATT G. - You should pick up your parts from Dave K next time. He's only about two hours from you.
KEVIN H. - The plate under the S/G in the front lower right side of the block is for a special dipstick, think QL's used that option. Fuel pump went in the diamond shaped hole right under the carb. on the left side of the engine.
fcurrier
Well-known member
- Joined
- Jul 5, 2004
- Messages
- 3,155
- displayname
- Frank A. Currier(Northern Maine)
Kevin, you're a hard act to follow!
Popular opinion won.
I'm going to feel it tomorrow! Lifted the engine out (after taking the PTO clutch off and running it one more time). Had one more bright idea and pulled the grass screen off. Found the reason for the vibration:
Since I was on a roll, and want to mow with this machine next week, here she is with the replacement engine (running in pic) from a 125 that we bought last summer;
I ran out of gas so she's running on chainsaw gas, here. Unlike a guy that I now owe $45, I mix my chainsaw gas 50:1.
Now for the hard part - changing the date stamp on the camera.
Popular opinion won.
I'm going to feel it tomorrow! Lifted the engine out (after taking the PTO clutch off and running it one more time). Had one more bright idea and pulled the grass screen off. Found the reason for the vibration:
Since I was on a roll, and want to mow with this machine next week, here she is with the replacement engine (running in pic) from a 125 that we bought last summer;
I ran out of gas so she's running on chainsaw gas, here. Unlike a guy that I now owe $45, I mix my chainsaw gas 50:1.
Now for the hard part - changing the date stamp on the camera.
kphill
Well-known member
Thanks Dennis..I thought maybe it was driven off a lobe on the crank..
Matt G.,
Thanks for the phone call yesterday - great talking to you also. Glad you gave Steve some assistance with the ignition system install.
Harry B.,
It would be nice to have enough instrument panel space to mount oil and cylinder head temperature gauges, but on a Cub, that's difficult. A tachometer, ammeter, and hour meter are fairly common instrumentation on a tractor. We don't need an oil pressure gauge, cause we don't have any. The K-series Kohler's are well-engineered and highly developed engines that don't really need careful monitoring of temperatures under normal operation. It's the proper "pre-flight" inspection that is the most important - that is, check the oil, then check the flywheel air inlet screen for any debris or blockage.
Dennis F.,
I certainly agree. By the way, my oil contact person works for Lubrizol.
Thanks for the phone call yesterday - great talking to you also. Glad you gave Steve some assistance with the ignition system install.
Harry B.,
It would be nice to have enough instrument panel space to mount oil and cylinder head temperature gauges, but on a Cub, that's difficult. A tachometer, ammeter, and hour meter are fairly common instrumentation on a tractor. We don't need an oil pressure gauge, cause we don't have any. The K-series Kohler's are well-engineered and highly developed engines that don't really need careful monitoring of temperatures under normal operation. It's the proper "pre-flight" inspection that is the most important - that is, check the oil, then check the flywheel air inlet screen for any debris or blockage.
Dennis F.,
I certainly agree. By the way, my oil contact person works for Lubrizol.
