Archive through June 29, 2010

[aaytay]

"We mixed the Cermax in two 5 gallon cans and gave the saw to the people there and 7 cords of oak logs and said burn it up.
Well after 6 hours and 10 gallons of gas, it was still running and is still running just fine today."

So if you've got the time to dump <font color="119911">Cermax</font>. in the gas, why not just use 2-cycle oil like the maufacturer says to do? The real oil has got to be cheaper than that snake....er........I mean.....<font color="119911">Cermax</font>.

Hydro-Harry-
Maybe <FONT COLOR="ff0000">I</FONT><FONT COLOR="000000">H</FONT> left the drain plugs on the gear-drives because an Original would need the rear 3-point hitch (if so equipped) removed to remove the rear trans cover for a fluid change? Also, the later gear-drive tractors could have a rear PTO on the trans-case, thereby making it easier to change the Hytran with a drain plug than by removing the rear end cover.

A Hydro would have neither of these situations.......Clear as mud??

I dunno, just speculation.

 

[hydroharry]

Kevin H - that is a sharp looking 169. Can't wait to see it with the seat and other views.

Roy N - thanks for the tach info.

Nick H - better plead with ole KenTUCK for one of his Pin Tools, or maybe Charlie would loan ya one. You're most like correct about the inside one being there since 71. Most are never changed. With regard to your attempted removal method, I don't know why so many guys always want to put their thumb right where it gets hurt. For me, I just put mine (thumb) on the concrete floor and bang it a few times so it hurts before hand, then during removal I don't have to worry about hittin it. Actually, I have some suspiscion you're lying on your back or trying to work thru the frame cover. If so, you might want to see if you can rig something up to hang the tractor at a near 90 degree angle. You'd be surprised how much easier it is when that pin is about 4 feet off the ground, and you maybe can even sit on a stool. It's also likely the pin has something of an S curve in it, which makes it that much more difficult. I don't have one of KenTUCKs tools but if I ever get back to restoring again I'll definitely want to get one. WHERE IS THAT KENtuck anyway???

David Kirk - oh GREAT ONE of Knowledge. I consider your response quite timely. In fact, just in time for Charlie to know he better change his oil or else. I suspect those marvelous metalic pieces will be scoring his cylinder walls.

By the way, I did ask if you were looking into designing and fabricating some type of oil and head temp gauges that that could be semi-permanently afixed to a CC. Seems there are alot of guys on here that may be interested. I still don't know what they would do with the continous info but they sure seem to think they need it. What are your thoughts??? Is it practical to have mounted gauges??? If so, have you any thoughts of mounting them on your 1250??? If they would provide me info such that I would be likely to shut my unit down just before putting a window in the block, I may just be convinceable that they could be worthwhile. But I am also thinking they really can't be installed into the oil pan or head by some method that doesn't end up having them in the way. Please give us your thoughts here. It's a dangum' debate going on as far as I'm concerned. And while you're at it. Give us your thoughts on the P-I-P-E-R gauges from yesterday or day before.

Now, on your 10W30 oil, I don't recall everything you have done to your K301AQS, but I due recall it's running increased compression, and I believe you also noted hotter temps. Is this the reason for the 10W30 syn??? Less likely to break down even at the extreme temp you might possibly encounter???

And just one more thing - thanks for all the great information you always provide. Maybe with your knowledgeable input and my guts, me and a couple the other old timers on here might just be able to knock some sense into some of these young wipper snappers. Why I remember knocking some of the guys right off the net back in the days BGC. One thing tho, ole KenTUCK has been noticeably absent. I don't know where he sits, I just know he does it alot (hehehe). Thanks again for all your help and keeping us all honest. Your input is sincerely appreciated.

Hydro Harry
Old Cubs Never Die (and alot of guys on this site never give'm any rest neither)

 

[bproctor]

Harry & all interested in oils and viscosity's.

<u>www.upmpg.com</u>
On the right side about half way down, there is a section that says "for more information see". A lot of good reading but "Motor Oil Viscosity Grades" helped explain a few things for me.

No! I'm not an Amsoil salesman. Never used it! Just some info so you can cuddle up next to your warm engine and read.

 

[T-Mo]

I took some more pictures of some of my Cub herd. Not shown is a 2135 and a 123.

 

[bproctor]

looks good to me Terry

Mine don't seem to be breeding as well as yours. I have some good stock though!

 

[dtanner]

Terry Reed

How do you get all them tractors in that one shed?
I have one 12' x16' shed and a 28' x 30' garage and i`am building another 12' x 16' shed for tractor storage.I have decided not to buy anymore tractors for some time. lol

 

[fcurrier]

Don: That shed just looks small -- it's 20 meters long.

 

[dtanner]

Frank A. Currier(Northern Maine)

Frank 20 meters is 20 x 39" and that is 78'. wow that some shed. Ok so they all would fit in there and all my Cubs also

 

[T-Mo]

Don,
That's just one of 3 sheds that I used to store them. That one is 10 x 13, I also have a 12 x 16 and a 5 x 8 shed. My plan is to build a pole barn when I can find the money to do so.

 

[kide]

I think KENtuckyKEN went on a fishin' trip to New Joisey....last I saw he was checking Google...

 

[jbaker]

naw to many yankee fish there for Kentuck.

Roy I cant find that tach meter for less than 25 plus shipping.

Kevin H all I can say about your 169 is

 

[kphill]

Thanks Jeff..I will finish it today and post some before and after pics..

 

[dtanner]

Frank C

I have been haveing so much fun camping and not working on my Cubs.I have a broken key on the pump that runs my loader and its in a bad place for me with the meats that have to work in these small places

So I might as well get this apart and fix it.

I have to add my .02 on mix for chain saws and 2 strok small engines. I use this mix now for 20 yrs and have a husqvarra 225r saw and a 455 rancher that have not had anything done to them since 1991. so this does work and treats 1 gallon of fuel; so I don`t wast fuel its always fresh and works great. I`am done for now lol.

 

[mbrennan]

Need a little help: I have a 127. The steering steering is awful. In looking at the rod from the knuckle to the spindle seems tight and the rod moves evenly as the wheel turns. What I have noticed is that the spindle arm moves a half inch before it starts to push the wheels in either direction. Is there a remedy that fixes this and can a novice do it.
Thanks,
Mike

 

[fcurrier]

Mike: Do a search for taper repair:By Frank A. Currier(Northern Maine) (Fcurrier) on Wednesday, November 25, 2009 - 11:47 am:

Those 169's are beautiful!
but I digress:
Narrow Frame steering spindle taper pin repair:


#7 taper reamer and taper pin, both carried by McMaster-Carr. The pins come in packs of 10 for $8.13 plus s/h which is reasonable and fast ($5 to me). Washers on top of the spindle help make it really tight (not my original idea, stolen from a former post).

Don T.:

Put those 3 missing bolts back in the hood hinge while you're resting.

 

[dtanner]

Frank A. Currier(Northern Maine)
Just wish I had time for them bolts lol.Wife just arrived home with a new barbeque(stainless) to put together and the list to add to the pool to use it. And I must not forget the 10 sod she bought because they were .49 cents each,He words(such a good bargin). So no Cub today

 

[nhasson]

Harry, I did all that working form the top. I didn't try underneath until after I lost 2 gallons of blood. I am going to raise it up this weekend to make it easier. Starting my 12 hour nightshifts here in another hour so the cub's on hold till Saturday or Sunday. Thanks

 

[fcurrier]

Those who cross post from the Registry might recognise this as the 123 that I got from Steve Mitchell and picked up at Zagray Farms.

It now starts with a touch of the key but has such a low RPM vibration that it isn't funny. I just got done with unhooking the driveshaft and it still vibrates. The pic isn't good enough to show that this K301 has the oil dipstick down on the left of the engine instead of up top where the other 123s are. My next guess is the PTO clutch, but I'm not ready to go there, yet. With an engine that starts at the turn of the key, could the timing be off enough to cause severe vibration? That would mean these old Kohlers can start TOO good!

 

[jbaker]

Frank maybe you need some balance gears

 

[bzingleman]

Greetings !

I'm new here and still getting to know the site.

I've looked through the FAQ and haven't seen this one.

I have a 124 that has had the wiring "repaired" probably by several "mechanics". At any rate, it's a mess. There is a voltage regulator lying on the foot rest with all but one wire hooked to it, but with no cover over it. The contactors are exposed!

The points are attached with no covering over them at all.

I would appreciate if anyone has a photo of what these areas are supposed to look like and where they are supposed to attach>

Thanks
Bill