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Archive through June 27, 2012
- Thread starter bproctor
- Start date
Help Support IH Cub Cadet Forum:
akilheffer
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- Jul 3, 2011
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- Andrew Kilheffer
Bob, it may be as simple as a jammed starter drive. With the key off, try turning the motor backward and forward a bit by hand, then try cranking it. If it works, be sure and clean up all your connections from the battery right on through and maybe hit the starter drive with some spray lube. What sometimes happens is the starter drive hangs up in the crank position and even a fully charged battery won't overcome it, all you get is a slight click if that. Good luck
Bob, first chance you get take your air hose and blow out all around the engine cowling and surround tin.
Better yet, remove it all for a better cleaning job.
I had that problem with a 1200 I got a few weeks ago and it was mice nests all balled up and stuck in the starter drive. This was several days after I had had it running. Went to start it and click, no crank. BTW the air cleaner was full of stuffing also.
Dave S
Better yet, remove it all for a better cleaning job.
I had that problem with a 1200 I got a few weeks ago and it was mice nests all balled up and stuck in the starter drive. This was several days after I had had it running. Went to start it and click, no crank. BTW the air cleaner was full of stuffing also.
Dave S
Aw come on now!!!???
The mice were a little bigger than that!!!
Dave S.
The mice were a little bigger than that!!!
Dave S.
I can't make it any bigger, LOL
Bob K,
"(it's kind of a faint sound so I'm not sure) the first time I turn the key I hear a single click sound from somewhere" That faint sound when you first turn on the key switch is more than likely your hour meter gage. It can keep running for up to a minute after you turn off the ignition switch so you won't here it again if you turn the key back on without waiting a spell.
Toggle the electric PTO switch several times back and forth and then try starting it. That switch is also a safety switch which prevents starting the engine if its set in the on position. Sometimes the contacts internal to the switch don't make good contact so try that first. If that don't work then check the safety switch on the brake pedal. The spring clip that pushes the switch in for starting may have broken. Replacements are available from the sponsors above or your nearest CC dealer. Next charge your battery. If the battery is weak, it may not be able to activate the solenoid. If that don't work then check the solenoid itself under the dash. You have to remove the gas tank to gain access. Check the wire connections to make sure they are clean and tight. Also check the connectors on the PTO switch to make sure they are clean and not rusted or broken. Using a continuity light probe, with the brake pedal depressed, PTO switch off and the ignition key on the start position, see if you are getting current to the solenoid the continuity light should light up. If not retrace the wiring to see where your open is in the circuit. You can check the solenoid itself by jumping a wire from the battery lead wire to the small post in the middle of the solenoid to see if it engages the starter. Hope this helps.
"(it's kind of a faint sound so I'm not sure) the first time I turn the key I hear a single click sound from somewhere" That faint sound when you first turn on the key switch is more than likely your hour meter gage. It can keep running for up to a minute after you turn off the ignition switch so you won't here it again if you turn the key back on without waiting a spell.
Toggle the electric PTO switch several times back and forth and then try starting it. That switch is also a safety switch which prevents starting the engine if its set in the on position. Sometimes the contacts internal to the switch don't make good contact so try that first. If that don't work then check the safety switch on the brake pedal. The spring clip that pushes the switch in for starting may have broken. Replacements are available from the sponsors above or your nearest CC dealer. Next charge your battery. If the battery is weak, it may not be able to activate the solenoid. If that don't work then check the solenoid itself under the dash. You have to remove the gas tank to gain access. Check the wire connections to make sure they are clean and tight. Also check the connectors on the PTO switch to make sure they are clean and not rusted or broken. Using a continuity light probe, with the brake pedal depressed, PTO switch off and the ignition key on the start position, see if you are getting current to the solenoid the continuity light should light up. If not retrace the wiring to see where your open is in the circuit. You can check the solenoid itself by jumping a wire from the battery lead wire to the small post in the middle of the solenoid to see if it engages the starter. Hope this helps.
Kriag Mc, thanks for the info about My 149 backfire and stopping..I mowed the lawn again today and the same thing happened several times so I went to the store and got some MMO. Changed the oil and added about four oz to the oil and put in about two oz in the gas. When it stopped the first time I grabed the compression tester and had NO compression, after the loud snap noise that I always hear I checked it again and had compression, it started right up and finished mowing. Is there something else I can do to fix this or should I just try the MMO for awhile? I think you were right on with the sticking valve idea..Thanks again
jbaker
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- Nov 10, 2008
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- jeff l baker
Richard keep using the MMO it will help clear and prevent, but there is another method to try.
take off your air cleaner so you can see straight in the carb then take a spray misting bottle of water and with engine running strong and fast spray mist the water in to che carb.
everyone claims that you can see stuff come out of mufflers. then if it contiues you will need to open a few things up I think.
take off your air cleaner so you can see straight in the carb then take a spray misting bottle of water and with engine running strong and fast spray mist the water in to che carb.
everyone claims that you can see stuff come out of mufflers. then if it contiues you will need to open a few things up I think.
Jeff, thanks for the idea, I will try the water mist thing next time I get a chance. I'm working on a 129 that I've had stored for several years and when I started it up it the piston rod broke and made a hole in the block. I got a replacement motor and have it running and in the 129, now I'm waiting on parts for the PTO and Carb kit. At this point I'm not trying to restore anything just get everthing running. I bought a 127 several years ago just to get a mower deck, it came with some kind of military motor with no starter so today I pulled that thing out and will try to install a 12hp K301 in there. Not sure the 127 will be of much use with the narrow frame and no way to attach a mower deck that I can see yet..I'm sure I'll have many questions as I get into these units a little deeper..Thanks for all the help..RD
mhomrighausen
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- Sep 20, 2001
- Messages
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- Marlin Homrighausen
Paul F. Very Cool video!!! Thank You for posting it.
Also.... How's is your friend coming along with their hydro issues?
Also.... How's is your friend coming along with their hydro issues?
JEFF, RICHARD - The carbon deposits that stick the exh valve open are on the exh valve stem inside the valve guide. They get REALLY hard & shiny, I had a hard time removing them on the exh valve on the K241 I took out of my 72 yrs ago. Scraping them off with a pocket knife worked the best, then wire brush, solventm etc. I'm not sure MMO will be able to loosen & remove them, maybe over time. There's not a lot of oil or gas flow in that area.
An old IH mechanic up around OshKosh writes a column for Red Power Magazine every issue called "The Tractor Doctor", and he addressed sticking exh valves in Kohlers about 6 months ago. Using IH Low Ash oil is the best way to prevent those deposits & exh valve sticking, sometimes it will even remove the deposits.
Removing the head & breather cover, and removing the exh valve, cleaning the valve stem and reinstalling everything is the best way to fix the problem. Also make sure the outside of the breather box is clean helps too. The outside of the breather box on my K241 had 3/8" of dust accumulated on it when I pulled it apart, kept a LOT of heat in. The exh valve puts a LOT of heat on that end of the box and you have to get that heat away from the box or the valve stem grows in diameter, then sticks.
Spraying water into the carb is really for removing carbon deposits from inside the combustion chamber. I doubt it does much to the deposits on the valve stem.
The old K241, and to a lesser extent, even my K321 will stick the exh valve when pulled REALLY hard on a hot day. But it just "Chuffs" for a bit until I can reduce the load then runs O-K. Making sure the tune-up on the engine is good, carb not too lean, timing where it should be reduces the tendency to stick the valve, and of course the grass screen & cooling fins, etc all need to be clean.
An old IH mechanic up around OshKosh writes a column for Red Power Magazine every issue called "The Tractor Doctor", and he addressed sticking exh valves in Kohlers about 6 months ago. Using IH Low Ash oil is the best way to prevent those deposits & exh valve sticking, sometimes it will even remove the deposits.
Removing the head & breather cover, and removing the exh valve, cleaning the valve stem and reinstalling everything is the best way to fix the problem. Also make sure the outside of the breather box is clean helps too. The outside of the breather box on my K241 had 3/8" of dust accumulated on it when I pulled it apart, kept a LOT of heat in. The exh valve puts a LOT of heat on that end of the box and you have to get that heat away from the box or the valve stem grows in diameter, then sticks.
Spraying water into the carb is really for removing carbon deposits from inside the combustion chamber. I doubt it does much to the deposits on the valve stem.
The old K241, and to a lesser extent, even my K321 will stick the exh valve when pulled REALLY hard on a hot day. But it just "Chuffs" for a bit until I can reduce the load then runs O-K. Making sure the tune-up on the engine is good, carb not too lean, timing where it should be reduces the tendency to stick the valve, and of course the grass screen & cooling fins, etc all need to be clean.
