Archive through June 27, 2007

[fmorski]

Bill K:
Welcome:
Try this site I have problems keeping it open, but it is my computer...
kohlerengines.com-common-resorces-tp-2379.pfd

Or just kohlerengines.com and search through for the pictures you need.
Also, Kraig Mc is the keeper of the photos and may be able to post what you need.

1450 is a good Q/L "Quietline" meaning it has side panels and muffler box to help reduce the noise. Also, you will need to make sure the ISO "Engne mounts" are good. Look at the FAQ section for some very good infomation on the cradel for your tractor. Also, always check the FAQ section for most questions. This has some very good info and pictures to help you answer a lot of questions. Parts are available from the sponsors at the top and also, you can find parts info in the PARTS LOOK UP on the top of the page.
Hope this helps.

 

[bkaczynski]

Frank, Thanks, I will check out the sites. This it going to be a difficult journey as this is my first Cub.
Regards,
Bill

 

[rbedell]

Bill K:

The 1450 originally came with a Kohler K321AQS motor. The Spec Number could have been: 60269 and some suffix letter(s).

The original K-321 had the traditional Points and Condenser ignition system. If some solid state device was installed, it is definitely an aftermarket device.

The S/N: 64 006XX indicates the motor was built in 1974 and probably is the original engine to that 1450.

And as Frank mentioned, the TP-2379 Service Manual has great information to aid in getting your motor running.

Lastly, Welcome to the Forum

 

[rnajecki]

While I have the 50C belt cover off, I think I'll give the cover underside and deck top (the area under the cover) a coat of Slip Plate. That should really make the grass clippings fly out of the holes I drill.

Perhaps someone else has mentioned it, but Cub Cadet has changed the mower deck idler shoulder bolt (638-04012A). It now has a grease/zerk fitting. My local parts lady says they improved the part and doubled the price to $11. This meant I had to drill a hole on the belt cover to access the grease fitting. But from what I've read it sounds like frozen idler arms/bolts are common (as mine was), and this new part may help.

I just finished replacing the PTO clutch on my 782 with its Magnum M18S engine. The Service Manual instructions said to remove the heavy grill frame and hood, but I found that wasn't necessary with the right socket tool. I took step-by-step photos and notes as I went along. Before I waste time and site bandwidth, Charlie, would this be something I should send directly to you, or post on this forum? Come to think of it, I can create a PDF and/or Word document and attach it to a future posting. I also found you don't need a pulley/gear puller, as apparantly needed on the Quietline PTO's per the FAQ.

Roy
(Rhode Island)

 

[stanner]

Bill K
the URL for Kohler is

http://www.kohlerengines.com/common/resources/tp_2379.pdf

HTH

 

[jpmoore]

Hey guys. I asked a few days ago about why the deck on my 105 would be slipping in and out of gear, and had a few responses. Anyway, haven't had much time to check into it yet, but just wanted to thank the guys that helped. I'll copy and paste one of the responses I got--->

'''Jarrod, I have to agree with Steve check the PTO clutch. The PTO on my #1 125 recently went out. In my case I think I just wore the friction disc out because the tension spring is intact. I can turn the clutch on the friction disc by hand when it is engaged.'''''

I did have a chance to check that^, and I can turn mine by hand also. Uh--Oh.....Guess I need to pull my pto apart. I also checked a few other things that were mentioned--deck drive belt pulley and arm are free and working correctly, and the 'ears' that someone mentioned might be broke off the clutch are fine too.

Anyway, just wanted to say thanks before my questions and the replies to them are buried deep...threads seem to go pretty fast around here...just goes to show ya how much people like their cubs!

 

[kmcconaughey]

Jarrod, that was my response to your query. Just to clairify, when I wrote that I could turn it by hand, that was with it engaged, i.e., the PTO lever is forward. With the PTO engaged it should NOT turn by hand (the engine will turn over by hand however). With the PTO disengaged, i.e., the PTO lever pulled back, it SHOULD easily turn by hand. Hope that makes sense.

And yes, we do like our Cubs here.

 

[hcole]

Rwilke, I couldn't agree more but I'm one of those people who believes "IF IT AIN'T BROKE DON'T FIX IT" so until that button rusts away I'll probably just leave it as it is and since it's strictly for mowing I'm not real concerned about power loss. Jpmoore, I don't know about anyone else here but I flat LOVE my Cub Cadets!

 

[jhangartner]

Since we had been talking about re sealing the field coil on a pto. I decided to do mine today. My original sealant was raised up, cracked off, and left the windings exposed to dirt, oil etc...

First I removed all of the remaining old sealant. Some flaked off easy. I then chipped the rest off.

Then I decided to try the JB Weld since that was what I had on hand.

Looks a lot better and I hope it holds up for a few years at least.

 

[jpmoore]

Kraig-Yep, that's how I understood what you wrote...I can engage mine (lever forward) and am able to turn it by hand...Pretty sure that's my problem....finding the exact reason for the problem might be a different story. I can see parts of the friction disc without removing anything and it 'looks' OK to me, as in no broken pieces, but again I haven't dismantled it yet to investigate further...Hmm, what/where exactly is the tension spring you speak of? I'll take all the tips I can get.