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Archive through June 26, 2010

IH Cub Cadet Forum

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Kendal H - when you dropped the K301 (non-AQS) into the QL did you solid mount it??? And do you still have it installed??? You mentioned doing it over the winter in 1998 if I recall so it sounded as tho it may have been a temp thing.

Hydro Harry
Old Cubs Never Die (and often use an hp boost)
 
Myron,

I think I've been mowing in the sun too long and now my brain is fried. So if I understand correctly, <u>both</u> top and bottom grease/oil seals should be installed with their flat sides towards the bearings and the hole where the grease enters the hub?
 
I agree with Dennis and Dave im also a currious one and I like gages and instruments
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so I never have to stand around and
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So what advantage does a voltmeter have over a ammeter if any?
 
Dennis,
I understand the need to monitor things - I prefer gauges over idiot lights in my cars and trucks. But common sense goes a long way in maintaining these engines. Keeping cooling fins free of debris, checking and changing the oil appropriately, mowing in the coolest part of the day (if time permits, that is), avoid mowing on the extremely hot days (it's not good for the operator either), etc. I'm not against adding gauges and monitoring devices, but for some people, KISS (keep it simple stupid) applies.
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I know my brother is one who can kill any piece of power equipment, and believe me, having gauges would not help in his situation.
 
DAVE - The sending unit for the cyl. head temp like you described is the easy part (insert stupid big red button commercial here!) but finding a safe way to route the wire and then the gauge in a visible spot where it can be seen, not suffer lots of vibration, weather, dust, physical damage, etc is the hard part on most CC's.

WF's of what ever vinatage would be easier. Just not a whole lot of room on the dash of most older NF's.
 
Well I guess everyone gets to weigh in on the temp gauges. If you add the gauges what would you do with the DATA???? Is it like the comment on an airplane - engine shuts off at a certain temp??? Should we shut off the engine at a certain temp??? Probably not or it's just going to heat up more since there is no air flow as someone already noted. Outside air temp apparently makes a difference. Do you not use the tractor because it's 90 or 100 outside??? I don't know if it's worth a hill of beans, but what or what do you do with the info (DATA). For my money, the tach may be more useful if you're gonna add a gauge. But then again if it's hot out do you run at slightly lower rpm's (3200 maybe?). You get less air flow and doesn't cool as much. What or what do we do with the data. Charlie may just have the best position. Don't worry and just enjoy using the tractor.

NOW - on the oil. Ole KenTUCK has been at it in the Sand Box, but the oil debate will never end. Having read Art's link it looks to me like all this stuff might be "hog wash" (hehe). Everyone's got their own idea of what may be best and may be needed. I got really worried on the ZDDM or ZDM, or zinc missing, but it seems on the little scientific info I see, the newer oils are lower in ash, and for my money that may be worth more than less ZDM. I think I'll just stick with my Valvoline 30W which has always worked well for me. One thing tho, going back in the Forum history to the "Original" Great Oil Debate, in the days BTGC (Before the Great Crash as some of us may remember), the greatest comment I recall was one past along from an Old Timer - quote "Oil is Oil, and some is better than NONE". For my 3cents, take care of your engine, keep the oil changed often, and at the full mark, and you should enjoy a long engine performance life.

Hydro Harry
Old Cubs Never Die (and they love their oil changes)
 
I going to mount that 2 hole pannel I posted a pic of right where the original charge indicator would have been.

On the voltmeter vs ammeter voltmeter is better becaus it can detect over charging of the batt ammeters cant and voltmeters are easy to install the only advantage a ammeter has is it can dettect discharge when key is off it could be benneficial to put both on a tractor.

I agree with hh Ill stick with my valvoline 30w
 
Roy - Rotella is 1200 ppm zinc.

Lucas - WHY do you keep wanting to compare oranges to apples ?
 
What is the biggest tire I could easily fit on my 149? I need to replace both front and rear and want to go to an AG, or ATV mud type tire.
 
HH, what do you do with the data from your truck or car? It's a tool, I don't own one of everything, never will.
Dennis, Yep, if it was easy ...
 
Hydro Harry The 14 hp was in a 128 not a quiet line tractor. I just used it for snowplowing because my hydros are to hard starting in really cold temps.I had a snow thrower on my 147 for several years and did the battery tender and magnetic heater stuff. Gear drives just crank faster in cold weather. And the tired old 124 thats wearing the thrower went thru 16 inches of snow last winter one storm. I just need to get the creeper gear and a new teaser spring in it before winter.
 
Robert L:
That's the kind of post that the seller might want to put in the Classifieds, not here.... (check the Forum Rules...)
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Dave R - It's not that I'm disagreeing with you. If you have and understand what to do with the data the gauges provide, then fine, go ahead and install the temp gauges. I suspect you're gonna get alot of different readings. But what is normal and what is an indication of a problem. The gauges in my truck have normal range indications, and when I exceed these I know I have a problem. If we put gauges on the tractor, what's normal when it's 100 degrees outside. If it runs hot do you just stop using it and look for a problem? If it's 40 below, and runs hot do you stop and look for blocked air flow. Will these gauges save you from blowing up an engine? Many many many have survived for 40 years without these temp gauges. I just can't see what one is going to do for me. Maybe it would tell me just before the engine blows, and I suppose I might save myself from putting a window in the block, but at this point I'm just not convinced that it would do something like that. And what are the chances of that if I take regular care of my engine? Maybe I'm missing something here, or maybe I just don't get it. I see nothing wrong with having these gauges in your tool box, if you want to be able to check these things when you suspect a problem. But I'm just not there on having the gauges mounted on the tractor for full time monitoring. Sorry but I'm still with Charlie on this one.

Hey Lucas - I see we agree on something.

Kendal - sorry I missed that. I guess I was overloaded on DATA
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Hydro Harry
Old Cubs Never Die (when old timers use'm)
 
Sorry folks.
I do not post here very often, a longtime lurker.
Since Harry B's #1000 post on early forum. Great forum, keep up the good work. Love pictures.
Harry B. Glad to see you back and posting.
Bob
 
See Charlie, we at least got another post from Bob!!! C'mon Bob, tell us a little about the cubs you <u>do</u> have (since you don't have room for more). (and don't worry about that six month thing from Charlie - he lives so far away, it'd take him six months just to find ya.... but if you've got a good running 149, or a 982D, I might have to step in for him.. )
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Dennis:"Many here complain about a huge "POP" when shutting their tractor engine off after running.".. Not me, not ever - it's tradition.....
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(That's me and the neighbor and our "air" shotguns..yelling "PULL!!!"
 
is my little 108 capable of doing any tilling? if so, what types/models of tillers are available (for the lea$t amount po$$ible)?. I'm just thinking of expanding my garden by quite a large margin and dont know If I'm better off just buying/borrowing a walk behind...
 
Wayne S it would be tough for your 108, you will need the following: creeper gear,rear lift,spring assist(not nessesary just real helpful),a strong running 10horse engine, and then the tiller and right angle gear. if you got all that yes your 108 would work
 
Lucas-

What do you mean an ammeter can't display overcharging? Sure it can...

Wayne-

You need a creeper and a 1 or 1A tiller with one extension. The #2 has both extensions permanent, essentially, and I don't think a 10 hp will do as well with that. A good strong 12 hp or above will handle the tiller with both extensions.
 

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