Archive through June 25, 2010

[jbaker]

The other day I installed new pto buttons on my 128 (gotta love the brass ones from a sponser the only way to go) while cutting today one of the screws that hold the pto button loosend up should I be using thread lock on the nuts for these?

Also does anyone have a pto adjustment tool they can measure as I would like to make one, I know sponsers have them to but money is real real tight right now.

 

[kide]

Look for 82-72 Series Chassis Manual.pdf in ccmanuals. I still didn't see a thing about those mounts...(other than in the disassembly section, it shows the sequence for reassembly)

 

[fcurrier]

Hydrostatic H.: I see no reason that wouldn't be a drop in. The only reason I've seen that there wasn't a 1400 is IH didn't think the driveline would stand the extra 2hp.

 

[jharvey]

HH
Ryan Mull may have put a 14HP in a Quietline geardrive for a plowing tactor.

Jeff
If you want those PTO jam nuts to stay tight polish them up on a fine piece of sandpaper. They can't have any rust, dirt or grease on them.

 

[ljones]

All the 14 horse tractors that ih produced where hydro this is proably for a reson.

Could you put a magnetic heater on the oil pan and on on the bottom of the trans to make a cub start easyer in the winter?

I e-mailed dave kirk on the oil temp gage he said he would study some and chime in.

 

[kharvey]

Hydro Harry son Andy and I put a 14 hp from a 149 into a 128 to break it in after a rebuild.I left it in all winter for snowplow duty. Way back when you answered my voltage reg questions in 1998 or so. I know I been around this stuff to long. I nearly went to take a picture of my point file and old oil spout after the discussion a few days ago.

 

[gsmyth]

1450
Sorry for the delay. I even dreamed about that tractor. GENTLEMEN: I read what you advised as provided at this site. I have power increasing as the throttle is pushed forward!.. As it turns out when I moved the engine for the hydro fan replacement I did not disconnect the throttle and choke cables at the clamp. The result was that I snapped off a bit of the sheathing. It was disconnected from the remainder of the sheathing but appeared to be in the clamp. It looked whole but it was snapped. In effect it moved the cable forward. This afternoon I opened the clamp and immediately found that item. Eventually I removed the broken portion and slid the remaining sheathing back in the clamp, set the throttle "T" to idle at the dash, went to the engine and pushed and watched as the throttle link moved backwards keeping the engine running at idle, I retightened the clamp. I'm running at idle and the throttle lever is all the way at the bottom of its limit on the dash. With cable sheathing resecured I moved the throttle forward. The engine responded with gradually increasing power to spare! I still do not have a tach and the strobe idea fell through, but I have power. As soon as I can get a tach (do I look for a single cylinder tach?) I'm sure that I can tweak to the necessary range now that I have the speeds provided by the Service Manual (and Harry, of course.) This evening I'm still testing, but the hills no longer seem a problem, there is no bucking (I believe that that was the coil cable being loose) and the throttle is a tad above 3/4. Without knowing what full throttle speed would be I'll play it a safe until I can get accurate tach speeds. The sound is loud but the air cleaner, drive shaft tunnel, and side panels are off. A little above 3/4 is about the right pitch as I remember though. Thank you all. Old paint was as good as dead without all your help. It's old but it isn't the horse, I just had to learn to stable it properly. I may not be out of the woods yet, but thank you all. New spindle installed and deck reinstalled tomorrow, Cutting again in a long time this weekend ---I hope.

 

[rnajecki]

JEFF,

If you meant the Bronze PTO button, the nut that came with mine is a Nylock, with the nylon insert. You can get those just about any hardware store or home center. Some folks sell the bronze button without thread for a nut. I tried one of those, but it could fall out of the arm, especially if the hole is oversized.

You're welcome to borrow my PTO measuring tools (I've got both). So email me about that.

 

[T-Mo]

IH did put a 16 hp in the 582 which were gear drive. If IH did anything to lessen the stress on the clutch and drive train, someone else here with more knowledge would have to answer that one.

 

[pandrews]

Lucas,
I have two 149's here in northern MI and could not get them to fire in winter. I tried the mag block heater and Dave Kirks Ultimate ignition(Dave makes great products) still no go. I feel if your going to use a hydro in the winter for plowing keep it in a heated garage with a battery tender on it! I am still trying to build that garage.LOL Good luck

 

[mgonitzke]

A stock 582 will slip the clutch under a hard pull. This is easily remedied by using the red pulling spring. I have one of those in my 18 hp 582 and it never slips the clutch.

 

[kide]

Paul:
I'm straight east of you about 80 miles (hope da Yoopers don't catch ya calling GR "Northern MI"), most winters all I need is a good battery and a little patience. In realllllly cold (sub zero), I had to put a booster box on once or twice, but since I've started using a magnetic block heater on the transaxle back plate, I've never had a problem. The issue, if you've put winter oil in, is the hydro, not the engine...BTW Lucas, magnets don't stick to aluminum and the pan isn't flat enough on most Cubs to get heat transfer from the heater, anyway...

 

[rnajecki]

I've been 'rebuilding' my 48" deck for the past few weeks, taking off the rust, applying Slip Plate, and installing a new idler arm bolt with grease fitting. This deck came with a 149 that I rarely use for mowing, so the deck has sat in the shed for a few years. This deck has the spindles with the aluminum casting and replaceable roller bearings, as opposed to the ST-745 sealed bearing spindles. The spindles on the left and right of the deck were mounted with the aluminum casting under the deck, and the center spindle had the aluminum casting on top of the deck. A few weeks ago it was mentioned that all of these castings should be under the deck.

So I’m putting the deck back together and I mount the center spindle under the deck. When I attach the cutting blade I noticed that it is ¾” below the other two blades. Was it like this before and I didn’t notice it? So I disassemble and find that the center spindle is ¾” longer than the left/right spindles (5 ¾” vs 5”). Looking through my files I find Roland Bedell’s May 17, 2005 message about having two different size spindles, ¾” difference, and he didn’t understand why. At this point I don’t know why either. Figuring the previous owner installed the wrong spindle, I bought a 5” spindle (part no. 759-3370) at my local Cub Cadet store.

Then it struck me that maybe the longer spindle is needed when the aluminum casting is mounted on top of the deck, and the shorter spindle is for under deck mountings. Sure enough that’s how it works.

Here is a photo showing three spindle types, from top to bottom:
the 5 ¾” spindle – part number might be 759-3369 and might be the alternate to the ST-746.
the 5” spindle – part number 759-3370.
and a broken 5” sealed bearing spindle ST-745.

Now to my question. When I bought the new 5” spindle 759-3370 it came with an oil/grease seal which I thought was odd. What has got me confused are the instructions to install the seal open side turned up. I’ve never seen that before, and the other seals on my decks all have the closed side facing outwards. Can anyone explain the reasoning, and does it really make a difference?
<center><table border=1><tr><td>

spindle kit
Spindle Shaft 759-3370.pdf (65.5 k)</td></tr></table></center>

 

[ljones]

Gary Smyth,kirk engins (one of the sponsorers above) has a tach for a cadet.

What does a volt meter do for ya is it better than an amp meter.

 

[jbaker]

Thanks Roy and Jerry, I was referring to the jam nuts so I will clean them and the pto up, as they are rusty . I should have cleaned it all up but I needed to mow and of course was in a hurry.

thanks again guys and Roy I sent you a email Jeff

 

[dkirk]

Gentlemen,

It's been awhile; thanks for the kind words. I'll try and insert a few comments on small air-cooled engines, their operating temperatures, etc.

The cast iron-block engines run cooler oil temperatures than all aluminum counterparts, mainly due to the lower thermal conductivity of cast iron. Hot day, full load oil temps in a K-series Kohler run around 250 F. Aluminum engines see upwards of 300 F. I've actually seen engines continue to run at 320 F but mineral oils begin to oxidize rapidly at these temperatures, quickly becoming tar-like. This is the reason that full synthetic, multi-viscosity oils are superior for any engine running such high oil temperatures. It takes about twice as long to oxidize as straight-weight mineral oil.

Best location for a head temperature thermocouple is the spark plug gasket. Expect to see around 425 F for hot day, full load operation on a K-series Kohler. Any hotter and you should richen the high speed jet a bit.

Splash lubrication is effective even down to very low idle speeds. 700-800 rpm is totally safe. The only reason the AQS recommended idle speed was 1800 rpm was due to the flywheel alternator...this is where charging voltage became ample. The starter-generators would charge at lower speeds due to the step-up speed ratios employed on the belt sheaves. This is why the earlier engines had 1000 rpm idle speed specified.

During my tenure at Tecumseh, we rigged up a new engine with crankcase windows to view the dynamics of splash lubrication and to check if oil was being distributed properly. Even at idle, an ample fog of oil is present - at 3600 rpm, visibility is severely limited. In an air-cooled engine, this is beneficial as lots of liquid comes in contact with the underside of the piston dome, removing heat.

Last year I bought some of those nice aluminum diamond plate foot treads from CC Specialties for my 1250. I just had to make a tunnel cover plate to match.

 

[jbliler]

Guys,,, we all missed a good question,,,, Wander what Harry fills "his" crankcase with??? He does live in the land of microbrews now! We need a good "CC"brew here!

 

[hydroharry]

Well Dave K - thanks for all the great info, especially on the low rpms. Makes alot of sense - I idled my 1450 a little low and the amp gauge would show a slight discharge, but not enough to make a difference - at least I never had a starting or battery problem.

Make sure you keep dropping back now and again. Like those foot DP foot treads. Not sure about the cover tho - seems it would be hard to read the important instructions.

Gary S - WELL that's great news. I think you're probably really close to being correct on your rpm's. I actually use a Tecumsah vibration tach to check the rpm's. It's cheap (or at least was) but does take a little to get used to and deciding where it's the most accurate. I'll get the part number off the box and maybe they are around. I think Kohler and BS use the same ones (they are made in Italy if I recall correctly). Dave Kirk has a really nice one if you want to install one in the dash. Not sure if he has the tool use type. And while I'm talking about Dave's "Kirk Engines" (sponsor) his SuperSteer is the best thing since someone invented the wheel to steer with. Everyone with a CC should have one. You just don't know what you're missing if you don't have SuperSteer.

Jerry - about the only thing I put in my tank is Ethyl (hi test). Those micro brews are to far a walk for me. I stick with the imported stuff - straight from St.Loui'.

Kendal H and all you other guys - thanks for all the info. (And Kendall you're gonna have to remind me about Voltage Regs). My knowledge stopped accumulating when IH started a paint'n CC's red. I never knew, what they did with the 82's (is that a rhymn?). I'll have to look into heavier '82 spring info. That wouldn't be much of a change.

Thanks again to all.

Hydro Harry
Old Cubs Never Die (even when their Diamond Plated)

 

[jbliler]

Thanks David K! This has been a great read. Covering stuff I wander about but just don't know enough to comment. I still blame the "it's too hot to mow" on engine safety! Seems to work here.

 

[jbliler]

Harry,,, nobody reads that stuff!