Archive through June 23, 2009

[dtanner]

More to do in the am. but another few parts put together.Time flies when here in the Cub shed.
Later Don T

 

[dtanner]

Allen Schumacher (Aschumacher) thanks,I have a battery cable for a big truck that is between 2 batterys 9in long for a S/G ground to frame.Just thinking that i should clean the side so i don`t have a ground issue later. I hate new paint for putting parts together. I always mark something

. Oh well i`am not alone there. Kraig seems to be so lucky (fussy) lol. when this is finisher and i take some pictures i`am going down acrost my drive and move 6 ton of topsoil and then 5 ton of 2 in rock for a Cub drive to my back shed. So it won`t look new long. later Don T

 

[rpalmer]

i`am going down acrost my drive and move 6 ton of topsoil and then 5 ton of 2 in rock for a Cub drive to my back shed. So it won`t look new long. later Don T

But you will be a stilling while you work. Great looking paint Don.

 

[rbarnes]

Bruce, that cubs looking real good!!, what kinda paint are you using from TSC ive been considering using transports yellow(under 30 bucks a gallon) but I dont know if that against some kinda cub law.

 

[wcompton]

Kraig-
I do have additional pictures, but nothing of real value. Work is slow but still ongoing, it's been taking a backseat to work (sadly, the Capri is also still in storage)

I'm glad someone posted pictures of the plumbing, I may have forgotten how it went together!!

For anyone looking at installing a fuel pump, it's not really necessary unless you've modified the engine. I've done so at the recommendation of several who have built engines for tractor pulling. The only problem for now is finding a good working aluminum fuel pump, the only replacements on the market are plastic body units.}

 

[cchristian]

Sorry I have no pics of original cadet with front mount woods, it's tore down getting painted, maybe tomorrow I'll take pics of pieces.

 

[bnolte]

Richard B.
Transport Yellow is a logical choice. IH built lots and lots of school bus chassis back in the day, most of which were painted (drum roll please) a color called National School Bus Chrome, which I remember my Dad had a can of to paint the old 102. Transport Yellow I believe is based on that color.

I figure IH just used what they had, and their school bus color fit the needs for their small tractors, so they just used that.

Perhaps any current or ex IH employees can give me additional insight into this.

 

[kasmith]

Thanks everyone, I'll get a new voltage regulator and see if that works.

Kurt

 

[podenbach]

Mike F, that was already too many beers ago. I thought the coil was moved out of the way eliminating the potential fire risk of dripping fuel from a leaking bulb or tank bung. Without the tank mounted, it looked like the coil was out of the way but is still under the fuel bulb/tank bung area. Yeah it was blowing 60mph+ at one point and had some locust trees come down so I decided to "MT" the cooler. Still getting those nor'easter winds today. I was hunting in your neck over the weekend, sorry. Saw a 125 in Rochester that was in CL with no pics for 150. I got my buddy interested in IHCC so we decided to go for a road trip to look at it. I really thought with a low price like that it would be the usual rust sled. It ended up being a well taken care of all original 125. Very Clean! I should of never mentioned it to him, lol. The guy even put a crate NOS hydrostatic pump in it 2 years ago that was from a local dealer. I picked up that 104 in Pocasset on the way up there from a guy who inherited it (and the house) from his father, the original purchaser. The throw out bearing is toast but has a black replacement engine that runs strong and rear lift and all new rubber this year. Will get some pics once this sand bar dries out.

 

[dfrisk]

PORTER - You could mount the fuel tank 180 degrees from the OEM position, that gets the fuel valve & sediment bulb on the other side of the engine over the S/G but of course the short fuel line won't work then. Depends on how "Original" You want Your Cubbie. I'd rather change a few things for safety and convenience than have a burned-out hulk.

To add to what Wyatt said about fuel pumps for Kohlers, I have a BRAND NEW Kohler fuel pump in the shop, It's all plastic, and has quick-attach fittings on the inlet & outlet, similar to what Ford uses, has two little red plastic "U" shaped clips to hold the o-ring sealed fittings into the pump body. I'm not even sure any of the parts from the new pump like the diaphram & springs will fit in the old metal bodied pumps. It's been my experience with molded plastic parts used in stressed applications exposed to high temps that the plastic flexes/warps and could leak oil from the crankcase. My K321 in the 72 has an old metal bodied pump SON bought off e-bay. It also has threaded inlet & outlets like Wyatt's.

 

[jmuncie]

I saw an old post that got me to thinking...Do the 42" and 48" decks use different spindles? If so, is the difference in the spindle height? I have a 48" deck that the blades are at 2 different heights.

Thanks,
Jerry

 

[kmcconaughey]

Don T., I don't think you'll need to grind away the paint on the S/G mount or block, just make sure that the bolt holes in the block are free of paint, (chase the threads with a tap) that the bolts are free of paint and the area where the bolt heads contact the S/G bracket and you should be good. BTW, looking good!

Bruce, good progress!

What's that red tractor in the background?

Jerry, I do believe that the 42" and 48" decks use different spindles. First thing to check is that all three spindles are mounted from the top side.

 

[podenbach]

Dennis that is a good idea I might try that on my worker. I might even try to mount the coil over the clutch dead space area off the two lower tank support bracket bolts.

I am having some difficulties with the 104 rear roll pin on the drive shaft rear coupler. It has never been out and is frozen in there. I just ruined my snap-on roll pin punches trying to get at it thru the creeper slot. I tried PB blaster overnight as well and still locked up. I just pulled the motor and put the tractor in "field dressing stance" to get at it better. I am afraid to try and drill it out risking hole damage. I hate using heat but has anyone had any luck with getting a stuck pin out? TIA

 

[wmiller]

Porter Split the tractor and remove the transaxle,shaft and all. With the transaxle horizontal (wheels on the floor,set the coupling on a solid block of wood so you have a solid backing and try again. If you pound on the shaft with it unsupported you risk damageing the frt creeper bearing and perhaps dislodging the bearing snap ring, with the shaft solidly supported pounding will be much more effective. After you get the coupling off this would be a good time remove the seal retainer and check the snap ring and the condition of the frt bearing (it was bad in my 126) Position the creeper vertically before you dissasemble any of it. Good luck, Wayne

 

[dfrisk]

PORTER - Wayne has the right idea for that furthest back rollpin. I had that happen on My 72 about 20 yrs ago, sheared the front rollpin in the coupler and while I was there wanted to replace a seal & gasket and a bearing or two. I ended up SNAPPING the end off the drive pinion for the reduction housing and had to replace it. That gear/shaft alone cost about 1/4 of what I paid for the whole tractor 10-12 yrs before.

Also, I mounted the coil on a 129 I had years ago off those two 1/4"-20 studs on the blower housing, I mounted Mine horizontal, which should be O-K for most coils, but it turned out it vibrated quite a bit mounted there. Coils don't like vibration. I ended up having to use two mounting bands, one on each stud to keep it from vibrating.

 

[kide]

Dennis:
You mean it stopped it from a non-synchronous vibration - with two bands on it, it's just in time with the rest of the engine

 

[podenbach]

Thanks Dennis and Wayne, I got it out I just needed to let the PB Blaster work a bit more. I hate to say I used an air hammer briefly to do it but it broke free. Wayne after reading your post I used a block of wood and some tree wedges behind it against the frame to support it so that helped keep it steady so thanks for that memory bank reboot (must be the Coors Light working OT).

If I split the tractor I could not stop myself from going all the way to paint with it.

Dennis I think I will try the tank rotation seeing how I never use my tubing tools anymore. A gas fire is just one of those things that can happen unexpectedly even when being vigilant about equipment checks. It would probably break and leak when you are using it, not between uses.

 

[dtanner]

Did some more on my 129, later Don T

 

[dfrisk]

PORTER - Brass hose barb fittings & 1/4" dia. rubber fuel line tubing have worked on My CC's for years. It's cheap, real easy to install an in-line gas filter, most any hardware store has the stuff needed.
Son & I put 3/8" SS braided AN flexible tubing & anodized fittings on the K321 in My 72 when We installed it 2-3 yrs ago. WAY over-kill but We wanted practice for replumbing some things on His pickup.

 

[snicklas]

Dennis and Porter,

I very well understand the consern about a gas fire caused by a leak from the tank onto the coil.

Many years ago I was out mowing on the 124 we had at the time. This was a "mowing only" tractor and we used the 149 for everything else. I had mowed the entire yard and was cleaning up the roadside across from the house, I turned around to make another pass and just happened to look down to see where the left front tire was, and I see dripping flames from the glass bowl area to the coil. I hit the key and bailed off the back of the tractor and RAN toward the house, about 30 seconds after I had bailed, the fumes in the top if the tank exploded and blew the gas cap, bung and all, out of the top of the tank and blew the hood open about a foot (didn't have the latches on this one). I did a pretty good job of frying the wiring harness and cooked all the paint off the hood. We rebuilt it and used it for a while, but it was never the same after....

I do like the coil placement in the QL's.....

Just a close call and I am glad I looked down when I did, or I believe I would have found out there was a problem the hard way.....