Craig E.
Here's what comes in the repair kit,
Here's what comes in the repair kit,
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Archive through June 21, 2013
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Frank, that would be the one. Now has a "3D" 1466 grill and needs a new nose cone insert and now has the 18" V61's on the front
Harry, I reduced the gap from .020 to .018 and that helped the backfiring issue on startup, it may be the governor, Im going to order a new condenser as theyre usually troublesome. Or seem to be for me. They are supposed to go on the negative side of the coil correct? Perhaps a point saver and blue coil are in the works, or the electric ignition. I have a spare carter carb that just needs a cleaning and the main fuel needle (borrowed from it to put in the one I have on the tractor currently) so maybe that'll help?
The fuel tank looks clean on the bottom but a bunch of fine grit came into the fresh filter yesterday, I went from the screen type to the paper medium filter and it seems like its already doing a better job.
Harry, I reduced the gap from .020 to .018 and that helped the backfiring issue on startup, it may be the governor, Im going to order a new condenser as theyre usually troublesome. Or seem to be for me. They are supposed to go on the negative side of the coil correct? Perhaps a point saver and blue coil are in the works, or the electric ignition. I have a spare carter carb that just needs a cleaning and the main fuel needle (borrowed from it to put in the one I have on the tractor currently) so maybe that'll help?
The fuel tank looks clean on the bottom but a bunch of fine grit came into the fresh filter yesterday, I went from the screen type to the paper medium filter and it seems like its already doing a better job.
I need some new tires. Currently, the 1250 Nightmare has well worn Goodyear ribs on the front. I use the tractor mostly for neighborhood hiking, parades and occasional yard cart and dethacher duty. The rear tires are Firestone Turf and Garden style. I believe that these are the original tires on the tractor.
Are there any opinions as to staying with the rib design, or should I consider a knobby turf style, or a different style tire for the front? The rear tires are still quite useable, and I won't replace them right now, but the fronts have cord showing. It's time.
Are there any opinions as to staying with the rib design, or should I consider a knobby turf style, or a different style tire for the front? The rear tires are still quite useable, and I won't replace them right now, but the fronts have cord showing. It's time.
Brian, all depends on what you want, looks or functionality. My 149 came with the chevron shaped turf tires up front and goodyear turfs on the back. they filled with mud and held it, and I didnt like how they looked. I put the firestone triple ribs on the front for a while, they ate my turf when turning but got amazing traction in any terrain. I now have oversized Vredestein V61 5 rib tires on the front. they offer excellent traction, look excellent, and dont damage my yard. I also have carlisle tru powers on the rear and love them. only drawback ive had is when they ride up on a root or stick at the right angle they slip and spin. Im tempted to put the firestone 23 degrees on it in a 26*12 but thats a dream really lol - hope this helps!
Carlisle makes a good rib tire close to stock goodyears that came on the tractors, my uncle has them on all his cubs and they work very well.
Carlisle makes a good rib tire close to stock goodyears that came on the tractors, my uncle has them on all his cubs and they work very well.
hydroharry
Well-known member
- Joined
- Jul 22, 2007
- Messages
- 4,468
- displayname
- Harry Bursell
Melody, Melody, Melody - if you don't get the gear box with the pulleys and mounting bracket, then you are only getting 1/2 a tiller. I must have pasted on buying 1/2 a tiller a dozen times. It used to happen alot. Guys would sell just the main section and claim the gearbox and mount was part of the tractor. It just ain't so. Guys have looked for years to find the gear box and mount. They are harder to find than the main tiller section. If I were you I'd probably pass on it, unless you could get it for like $50 or less. (By the way, if you mean just the gearbox itself, and you're getting the mount, pulleys and everything else, well you can find the gear boxes - even use one from a snow thrower but if it's a 4 tab mount it will likely have 2:1 gear ratio with 30 tooth and 15 tooth gears. The old 3 tab mount from an early thrower may have 3:2 but you'd have to actually look at the gears and count the teeth).
Brian W - I always liked the Carlisle Rib tires that Glen mentioned, that have appearance close to the original Goodyear. The QL tractors tend to have camber built into the spindle and if you use turf patterns it will wear the tread pattern off the outsides of the tires. The rib tires have those rounded over sides which tend to wear better with the camber set up. They will slide more on snow/ice but you don't mention that use for yours. They might even be made in the good ole US of A, but you'd have to check.
Under Edit - Dennis F - you burning the mid-nite oil?
Brian W - I always liked the Carlisle Rib tires that Glen mentioned, that have appearance close to the original Goodyear. The QL tractors tend to have camber built into the spindle and if you use turf patterns it will wear the tread pattern off the outsides of the tires. The rib tires have those rounded over sides which tend to wear better with the camber set up. They will slide more on snow/ice but you don't mention that use for yours. They might even be made in the good ole US of A, but you'd have to check.
Under Edit - Dennis F - you burning the mid-nite oil?
BRIAN - To my way of thinking, Any frt tire is a GOOD TIRE if it holds air on a CC. Rears are a different story, since I have Firestone 23 degree tires on two of my CC's, and the third will get them as soon as SON gets his hands on it.
My 70 & 72 still have the factory installed GY ribbed 4.00/4.80X8's, but they won't last many more years, the nylon cords in the casings are getting weak and blow-outs are coming. My 982 has Titan Multi-Trac C/S turf tires on the frt and they work great for mowing and general yard use. They steer hard at slow speeds or when stopped on dry clean concrete and other hard surfaces but it's impossible to tear up the grass with them. And pulling forward or backwards allows you to steer easier. Most of the problem is the fact the tires are so large, 18-8.50X8's, the std SGT frt tire size. ANY tire is going to pack up with mud and wet dirt if conditions are right. I spent enough time doing hog chores in mud as a kid to know mud & wet dirt sticks to rubber. When it dries, it falls off.
SO, if your going to use your 1250 on yard chores like dethatching, I'd go with the turf tire. Not sure how you go "Hiking" with a CC, it's actually illeagal to run a garden tractor on public roads, but the turf tires will work O-K on pavement as well as grass.
My old 129 had mis-matched GY & Carlisle ribbed 16-6.50X8's and granted they were about wore out but their steering performance sucked. Turf tires wear longer and last longer, and perform better the whole time.
My 70 & 72 still have the factory installed GY ribbed 4.00/4.80X8's, but they won't last many more years, the nylon cords in the casings are getting weak and blow-outs are coming. My 982 has Titan Multi-Trac C/S turf tires on the frt and they work great for mowing and general yard use. They steer hard at slow speeds or when stopped on dry clean concrete and other hard surfaces but it's impossible to tear up the grass with them. And pulling forward or backwards allows you to steer easier. Most of the problem is the fact the tires are so large, 18-8.50X8's, the std SGT frt tire size. ANY tire is going to pack up with mud and wet dirt if conditions are right. I spent enough time doing hog chores in mud as a kid to know mud & wet dirt sticks to rubber. When it dries, it falls off.
SO, if your going to use your 1250 on yard chores like dethatching, I'd go with the turf tire. Not sure how you go "Hiking" with a CC, it's actually illeagal to run a garden tractor on public roads, but the turf tires will work O-K on pavement as well as grass.
My old 129 had mis-matched GY & Carlisle ribbed 16-6.50X8's and granted they were about wore out but their steering performance sucked. Turf tires wear longer and last longer, and perform better the whole time.
Harry, I think I will pass on the tiller. I don't really need it. It had everything on the tiller, just was missing the gear box and mount that goes on the tractor. Thanks for the input. Dennis, nice to see you posting again. Always enjoy reading your wealth of knowledge.
Could someone post a picture of a charge pump showing the star and the pin that spins the charge pump. The charge pump has to be put on so the suction hole matches the hole in the cover so the pump can get fluid.
Batteries is dead in my camera !
Batteries is dead in my camera !
well I`am trying to help someone by email and that is hard to do.even the parts look up does not show the charge pump pin .The drawing of all the parts does show where the charge pump pin sits in the shaft number 8 .
GRRR have a great day all!!!
GRRR have a great day all!!!
About the tiller mount- a lot of people don't know that stuff like that can bolt on/off; they thought it came from the factory that way. Case in point- my brother didn't know that the 3 point/tiller box could be bolted on after seeing a bunch of cubs the last few days without them.
Ive come across several rear PTO boxes on popular internet auction sites, I had one on my list for a while to make my tractor able to mow with a 3 point tow behind like Dale Merkle's 1466 black stripe custom using a simplicity mower deck. That project never happened though. So, Melody, I would look into getting the whole shibang together, tiller, arms, gearbox, belts etc, but if not then try to get the gearbox itself which is the hard part and then you can put it together as the budget allows.
tcampbell
Member
- Joined
- Sep 3, 2011
- Messages
- 9
- displayname
- Tom campbell
I have a 1250 with a Ogura pto clutch.The field coil is bad. Does anyone know where to find the specs for the field coil( Size , wire size,number of windings etc.) so I can have a local shop rebuild the one I have since everything else is OK on the unit. (they used both ogura and warner on these).This complete unit costs half what I paid for the whole tractor so I trying to save some money. Thanks for any advise.
