Archive through June 20, 2008

[aschumacher]

 

[krandall]

I went to Rochester MN yesterday to pick up a SUPER from Todd Heins....Great guy...Then stopped off to see my pal Charlie Proctor...Who won't stand still for a picture...

Something about Wit-less relocation....
Got to see the inner workings of the multi-million dollar Fortune 500 company..CC Specialties...

Here's a couple shots of the new to me Super....

IS IT PLOW DAY YET??????

 

[krandall]

Charlie....I took another look at the pictures you posted of me and now I know what Brittney and Paris feel like with all the paparazzi around
Glad I was wearing underwear

Thanks again for showing me you place{and not callin'the cops}I needed a break from drivin....
905 miles round trip....

 

[digger]

Kurt,
Your Welcome here anytime man!

Good thing you didn't check the other truck load of 20 seats.

 

[rrschmitt]

Tom B.,

If I'm reading your note correctly, you didn't hook up the wires to the safety switch. So did you put a jumper wire in its place? The starter solenoid circuit runs from the battery to the on/off switch to the safety switch and then to the solenoid. The switch has to be in the start position and safety switch closed to complete the circuit. Also, I would recommend checking your solenoid by hooking a jumper wire from the positive battery terminal to the small solenoid terminal which engages the solenoid to see if it works.

 

[rrschmitt]

Kent W,

On your 149 lights, first check the fuse for the light circuit. It's under the dash by the ammeter. Power for the lights comes from one of the ammeter terminals and the fuse is located in an in-line fuse holder that you push together and twist to unlatch to remove the fuse. You will need to remove the hood support panel by the gas tank to gain access. Check the feed wire running from the from the lights to a black snap connector down by where the wires come out of the harness for the Starter/Generator to make sure the insulation hasn't rubbed off at the wire clamp holders causing a short. Also check the ground wire where it ties to the grill attach bolt to make sure the contact surfaces are clean an not rusted. Finally check the wiring for the tail lights as well to make sure there's no broken wires or bare spots in the insulation that would cause a short.

 

[gpapa]

Does anyone have a photo or a schematic of the throttle on a 100? Mine is working opposite; slow position increases the engine speed, and vise-versa. A picture of the controls at the engine may help also. Thank you, Greg

 

[mjohnson]

I 've got a problem with the auto release valves in a 1650. It went forward but no reverse. I took the valves out to inspect them and when I put them back in I switched them. Now I've got reverse and no forward. It's obviously one of the valves but I didn't see any difference between them. Both valves have the ball in the lower position. The ball in each valve move up when lifted but return back down when released. The old type with the button that sticks out the top have the ball in the upward position. How do these auto release valves work? Thanks Marshall

 

[twible]

Well, I am finally the proud owner of a Cub Cadet 1250. I mowed the grass for the first time today with it and what a mower! I had to do some work on the deck and I am wondering if the bearing ball on the 44A deck I have are still available new and can the bearings just be pressed off and new ones pressed on?
Terry Wible
Pennsylvania

 

[digger]

Greg P.

 

[digger]

Marshall J.
Richard C. did a write for repairing them a while back. CLICK HERE
And yes you can still buy them new.

Terry W.
Did ya check the Parts Lookup Button above?

 

[dmerkle]

Greg P.
Here are a few pictures from throttle to carb:
Dash:

Under dash-(cable to rear of tractor):

throttle cable support:

throttle cable connected to motor-governor spring-lower governor arm:

governor arm to carb:

 

[mgerecke]

What is involved in rebuilding my starter/generator on my 149? It seems to work ok currently, but I would like to put new brushes in it. I purchased a kit that came with new brushes, 2 small springs and 2 large sealed bearings. Also I purchased the kit for the A & F terminals with all the washers and the plastic pieces that go through the outer case.
Hopefully the sealed bearings are not pressed on the shaft or something. I have never had one of these apart.
Any advise would be appreciated.

Mark

 

[gpapa]

Thanks for the 100 throttle pics. They helped, mine has the wrong throttle control on it.

 

[kwingerson]

Ron S.

Thanks for the ideas about lighting on a 149. I'll go through your list and see what happens.

 

[kmcconaughey]

What a great day, I made lots of progress on the Killer Kohler 125 and Original refurb projects. Beautiful weather, I got up early and drove over to visit with Art and pick up a 105 roller and mower deck that I bought from him last winter. I also borrowed his steering removal tool. When I got home I unloaded the 105 roller and mower deck. I then tried out the steering removal tool and got the stubborn steering wheel off of my #1 125 with just 3 hits so I tried it on one of my parts Cubs that I've been spraying PB Blaster. It only took a few hits and the steering wheel was off.

I then decided it was a nice day to sandblast more parts so I cleaned up the grill screen and some of the headlight parts for the Original, primed them and painted them. Then I got really ambitious so I decided to get the fuel tank cleaned up for the Killer Kohler. I used soapy water and drywall screws and shook the tank like crazy then rinsed it out. I then used the method that Eric Lewis wrote up using a 50/50 solution of muriatic acid. Then LOTS of rinsing and a bunch of time with a hair drier to dry the tank. Then I used some oil to prevent it from rusting again until I put it back in service on the Killer Kohler. I used 2 cycle snowmobile oil in the tank as I figured any residual would burn better then motor oil, I poured a pint or so in and rolled the tank all around to fully coat the insides.

 

[aaytay]

Kraig-
Glad the steering wheel removal "tool" worked for you.

Now go to sleep so you can show up tomorrow (later today?) and pull some steering wheels off these 100's I have sitting here!

There's cold beer ("root" & regular) and fresh brats in the fridge.

 

[sleggett]

I went to my local hardware store and they ordered the Hillman 58087 thrust bearing. I picked them up yesterday, they are 1/4x7/16x1/16 washers. This is for the throttle shaft, shouldn't they be thicker than 1/16? I haven't pulled the carb apart yet, so I don't know whats in it. Could someone confirm the correct thickness, I would think it should be thicker than 1/16. Mine are very dull looking brass. Special order from Clark and Barlow, 10 for $13.70, $4.50 of that is freight. Same thing at Ace Hardware is $0.65 each OUCH! The guy that took my order was not there, I will call Monday.
Thanks.
Anna and I also enjoyed RPRU, Paul Bell, you were busy talking with someone the times Anna and I came buy (didn't want to interrupt), and Tim Delooza was trying to explain to a guy that the Cubette was a reproduction of a mockup, and there were no attachments made for it. We did meet Dale Merkle, had a wonderful chat, lots to see, good time.

 

[rbedell]

Steven L:

The Kohler Carb Kit, KH-25-158-02-S is the correct part and is still available from your local CC or Kohler Dealer.

}

 

[sleggett]

Thanks Roland