Ed S., cool cannon!!!
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Archive through June 20, 2004
- Thread starter kehrecke
- Start date
Help Support IH Cub Cadet Forum:
Jeff R., where have you been hiding? Long time no post!
RICHARD C. - I second Your first comments on Your last post! I did a refurbish on My 38" deck just like yours many years ago, maybe 15-16. I used about 12 Ga steel 2" wide for the baffle as well. And I cut a pie-shaped slice out of the top of the deck by the discharge chute and welded it back in on the top of the discharge chute so it's wider like the 44" & 50" decks. I radiused the right hand side of the deck so there was only 1/8"-3/16" clearance to the blade tips. And I cut, bent, & welded roller brackets onto the front lip of the deck and totally removed the skid runners. Deck skin also didn't let the blade tips meet so a little gentile pursuasion where the spindle housing bolt to the deck skin was required. Mows fine now. I also bolted a horizontal lip to the back side of the front edge of the deck to provide a larger channel for clipping to get out of the deck. I "Borrowed" that idea from a newer designed deck someone stamps for this lawnmower plant IN the Swamp up north & east of Milwaukee.
AND..... As My contribution to OFF TOPIC comments.....GO SCHUMMY....
I got home from the F-1 race at INDY about 10:30 last night. GREAT WEEKEND!!! RED CARS RULE BABY!!
Schummy has 7 wins in 8 races, even though I thing Barricello let Schummy win yesterday! Rubins' was FAST.
AND..... As My contribution to OFF TOPIC comments.....GO SCHUMMY....
kweimann
Well-known member
- Joined
- Nov 11, 2001
- Messages
- 210
- displayname
- Kenny Weimann
David,
I'm putting a hot rodded 16 into my 1000. Just make sure you have the correct block on your replacement engine that takes the side mount dipstick and has the tapped hole in the front of the fins (pto side) for the muffler box. Other than swapping sheet metal it should be an easy swap. Kenny
I'm putting a hot rodded 16 into my 1000. Just make sure you have the correct block on your replacement engine that takes the side mount dipstick and has the tapped hole in the front of the fins (pto side) for the muffler box. Other than swapping sheet metal it should be an easy swap. Kenny
David:
You'll also want to make sure that the block you get has holes drilled & tapped on the PTO face of the block to accept the electric PTO clutch. Many of the 1x8/9 series engines with the starter/generator do not have these holes.
Keith
You'll also want to make sure that the block you get has holes drilled & tapped on the PTO face of the block to accept the electric PTO clutch. Many of the 1x8/9 series engines with the starter/generator do not have these holes.
Keith
rchristensen
Well-known member
- Joined
- Aug 12, 2006
- Messages
- 933
- displayname
- Richard Christensen
James Shannon
I have rebuilt a bunch of Cubs and the 1450 is probably one of my favorites. I don't do a true restoration, just a rebuild to try and make them look and run as good as new. I'm not concerned if the bolts are IH or not, just that they are as good. This is the method I use and I am satisfied with it. If you don’t already have the manuals for your tractor I recommend you get them.
This got to long so I have to split it in two parts.
1. I use my digital camera and take pictures of everything as I tear it down, this was more important on the first ones, now I can almost do it in the dark.
2. I keep a log of everything I replace or adjust so I have a record of everything done for future reference.
3. Remove hood, grill, battery, fenders and then use a pressure washer to clean up everything. Observe the Hydro for large oil buildup and try to determine if you see a spot where a seal is leaking. I like to clean up the hydro real good, put the cub on jack stands, hook up the battery and run the tractor and check for hydro leaks. There is a cork gasket between the hydro and the rear end. One seal on the front of the hydro, one seal on the rear of the hydro, and one on each side of the trunion shaft.
4. Remove all fluids.
5. Remove gas tank, engine.
6. Remove steering wheel, hydraulic controls, steering sector, and fiberglass dash.
7. Remove front axle.
8. With frame upside down check the cross piece that the rear mower frame connects to, they are usually worn if they have been used a lot. Re-weld and grind back to original shape.
Sometimes you may find the frame cracked in front of the front cross member. You want to make a good visual inspection of everything before you start the rebuild.
9. From here on it depends on how far you want to go. You may want to strip down everything, sand blast and repaint, or you may just want to do a clean up, touch up repaint and put back together. Each person must decide for themselves.
I have rebuilt a bunch of Cubs and the 1450 is probably one of my favorites. I don't do a true restoration, just a rebuild to try and make them look and run as good as new. I'm not concerned if the bolts are IH or not, just that they are as good. This is the method I use and I am satisfied with it. If you don’t already have the manuals for your tractor I recommend you get them.
This got to long so I have to split it in two parts.
1. I use my digital camera and take pictures of everything as I tear it down, this was more important on the first ones, now I can almost do it in the dark.
2. I keep a log of everything I replace or adjust so I have a record of everything done for future reference.
3. Remove hood, grill, battery, fenders and then use a pressure washer to clean up everything. Observe the Hydro for large oil buildup and try to determine if you see a spot where a seal is leaking. I like to clean up the hydro real good, put the cub on jack stands, hook up the battery and run the tractor and check for hydro leaks. There is a cork gasket between the hydro and the rear end. One seal on the front of the hydro, one seal on the rear of the hydro, and one on each side of the trunion shaft.
4. Remove all fluids.
5. Remove gas tank, engine.
6. Remove steering wheel, hydraulic controls, steering sector, and fiberglass dash.
7. Remove front axle.
8. With frame upside down check the cross piece that the rear mower frame connects to, they are usually worn if they have been used a lot. Re-weld and grind back to original shape.
Sometimes you may find the frame cracked in front of the front cross member. You want to make a good visual inspection of everything before you start the rebuild.
9. From here on it depends on how far you want to go. You may want to strip down everything, sand blast and repaint, or you may just want to do a clean up, touch up repaint and put back together. Each person must decide for themselves.
rchristensen
Well-known member
- Joined
- Aug 12, 2006
- Messages
- 933
- displayname
- Richard Christensen
James Shannon
Here is part two.
Some things I recommend before you start to put it back together.
10. Check the trunion shaft bracket and it will probably be worn, re-weld it and restore it to the original size. Replace worn pins and check the springs.
11. Remove the hydro from the rear end and replace the cork gasket. I prefer to build my own out of Neopreme. This picture is one on a 782; the ones for a 1450 have an additional three small holes in them.
12. Rebuild the steering sector, check out the FAQ.
13. When you replace the front axle check the pin for wear, squeeze the cross member together with a bolt until the front axle will just slip in, this will remove slop in the steering. Some have used a bolt to replace the pin but then you need to grind the back of the bolt so you have clearance between the cross member and the engine.
14. Replace the bad steering ball joints. If they look good I will clean them with WD-40 and when I get all of the junk out of them I will spray them with Teflon Dry Lubricant.
15. Under the dash I remove, clean, replace and adjust the hydro controls for proper resistance. Remove clean and reinstall all electrical connections, replacing any bad connectors.
16. Replace the hydro fan, replace the drive shaft flexible rubbers, and more often than not will replace the bushings on the front and rear of the drive shaft.
17. When you have the front axle and the steering sector all installed you want to set the front tow in to 1/8 inch, it is much easier to do it before you re-install the engine.
18. Remove clean and re-install the PTO following the procedures in your manual.
19. Do the rail mod before you re-install the engine.
This may give you and idea of some of the steps I take, each tractor is different and everybody uses different approaches.
Here is part two.
Some things I recommend before you start to put it back together.
10. Check the trunion shaft bracket and it will probably be worn, re-weld it and restore it to the original size. Replace worn pins and check the springs.
11. Remove the hydro from the rear end and replace the cork gasket. I prefer to build my own out of Neopreme. This picture is one on a 782; the ones for a 1450 have an additional three small holes in them.
12. Rebuild the steering sector, check out the FAQ.
13. When you replace the front axle check the pin for wear, squeeze the cross member together with a bolt until the front axle will just slip in, this will remove slop in the steering. Some have used a bolt to replace the pin but then you need to grind the back of the bolt so you have clearance between the cross member and the engine.
14. Replace the bad steering ball joints. If they look good I will clean them with WD-40 and when I get all of the junk out of them I will spray them with Teflon Dry Lubricant.
15. Under the dash I remove, clean, replace and adjust the hydro controls for proper resistance. Remove clean and reinstall all electrical connections, replacing any bad connectors.
16. Replace the hydro fan, replace the drive shaft flexible rubbers, and more often than not will replace the bushings on the front and rear of the drive shaft.
17. When you have the front axle and the steering sector all installed you want to set the front tow in to 1/8 inch, it is much easier to do it before you re-install the engine.
18. Remove clean and re-install the PTO following the procedures in your manual.
19. Do the rail mod before you re-install the engine.
This may give you and idea of some of the steps I take, each tractor is different and everybody uses different approaches.
- Joined
- Aug 31, 2006
- Messages
- 3,290
- displayname
- Home of the Plow Special
Can you say...<font size="+2">FAQ material?!?!??!</font>
Nice write-up Richard!
Nice write-up Richard!
<font size="+2">FAQ material?!?!??!</font>
What Art wrote!!!!!
)
What Art wrote!!!!!
)
At the risk of being chewed out about the F&Q, I have a question. Will somebody explain the front pto clutch friction disk spring. The service manual shows the installing position and that's all I can find about the spring. The pto clutch is on a 149.
Bill
Bill
Boner!
COOL!
Now you can name'um, Get off and Stay off!
COOL!
Now you can name'um, Get off and Stay off!
