Archive through June 17, 2010

[jjohn]

Hey Everyone, Just joined the forum the other day because I acquired a 125 with a K301 motor. It'll start up but will sputter and die after about 20 min of mowing (full throttle). My guess is that it is getting hot, yet it has plenty of oil in it. I am hoping to get a couple ideas of what to take a look at.

 

[hydroharry]

Hey there Jimmy John - welcome to the Forum. I see you're out in that mile high area. Cubs don't work well at that altitude so I would suggest selling it for a less than reasonable price. My brother is over in the Springs and probably could pick it up.

I'd suggest starting with the usual things - like making sure the cooling fins aren't completely blocked up. Then I would check the point gap and timing. Then you might want to go to the carb to see if it's running to lean.

Hydro Harry
Old Cubs Never Die (but have difficulty if their clock is out of sync)

 

[jmacdonald]

Well it immediately started right up I didn't even need to choke it (unusual for me). Ran super good. Mowed the small front lawn, and hated to stop. I am letting it cool then the retorque.

 

[jjohn]

Thanks for the tips Hydro Harry. I will give those a try. I will also keep your brother in mind if I get to the point of selling it "for a less than reasonable price".

 

[rfuller]

I noticed awhile ago on here that someone was having a problem with replacing a lip seal. Is it normal for a lip seal to go out on the K-series engines before they need an overhaul? Might be worth looking into maybe an upgrade to a better seal if you are overhauling? Just thought it might be a good topic to discuss.

 

[hydroharry]

Jimmy John - since Cubs don't work well in that altitude, a less than reasonable price may mean you'll have to give it away. Please send me your address and I'll at least have my brother pick it up. He's just a little higher up than you so at his altitude I doubt it will even run, but it will make a nice looking lawn orniment. Let us know how you make out after checking things.

James MacD - I'm a little surprised you didn't need to choke it, but when the older units with S/Gs, are really set up right, they start "almost" before you turn the key. Sounds to me like yours is dang near perfect. Now, for the importance of re-torquing the head bolts - my very first rebuild had an oil leak. It started perfect, ran perfect, but left me a small spot on the concrete over nite. I first thought it was the valve cover. I had painted the engine black and couldn't see a leak but it just had to be there. I changed the valve cover twice and still ended up with a small but growing spot on my floor. THEN I figured it must be the oil pan so I jerked the dang engine off that 122 and pulled the pan, changed the gasket, put her back together, run her and she was perfect. Next day the spot was there. I just couldn't figure it out. Then I figured I better take ALL that tin work off and see if I could find a crack or something someplace. I got most of it off and went for the head bolts. I COULD NOT BELIEVE IT!!!!! The head bolts were only finger tight. I had forgotten to re-torque them!!!! It wasn't until I had all the tin work off and the head off that I could see the oil leak down the side of the block, just a very very faint little stream, and it only leaked when the engine was running of course so it nearly dissappeared after sitting. Well, I went over the head bolt torque, put the tin work back on, ran her several times and left a nice clean cloth on the floor under her BUT she never had another accident. I pulled the tin and did another retorque just to make sure. I think the Kohler manual may actually tell you to use new Head bolts, but don't know if anyone ever does. Even then you need to re-torque after at least 15-30 minutes run time.

Take the time to take the tin work off and retorque that head. It will be easier to re-install the tin work after you've had the practice.

Hydro Harry
Old Cubs Never Die (but have been known to leave spots on your floor)

 

[mgonitzke]

Rob F.-

It's very common for seals to go bad before the engine needs rebuilding. You won't find a better seal...they're cheap and easy to replace. They generally last quite awhile anyway.

 

[jderstine]

WOO-HOO

I got some time to work on the 122 tonight. Changed the oil ( it might have been ok, it was only sitting for 10 or 12 YEARS

)

I grabbed the battery out of the 125 and tried to start it ( after cleaning all the varnished gas out earlier in the week ). It would turn over but didn't sound like it was trying. Took out the Champion plug and put in an old Autolite plug that came out of the 125.

Started right up. Drove around the yard and even engaged the mower deck for about thrity seconds. The low range works good too.

Now, I have a couple of questions. I'm going to pull apart my 125 to rebuild the K301.

Will the mower deck from the 125 hook right up to the 122? The mule drive looks slightly different ( the reasoning here is that I know everything is fine with the 125 mower deck--the 122 is a complete unknown. Both are cast iron end 42" decks. )

As far as teardown and reassembly, is that in the Cub Faqs or must I do a search? If I need to do a search, what do you suggest for key words?

Thanks
Jeff

 

[jbliler]

Nuts!!! The 149 throws a fit again. When turning the key I get ONE click then nothing battery checks out at 12.6. Have wandered about the solenoid before but fought with the key switch. Any ideas?

 

[hydroharry]

Jerry Jerry Jerry - com'on now. Just because the battery has 12.6V doesn't mean it's got enough amps. 1st, try jumping it. If that works, then most likely the battery is at least dead, and likely gone. You could try charging it and see. Otherwise, it's time for a Waly-mart special in my book - but get the $25 one with 350CCA. If'n it ain't the battery, then try jumping past the solenoid. If that works and it starts then it's probably the solenoid, but I guess could be the keyswitch as well. I'm not good enough to know if it's the switch, other than to suggest you could jumper the wires in the connector that goes to the switch (real pain to get at tho) and you need the wiring diagram to know which is which.
Good luck with it, and don't be throwing any of those brown glass tools at it (unless they're empty).

Hydro Harry
Old Cubs Never Die (except if they get transplanted from Idaho to Missouri)