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Archive through June 16, 2010

IH Cub Cadet Forum

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Steve Y - nice little herd there. Especially nice looking 149 or is it 2 of them (but ya left the dang foot brake unlocked and it might just run away from ya). And that's some darn nice looking grass in that outside shot.

Here's one I need some help from "ya'll" - As long as I've been around (except for the years I skipped out) I've never found, seen pictures of, heard anyone talk about "An Operators Manual for a CC 169". Even with it's late introduction and limited production I feel certain IH made an Operators Manual that actually lists 169 on the cover. I've only ever seen one listing 86... up to 149 BUT NO 169. Have any of you seen one, got one, got a pic of one????

Kraig - oh great keeper of the photos - do YOU have one????

I know there ain't much difference (only 2 horse power) BUT that's the BIG END 2 HORSES!!!

Hydro Harry
Old Cubs Never Die - except when the horses get loose
 
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Harry: See that pretty little ole colored box at the top of the page that says "Binder Books" ?? Click on it and order yourself one. IH pub 1 084 322 R1.

Myron B
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Bob-

I've never had a problem with the "fast" method...I just wire wheel the black residue off, and then I've got a few days to prime and paint before the flash rust comes back.
 
I ran my 122 for about a hour and a half at half to full trotle pulling a small trailer with a few sticks on a 94 degree day and the frame is so hot it will almost burn you the gen will burn you hood is very hot is this overheating if so I will check the timing?
 
LUCAS - For comparison, park your 122 in the sun not running for a couple hours on a 94 degree day and see how hot all those parts get.
 
I have a question for D tanner where do i get these tiers 3rib 16.5 x 6.5-8. I have not had much luck hear in Canada.
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Hydro Harry, I have scans of the same version manual that Myron posted. It does mention the 169 throughout the manual, not just on the cover.

Don T., thanks for the nice comments.
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However it wouldn't take much work to do a better paint job than what I did on my Original. That was just a rattle can paint job.
 
I'm no longer a Virgin!



My first electolysis!
I still couldn't find the A&H washing soda. I found 20 mule team borax but it lists sodium tetraborate as the main ingredient. I found generic dish washer powder with sodium carbonate as the main ingredient so I got that (using it now) and the borax. I can try the borax later unless one of you tell me otherwise!

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Some people say you need DC power so hook the charger to the battery then to the tank. Could you go directly from battery to tank and recharge the battery every night.

See anything wrong with my setup?
 
Dennis, I live in the woods so it was in the shade all day.On the static timing my timing light hole is on the oposit side of the engin that the points are on is this the right hole?
 
I can't believe how well this works. Yesterday I used the good paint stripper then pressure washed (1800psi and it puts out every bit of it) several pieces from the 71. Most of the paint came off but not all. My dash tower has been in this tank for 30 minutes and the water is filthy with rust and paint.

As we speak it is hooked to the battery only. Will this ruin my battery? I used stanless wire to connect everything and the anode + side is real hot. Is this normal?
 
JIM D. - I do that to keep KEN from having to be so GRUMPY.
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LUCAS - yes, the timing hole is behind the starter/generator on 122's/K301's. Either in the slum. backing plate or in the stamped steel blower housing. The timing mark on the K301 I had was a faint line cast into the back edge of the flywheel maybe 1/16th inch wide and however long the flange of the flywheel is/was. Best to find the mark and put some chalk, light colored paint, etc on the mark. I haven't read Matt's timing write-up but with my inductive timing light I just hook the two power leads to the battery, clip the sensor over the plug wire and aim at the timing mark hole and pull the trigger. Play with the point gap until the mark is centered in the window and your done.

It's REALLY tough to trouble-shoot these tuning questions. My "cart" I pull most of the time weights 600# empty and I normally load it to 2500-3000+ pounds gross. And my 982 runs a LOT harder mowing with the 50 inch deck than it ever does moving That cart. SO many variables.
 
One quick question can i use the solenoid from a 128 WF on a 127 NF. I have a spare one for the 128 but i need on one the 127, i have takin the battery out of the 127 and had it checked by parts store it tests good, i put it back in the 127 and it still will not spin over it will just click once and then do nothing. so next step was to replace the solenoid. Any input and advice is welcome.
 
ERIC - Have you checked the "Parts Look-up" above to see if they're both the same part number?
 
I am looking at changing my fuel filter on my 782? Any suggestion.
 
Steven - Yeah ... Use a NEW one !

Oh wait , You're LOOKING at changing ... well that's a different department.

Yeah - Use your hands and put a NEW one on it.
 
I need to go get some sleep ...

mmmm 2 threads on electrolysis ... Cascade works - why kill yourself trying to find something else ...
 

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