Archive through June 14, 2016

[hydroharry]

Steve - I posted about the 44A deck since Adam Vandervort had posted several things about the 44A deck, and then posted the following:
"Has anyone made there deck free floating like the simplicity decks. I loved my old deck on the simplicity."
It sounded as tho Adam was not aware of the Cub Cadet float feature. (I'm not familiar with Simplicity decks and how they may float).

Marlin - my vote is to make use of the 1650 hydraulic lift on your 129.

 

[jwiggins]

Has anyone here had Any Luck Restoring the Actual IH textured emblem's?

I haven't put my grill back on Since the Refurbish. The 149 is a Worker and I did elect to use the vinyl dash decal but for some strange Reason I just Can't bring myself to use the Vinyl decal on the Grill.

Maybe I'll stick the decal on grill for now and if I can get some Suggestions as far as bringing the Original Textured emblem back to life I can always put it on if I can figure a way to "NOT screw it up"

Thanks,

 

[digger]

Jason W.
Did ya notice that when he moved the lift lever his tractor lurched!

 

[jwiggins]

Charlie,

That didn't catch my Attention near as much as the Tractor going into Reverse and lunging backwards when the video clearly showed his hands were no where near the Speed control lever!!!

I think he was Driving it Forward AND Backwards with the Lift Handle!!!

He had a nice Blade and Planter hooked up Though.

EDIT: Also, speaking of All this Lurching and Lunging, I did as Matt G. Suggested and Cleaned all the Grease outta my trunion Repair

And as far as the copper fuel line, um well,,,

 

[hydroharry]

Jason - I can't see how a decal will hold up on the grill. These grills are known to warp some from heat and I'd think the decal would just melt as well.

Although it's been several years ago now, I did restore these metal emblems, but I started with ones that were in pretty good shape and a little better than yours appears. I'd tape off the outer silver and then painted black with a very fine brush (make sure to leave the circled R so it's clear this is an original part). Let it dry good for a couple days and then paint the red with a very fine brush. If you get any paint on the silver you can scrape it off later but it will show as scratches - just hope you don't get much on it.

 

[wsdrake]

Those darn quick attach springs are next too impossible to find anymore!

Charlie, do you still have any at all???

I may have come up with a work around for this. I will talk it out with Dad and see what he thinks....

 

[jwiggins]

Billy D.

If you find those Springs maybe you could let us know From Where?

Thanks!!!

 

[sblunier]

Copy the 82 series spring....easy fix/upgrade.

Hook one end of a short tension spring over the bail and the other over the top of the front frame member (under casting). I used this fix on my 149.....

 

[digger]

Steve is talking about this style, which works very well!

 

[kmcconaughey]

If it ever quits raining here I can check my parts Cubs for the QA springs. I might have up to 4 sets for narrow frames.

Not sure I would part with all 4 sets but I would likely part with some of them, provided I have as many as I think I might have...

 

[jwiggins]

Quick Attach / Spring Latch

IH Part # -R1 -R2 -R3 -R4 ?

According 2 "Cub Cadet Parts Look Up" at the very top of page above this post,

Spring Latch Part# IH-402344-R3

Fits:

Model 72
Model 73
Model 86
Model 104
Model 105
Model 106
Model 107
Model 108
Model 109
Model 124
Model 125
Model 126
Model 127
Model 128
Model 129
Model 147
Model 149
Model 800
Model 1000
Model 1100
Model 1200
Model 1250
Model 1450
Model 1650

--------------------

ALL Except FOR Model 169,,,,

Which shows Part# IH-402344

So What's up with the -R?

EDIT: Also I'm wondering why the 169 is Listed Separately

 

[wsdrake]

Hi all,

The 82 series fix may work well. Could someone upload a picture of how the 82 series spring attaches, the parts lookup for a 982 isn't real clear on how it is supposed to work...

Jason,

It appears you did the same thing Dad did when we put the blade on my 108. He just tied the lever up to the frame with a piece of wire.

If I can get this fix to work well, I will be able to fill in the holes I drilled in the frame to mount the mower deck mule drive. Also, if the 82 series fix works, I will be able to buy more attachments for it....

 

[jwiggins]

Billy D.

A few Post back I Requested info if you found the Springs, WHICH IS AGAINST FORUM RULES, IF USING ON-LINE VENDORS

To late to edit when I realized I fouled up.

So My Apologizes to Kraig & Charlie

 

[sblunier]

 

[hydroharry]

Jason - you haven't been a member of the site long enough to realize the "IH Cub Cadet Model 169" is a very very special unit. Only 4005 were built during mid-1974 (2nd lowest production unit), and it was the most powerful Cub Cadet produced at the time. And no it's not the same as a 149 just with a 16hp K341A engine. It has some unique features, like a Maintenance Minder (Hour Meter) that was standard, it's own unique muffler and air cleaner, and decals that say "169" but do "not" say Hydrostatic below these numbers. For years and years you could hardly find one and now several have been identified, and we have a Forum member that has the very first one produced. Hope this info may help answer your question about why the part no. for the QA springs for a 169 are listed separately (but honestly I think the "R" suffix update to the part number got missed).

 

[wsdrake]

Thanks Steve; this fix is going to be much easier than I thought.

I have read about the 169's online, and when I get even more curious I snoop through the 169 owners thread in the sandbox. I would LOVE to have one of those machines!

 

[wshytle]

A couple of weeks ago I posted about having charging issues with ole Smokey, a 124. I replaced the v/r with one from a 127 assuming they were/are the same. It started back charging and all was well until recently. Now I run the tractor for 20 minutes to maybe an hour then all of the sudden it spits and sputters then shuts down. I thought it may be overheating so today I dug into it far enough to find no mouse nest or anything. I put it all back together and was running the newly torqued head to operating temps after the first torque and noticed water coming from the battery. I got my meter and it showed 16.5 volts at the battery.

Could this overcharging cause the spitting and sputtering? It always starts just fine after cooling down. The s/g is working fine (I assume) since it's overcharging and cranks every time. Should I try yet another v/r?

.

 

[wshytle]

I may have solved my own problem. I put another v/r on Smokey and I'm now getting 13.7 volts to the battery.

I would still like to know if an electrical problem like this can cause it to eventually act like it's overheating and shut down. The engine probably has over 300,000 miles on it (or equivalent) but still runs like a sewing machine. I have been using this 124 for at least 3 years fairly steadily. I have to retorque the head in the morning and might again answer my own question after using it a bit.

.

 

[elamott]

129 electrical problems
My 129 has an electrical problem. All of a sudden I have no spark. I have changed points, condenser and swapped coils (used ones). I checked the plus side for power and is OK. An interesting thing (for me) is when I put my meter on the plus side of the coil,it shows close to 12 volts when the points are open but when the points close the positive side goes dead. This happens on both of my coils. This doesn't seem right to me but I am not sure. On the negative side of coil is the same, open I have power and closed nothing
Any comments greatly appreciated
Earl LaMott

 

[sblunier]

Loaded for Red Power!!!!!!