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Archive through June 14, 2010
- Thread starter bproctor
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Help Support IH Cub Cadet Forum:
tbitterman
Member
- Joined
- Dec 9, 2004
- Messages
- 13
- displayname
- Tom Bitterman
I thought I had already posted this but I must have X out. I am wondering if there were any reproduction seat covers for a 122 that are available. I know you can get several different types of replacement seat covers an I am hoping that we can still get this one.
Thanks, Tom
Thanks, Tom
Bob P.,
On later models, such as my '69 127 and '71 129, there is a a sintered metal plug vent located there that does act as a pressure release vent preventing heat/pressure from building up inside the differental/transmission. Without it, the operational heat would build pressure inside the housing and would put a strain on the housing seals and gaskets. You can see it in the CUB CADET PARTS LOOK UP illustrations. In the Transmission case assembly, it is called a vent breather, #17.
Ryan Wilke
On later models, such as my '69 127 and '71 129, there is a a sintered metal plug vent located there that does act as a pressure release vent preventing heat/pressure from building up inside the differental/transmission. Without it, the operational heat would build pressure inside the housing and would put a strain on the housing seals and gaskets. You can see it in the CUB CADET PARTS LOOK UP illustrations. In the Transmission case assembly, it is called a vent breather, #17.
Ryan Wilke
Tom, does your 122 still have the fiberglass pan seat on it? If so, you can use a regular large pan seat cover on it. For the seat on one of my 125s I picked up a black cover from Fleet Farm (a regional farm supply, clothing, sporting goods store). I also added an extra piece of foam under it for added padding. This cover is designed for full size tractor pan seats not the smaller Cub Cadet metal pan seat.
Bob, Ryan, that is only a breather on the Hydrostatic rears not the gear drive rears. It is just a shallow hole on the gear drives it is not drilled all the way through.
Tom, as for reproduction covers, as far as I know, none are available. However, you can have them reupholstered. Here's one that I had redone. They have to put a seam in it but I rather like the detail. What ever you do, save the blue edging to reuse as it is no longer available.
RYAN - Actually, the baffle is 2-1/2" tall, deck is 40-1/2" wide over-all. I have some tight spots around trees & stuff where this deck barely fits or I have to weed-eat.
The lip on the inside of the deck creates a channel for clippings to exit the deck from. My deck actually didn't have runners or the end piece on the left side when I bought the tractor/deck back in Jan. '81. That's the problem with owning things so long, too many chances to "Improve" them along the way. With the runners I've had on other decks like my 44A & 50C when turning on uneven ground the runners gouge the ground. Those spherical wheels on the front will not. The "roller" on the frt of the deck was really worn, hole in the center wallowed out. I just cut some sections of 2X4 with a hole saw as large as I could fit on the 1/2" bolt and still clear the nose of the deck, sanded them up a bit and they've worn nicely for over 20 yrs. I put a similar but wider roller under my 50C deck spring of '09 like Steve B did. But I used some scrap Oak for them. Roller on it is about 10 inches wide, located right behind the center blade. It REALLY helps keep it from scalping. I have replaced the spherical wheels one time since I installed them. They wore a flat spot across them about 2 in. wide. The wheels on there now are the newer "Heavy-Duty" ones with greasable bronze bushings. The old wheels became castering gauge wheels on my home-made dethatcher for the 3-pt on the 982
Those blades are for use with my lawn vac, not normal mowing. I have a couple sets of "Standard" blades for mowing. And yes, with the mod's and those blades it REALLY throws grass and pulls REALLY hard. Even with standard blades it throws grass at least 5-6 feet clear of the edge of the deck but seems to pull relatively easy until the grass gets 6-8" tall. It doesn't seem to waste HP trying to get the clippings out of the deck. As long as the grass is dry it will not windrow like most IH decks do in taller grass. If the grass is 10-12 inches tall then "maybe", but only sometimes, not a steady windrow.
I pulled the vac for several years with the K241 and if the grass was more than 4 inches tall I had to take half a swath even in 1st gear. With the K321 I have to be careful or I plug the tube from the deck to the blower/vac from too much volume of clippings. What's really NEAT to watch in the fall when vacuuming leaves is sometimes a full-sized leaf will roll & blow around in front of the deck for a second before it gets "SUCKED" into the deck. I have something like 60 Maple, Oak, Locust, Ash, and Birch trees that are getting REALLY big. Leaf removal in the fall is a really B-I-G deal.
I made a comment Friday that I didn't have to add steel to the left side away from the discharge chute, but I did. If you look closely at pic #4 you can see the weld at the back of the deck and the piece of added steel ends right about where the lip starts. I have a spare "bracket" that I made to hold the frt lip on and I looked for half an hour for it to take a pic and gave up.
The 44" & 50" decks already have a lot of these improvements except for the frt lip. They have a bigger discharge chute, the MTD kit for the guage wheels, etc. I think they would benefit from the lip also, but I'd add more mounting brackets to reinforce the front face. Maybe some day I'll mod-up a 44" deck for the 72. It's got the HP to pull one easily, just need to find the right combination of deck & mule drive to make it work.
The lip on the inside of the deck creates a channel for clippings to exit the deck from. My deck actually didn't have runners or the end piece on the left side when I bought the tractor/deck back in Jan. '81. That's the problem with owning things so long, too many chances to "Improve" them along the way. With the runners I've had on other decks like my 44A & 50C when turning on uneven ground the runners gouge the ground. Those spherical wheels on the front will not. The "roller" on the frt of the deck was really worn, hole in the center wallowed out. I just cut some sections of 2X4 with a hole saw as large as I could fit on the 1/2" bolt and still clear the nose of the deck, sanded them up a bit and they've worn nicely for over 20 yrs. I put a similar but wider roller under my 50C deck spring of '09 like Steve B did. But I used some scrap Oak for them. Roller on it is about 10 inches wide, located right behind the center blade. It REALLY helps keep it from scalping. I have replaced the spherical wheels one time since I installed them. They wore a flat spot across them about 2 in. wide. The wheels on there now are the newer "Heavy-Duty" ones with greasable bronze bushings. The old wheels became castering gauge wheels on my home-made dethatcher for the 3-pt on the 982
Those blades are for use with my lawn vac, not normal mowing. I have a couple sets of "Standard" blades for mowing. And yes, with the mod's and those blades it REALLY throws grass and pulls REALLY hard. Even with standard blades it throws grass at least 5-6 feet clear of the edge of the deck but seems to pull relatively easy until the grass gets 6-8" tall. It doesn't seem to waste HP trying to get the clippings out of the deck. As long as the grass is dry it will not windrow like most IH decks do in taller grass. If the grass is 10-12 inches tall then "maybe", but only sometimes, not a steady windrow.
I pulled the vac for several years with the K241 and if the grass was more than 4 inches tall I had to take half a swath even in 1st gear. With the K321 I have to be careful or I plug the tube from the deck to the blower/vac from too much volume of clippings. What's really NEAT to watch in the fall when vacuuming leaves is sometimes a full-sized leaf will roll & blow around in front of the deck for a second before it gets "SUCKED" into the deck. I have something like 60 Maple, Oak, Locust, Ash, and Birch trees that are getting REALLY big. Leaf removal in the fall is a really B-I-G deal.
I made a comment Friday that I didn't have to add steel to the left side away from the discharge chute, but I did. If you look closely at pic #4 you can see the weld at the back of the deck and the piece of added steel ends right about where the lip starts. I have a spare "bracket" that I made to hold the frt lip on and I looked for half an hour for it to take a pic and gave up.
The 44" & 50" decks already have a lot of these improvements except for the frt lip. They have a bigger discharge chute, the MTD kit for the guage wheels, etc. I think they would benefit from the lip also, but I'd add more mounting brackets to reinforce the front face. Maybe some day I'll mod-up a 44" deck for the 72. It's got the HP to pull one easily, just need to find the right combination of deck & mule drive to make it work.
Bob, I have no clue as to what those studs on the front of your reduction housing are for. The Plexiglas is an insulator for the custom rear mount battery, which BTW was installed by a previous owner which was a large corporation in St. Paul, MN. The previous owner also added the rear slab weights. They did a poor design on the weight bracket as it was just bolted to the sheet metal fenders causing them to sag. I added the lower supports across the original draw bar and up to the axles. I also added the extended draw bar.
Dennis F.,
THANKS AGAIN FOR ALL THE INFORMATION ON YOUR DECK MODIFICATIONS! Let me digest all of that...(it's likely I may have more questions).
Kraig McC.,
I didn't realize that the housing vent breather was Hydrostatic-only thingy... I never thought about that being the case.
Ryan Wilke
THANKS AGAIN FOR ALL THE INFORMATION ON YOUR DECK MODIFICATIONS! Let me digest all of that...(it's likely I may have more questions).
Kraig McC.,
I didn't realize that the housing vent breather was Hydrostatic-only thingy... I never thought about that being the case.
Ryan Wilke
tbitterman
Member
- Joined
- Dec 9, 2004
- Messages
- 13
- displayname
- Tom Bitterman
Hi kraig, I really like the looks of that seat. Very nice detail, probably looks better than th original!!
Tom
Tom
Why I'm getting gray. They see me comin a mile away. This is what happened from the dealer when I asked about the cable from spark to the coil. I told them (with cable in hand) that it would not stay in the coil. Do they have a replacement terminal? No. I was told I needed a full replacement cable. It was $24.00. On the way home I stopped at NAPA. New matching terminal $1.59. Now that I can see what it is supposed to look like I may be able to bend the existing terminal back to something like the original configuration. By the way, the cable at NAPA is $4.00 if I need to replace it .
mgwin
Well-known member
Gary,
Kirk Engines (one of the fine sponsors above) sells a super nice ignition wire for only 8 bucks. It's even CC yellow! Check it out along with the other sponsors.
Kirk Engines (one of the fine sponsors above) sells a super nice ignition wire for only 8 bucks. It's even CC yellow! Check it out along with the other sponsors.
tdaugherty
Well-known member
- Joined
- Aug 12, 2009
- Messages
- 122
- displayname
- Tim Daugherty
Hey Y'all
I have a question concerning my 67' 124. I would like to remove the engine to rebuild it, give it some new "organs". However i need to disconnect the clutch shaft from the engine, so how do i go about doing that? I want the clutch to remain in the tractor, just need the motor, and the starter/generator together. If someone has a diagram on how to do this, id appriciate it. Thanks!
I have a question concerning my 67' 124. I would like to remove the engine to rebuild it, give it some new "organs". However i need to disconnect the clutch shaft from the engine, so how do i go about doing that? I want the clutch to remain in the tractor, just need the motor, and the starter/generator together. If someone has a diagram on how to do this, id appriciate it. Thanks!
