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Archive through June 14, 2010
- Thread starter bproctor
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Help Support IH Cub Cadet Forum:
Well, 6 hours of running the parts washer with the carb and gas tank in sure didn't do much of anything.
I stopped over at my local Western Auto which is where the long time small engine mechanic works. He suggested using Berkabile 2+2 Gum Cutter to clean the carb. 1/2 a can later, I had a nice clean carb. I was completely surprised.
Put the carb back together and it fired right up
Now I just have to find the correct settings for the carb. The main jet was set at 3 turns out and the other was at 2-1/4 turns out.
What would be a good starting point?
Thanks
Jeff
I stopped over at my local Western Auto which is where the long time small engine mechanic works. He suggested using Berkabile 2+2 Gum Cutter to clean the carb. 1/2 a can later, I had a nice clean carb. I was completely surprised.
Put the carb back together and it fired right up
Now I just have to find the correct settings for the carb. The main jet was set at 3 turns out and the other was at 2-1/4 turns out.
What would be a good starting point?
Thanks
Jeff
Was mowing earlier this week with the 125 with a K301 that was out of a 124, and heard some knocking for the last couple minutes, but it was still running and cutting. I shut 'er down. A couple days later today, I cranked the engine to get it to start. I saw spinning and heard "chuffing", but no cranking or apparent compression. When I pulled the spark plug and cranked the engine I enjoyed little blasts of air, and I decided that the piston was still good. Then, I pulled the camshaft cover, with some difficulty as this is of course a narrow frame zig-zag tractor. Here's what I found:
Has anyone experienced a stripped camshaft?? I know now that the rattling/knocking was the cam running on 1-2 missing teeth, with more being busted every second. I was shocked to hand-crank the engine over and to not see the cam moving. That's when I manually turned the cam and had that sinking feeling...
Has anyone experienced a stripped camshaft?? I know now that the rattling/knocking was the cam running on 1-2 missing teeth, with more being busted every second. I was shocked to hand-crank the engine over and to not see the cam moving. That's when I manually turned the cam and had that sinking feeling...
My 1961 IH original Cub Cadet turns over but will not start. I don't seem to have spark at the plug. I have a live circuit to the + side of the coil with the key on. I don't know how to check the coil or capacitor. Any suggestions?
hydroharry
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- Harry Bursell
Gary S - on your 1450, keep your old plug wire handy. In your pic you show a black wire and state it's the old wire. The terminal you show with the black rounded cover slid back is for the coil and looks fine to me in the pic (in fact it looks exceptional if it's used). If it fits lose in the coil just spread that connector opening a bit so it's snug when you push it in. On the plug connector end, if it's loos you have to do the opposite - squeeze the connector slightly so it goes onto the plug tightly.
I'm still not clear on your main problem based on your additional information BUT it sounds to me like you're not able to get the engine up to full speed. In effect, you're trying to drive the tractor at idle or just above a low idle with the hydro at full speed. It will certainly bog down on a hill, and it might spit and sputter even on flat ground. I have to believe your throttle cable is not positioned correctly in the clamp, or it's slipping in the clamp. The clamp is located on the side of the engine below and to the right of the valve cover. You have to have the entire air cleaner off to see the throttle cable clamp and to really get at the screw. The choke cable is clamped in the same spot with the same clamp. When setting this cable in the correct position you have to watch the throttle linkage on the carb. 1st, make sure your throttle handle on the dash is in the idle position. 2nd, slide the throttle cable back in the clamp until you see the throttle linkage on the carb just begin to move off the idle speed stop screw, then move the throttle cable forward until the carb throttle linkage is back at the idle stop screw. This puts your carb at idle, your dash control is at idle, and your cable will be set so you can move your dash control from idle to full throttle. (Sometimes the dash control lever won't move the entire distance of the slot opening, but lets make sure your tractor is working correctly before we go into some fine tuning).
If this is not your problem (and I'm 95% certain it is if you're not getting full throttle engine speed), then I have some fear that when you removed the drive shaft to replace the fan, you did something to the hydro connection. I'm hoping you have the double rubber disc joint.
Let us know on the above. I'm not the expert but there are enough of us on here that we WILL figure this out (and you won't be wanting to join that other guy with a 1450 in the For Sale listings, because his overheats).
Kraig - Keeper of the Photos - Old Extold One - any chance you have a pic of that Throttle and Choke clamp used on the side of a Kohler AQS engine. I think Gary could certainly use a pic here.
Hydro Harry
Old Cubs Never Die - sometimes the throttle cable slips a little and they sputter, but with the right screwdriver THEY DO return to life.
I'm still not clear on your main problem based on your additional information BUT it sounds to me like you're not able to get the engine up to full speed. In effect, you're trying to drive the tractor at idle or just above a low idle with the hydro at full speed. It will certainly bog down on a hill, and it might spit and sputter even on flat ground. I have to believe your throttle cable is not positioned correctly in the clamp, or it's slipping in the clamp. The clamp is located on the side of the engine below and to the right of the valve cover. You have to have the entire air cleaner off to see the throttle cable clamp and to really get at the screw. The choke cable is clamped in the same spot with the same clamp. When setting this cable in the correct position you have to watch the throttle linkage on the carb. 1st, make sure your throttle handle on the dash is in the idle position. 2nd, slide the throttle cable back in the clamp until you see the throttle linkage on the carb just begin to move off the idle speed stop screw, then move the throttle cable forward until the carb throttle linkage is back at the idle stop screw. This puts your carb at idle, your dash control is at idle, and your cable will be set so you can move your dash control from idle to full throttle. (Sometimes the dash control lever won't move the entire distance of the slot opening, but lets make sure your tractor is working correctly before we go into some fine tuning).
If this is not your problem (and I'm 95% certain it is if you're not getting full throttle engine speed), then I have some fear that when you removed the drive shaft to replace the fan, you did something to the hydro connection. I'm hoping you have the double rubber disc joint.
Let us know on the above. I'm not the expert but there are enough of us on here that we WILL figure this out (and you won't be wanting to join that other guy with a 1450 in the For Sale listings, because his overheats).
Kraig - Keeper of the Photos - Old Extold One - any chance you have a pic of that Throttle and Choke clamp used on the side of a Kohler AQS engine. I think Gary could certainly use a pic here.
Hydro Harry
Old Cubs Never Die - sometimes the throttle cable slips a little and they sputter, but with the right screwdriver THEY DO return to life.
Gary S
Let us know as soon as you try the repaired or new wire. Did it work?
I'm with Harry on the pics. Take close up pics of the entire engine. Two or three should do it. Someone might spot something like the cables.
I'm sure if you can put that fan on, you can resolve this little issue with help from this forum.
Let us know as soon as you try the repaired or new wire. Did it work?
I'm with Harry on the pics. Take close up pics of the entire engine. Two or three should do it. Someone might spot something like the cables.
I'm sure if you can put that fan on, you can resolve this little issue with help from this forum.
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- Allen Schumacher
Craigs gonna need more than a good dentist to fix that poor critter.
I think KentuckKen may have a .45 he can use on it.
I think KentuckKen may have a .45 he can use on it.
hydroharry
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- Harry Bursell
Gary S - found this pic in the Service manual. No. 3 in the pic is the clamp that holds the inner cable "wire only". This is most likely NOT where your problem is. To the right you'll see the bar clamp (just the end of it). This is the clamp I was referring to in my suggestions below. It holds (locks) the outer coiled part of the throttle cable and the choke cable in place. The choke cable is generally a little larger in diameter and the clamp has one side a little larger to accept this. If you reversed the little double bump clamp you will lock the choke cable in place but the throttle cable will just slide back and forth. This is the best I can do with the pic. Hopefully this is enough to get you to the correct location to see if your cable is sliding back and forth in the clamp. Easy way to tell - after you have the air cleaner fully removed move the throttle control on the dash back and forth while watching the cable in this clamp. I'll bet the cable is just sliding back and forth.
Let us know and Good Luck!!!
Hydro Harry
Old Cubs Never Die - I just won't let'm
Let us know and Good Luck!!!
Hydro Harry
Old Cubs Never Die - I just won't let'm
hydroharry
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Oops, wrong pic Gary. Here's the one I meant to attach
Rich S - To check the condensor first remove it. Then take a couple of test leads with clips and charge the condensor with the battery. The wire from the condensor goes to the POSITIVE on the battery and case goes to negative. Do NOT touch the wire and case at the same time with your fingers.
Next let it sit for 10 minutes then put a volt meter on it. An analog meter will be the best because there will just be a quick flash of voltage that you'll only see with a needle swing.
If you see the needle swing up then it's good , if not time for a new one. Do that over again a couple of times till you get the hang of it and make sure you see the volt meter at the instant that you hook it up.
Next let it sit for 10 minutes then put a volt meter on it. An analog meter will be the best because there will just be a quick flash of voltage that you'll only see with a needle swing.
If you see the needle swing up then it's good , if not time for a new one. Do that over again a couple of times till you get the hang of it and make sure you see the volt meter at the instant that you hook it up.
hello all! i have a red 682 that has a junk 44c deck on it - even if i fix that deck and put gator blades on it (like the one on my 582 special does) it still doesnt have that much suction.
so, i am wondering what the best deck option would be to put a different deck under my 682? is one of the other cub cadet decks better? or should i go crazy and modify a newer JD or CC mulching deck to fit the 682?
thanks all in advance!
michael
so, i am wondering what the best deck option would be to put a different deck under my 682? is one of the other cub cadet decks better? or should i go crazy and modify a newer JD or CC mulching deck to fit the 682?
thanks all in advance!
michael
