Archive through June 13, 2015

[cmiracle]

OKAY- I got my battery charged up and now she's turning over. Thanks Jeremiah! Everything is checking out but...

No spark while cranking. If I stop and the points are still touching, I get a nice blue spark when I turn the ignition on and off? Could something be funny with my points?

 

[danderson]

The A just means a special oil pan

 

[mgwin]

This has been a very good day.
Finally, after five years of feeling like crap, I have started working on cubs again!
I was diagnosed with severe migraines, severe allergies, and low vitamin D. Also had a sorry mattress which made my back hurt, creating sleep loss. I am starting to get my energy back slowly.
Let the painting begin!!!

Plenty more waiting for paint.

 

[mfrade]

Lookin' great there Marty.. nice to hear you're feelin' better too!

 

[abriar]

Nice paint work Marty. Interesting idea with the mobile paint booth. I need to build a makeshift booth when I start painting my 100. A lot of surfaces in my garage ended up with overspray when I painted my 129.

 

[dtanner]

 

[kmarrow]

Hey guys, I am wanting to change the fluids in transmission and rear end on an original, been looking around, still have not found it? Any help here??

Thanks
Ken

 

[digger]

Ken M.
It's all in the FAQ's.
https://www.ihcubcadet.com/IHCCFAQ/
http://cubfaq.com/questions.html

 

[mconway]

more deck stuff...as i said before, i'm replacing all the hardware and saving the original stuff with the ih headstamp for my kids when i ain't around no more....they might not want it but they're stuck with it. got it all for less than 18 bux from fastenal...this isn't all of it...some stuff is already on the deck...and that includes bags of 50 nuts, lock washers and flat washers...

who's gonna know the difference?....at least there's an h on it...

 

[jchamberlin]

Clark Miracle: Blue spark at the points isn't necessarily good. What I learned studying the "basics" of breaker point ignition is that the condenser (or capacitor) is there, in part, to "eat" the spark. If the gap is not wide enough to break the current flow in the primary, there is no current induced in the secondary, and hence no spark. Remember, the ignition coil is basically a transformer. A transformer only works when the magnetic field is being built or collapsing, that is, it only works on Alternating Current (AC). In a breaker point ignition system, the points "break" the Direct Current (DC) from the battery simulating AC current in direct proportion to engine speed (RPM). Another side effect of a weak condenser on the ignition system is that the constant arcing at the points causes them to "pit" and eventually lose effectiveness.

So, . . . if the points are arcing when they are wide open, it indicates that current may still be passing to ground (DC) instead of being "broken" by the points and converted to AC. In other words, the secondary circuit is not being allowed to operate, or to operate at a high enough "tension" (voltage) to produce a spark at the coil.

You could try two things:

(1) Verify your point gap at it's widest gap: IH says 0.025" Kohler says 0.035" (if I recall recent discussion correctly)

(2) Replace your condenser preferably with a known good part. The condenser (capacitor) for a Kohler is a different value than that for an automobile engine, but in a pinch, an automotive condenser/capacitor will work for testing purposes until the proper part can be sourced.

If you haven't replaced the push rod for the points, you might want to consider it at this time; it helps keep everything "in range" although obviously, the cam lobe is what determines the distance the points will open.

Finally, if the points are new, you might try rubbing them dry with some paste board or other absorbent material. I've heard that new points can have an oily coating which interferes with operation.

Good luck. I'm sure you can figure it out.

Mike: Looks good. Excellent paint job.

 

[jharvey]

Clark
A common ignition switch failure is voltage to the coil in the on position but not in the start position so I would check that first. Second since you already mentioned weak battery symptoms I would verify 12 volts at the coil during cranking the engine. It may be that your battery still is too weak to produce a good spark when the starter is demanding all that current.

 

[mgwin]

Adam B.,

One of my 100's will be next in line.
Here's an outside pic of the paint booth. It's a 6.5' x 12'

 

[digger]

A mobile paint booth!

 

[kmcconaughey]

Marty, looking good! A mobile paint booth, what a great idea! Good to hear you are feeling better!

 

[kmarrow]

Hey guys,,, I really have looked thru the FAQ's and I still am at a loss as to what fluids and in what quantities goes into transmission? There is not a lot of info on an Original does it really use hydraulic Fluid? I somehow doubt it. Any info here would be appreciated.

 

[digger]

Ken M.
I dunno how much more clear this page could be.
http://cubfaq.com/lubricants.html
Take your pick,

(B) Transmission Oil

(1) HyTran Ultra
(2) CC Hydraulic Transmission Fluid
(3) SAE 30 is another option for gear drives.

As far as how much!
1.Take the little plug out of the rear cover.
2.Pour stuff in till it starts to run out.
3.Put little plug back in.

 

[mgwin]

Ken,

Charlie beat me to it. Also, according to the operators manual, they state 3-1/2 quarts of the stuff is the right amount. I do it like Charlie says, so I don't have to measure anything.

 

[rvanmersbergen]

Update on 105 hydro not working, Steve you win the prize! Water logged fluid,and plugged filter.Split hydro from rear end housing, cleaned everything up, reassembled with new gaskets, fluid, and filter, and works great. Thanks for the help!

 

[aaytay]

Ken M-
To expound on what Charlie said, believe the manual, and go with Hytran in the rear of your original. Yes, it's hydraulic fluid, and yes, it is the best thing to put in there. (This is not your father's Buick that needs 90wt gear lube)

Oh, and one more thing. Charlie may have been sniffin too much Hytran lately. As you've found, there's no fill-plug on the rear cover of an Original.

Use this diagram below... #12 is your drain, #10 is your "fill-to-this-level" plug.

 

[kmcconaughey]

Art, you forgot to mention that #11 is the optional filler location: