-
This community needs YOUR help today!
With the ever-increasing fees of maintaining our vibrant community (servers, software, domains, email), we need help.
We need more Supporting Members today.Please invest back into this community to help spread our love and knowledge of all aspects of IH Cub Cadet and other garden tractors.
Why Join?
- Exclusive Access: Gain entry to private forums.
- Special Perks: Enjoy enhanced account features that enrich your experience, including the ability to disable ads.
- Free Gifts: Sign up annually and receive exclusive IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum decals directly to your door!
This is your chance to make a difference. Become a Supporting Member today:
Archive through June 10, 2015
- Thread starter jbaker
- Start date
Help Support IH Cub Cadet Forum:
- Joined
- Aug 23, 2006
- Messages
- 2,912
- displayname
- Allen Schumacher
Was that a business that closed? If he has all those items, there maybe more hidden someplace. Did you have to take out a loan to buy all those Cub parts?
fcurrier
Well-known member
- Joined
- Jul 5, 2004
- Messages
- 3,155
- displayname
- Frank A. Currier(Northern Maine)
Dear Charlie: No problem on the seat bumpers - I still have an extra pair for whatever the next seat needs. I'll admit that the little red thingys were a curiousity until the proper gears clicked. Sure handy to keep oil added to this new 149 fogger!
I was gonna take a pic of the other 11 angle kits and NOS Kohler blocks and cranks he brought, but thought better of it.
Not to mention the other NOS parts and pieces that filled the back of a 3/4 ton pickup, LOL
Allen S.
Nah, There's always a contingency fund for show ups like this guy, LOL
I guess his dad worked for IH, Cub Cadet and Kohler, so I'm making a trip to his house in a couple weeks with the 20 foot trailer.
Not to mention the other NOS parts and pieces that filled the back of a 3/4 ton pickup, LOL
Allen S.
Nah, There's always a contingency fund for show ups like this guy, LOL
I guess his dad worked for IH, Cub Cadet and Kohler, so I'm making a trip to his house in a couple weeks with the 20 foot trailer.
I have a question for the hydro repairmen. Over the winter I done a complete service on a 782 Which included hydro fluid and filter. The case wasn't that gummed up with sludge so I cleaned it anyhow. This spring he started to use it to till his pumpkin patch. The relief valve on the left side started to pump oil out the top. Took it apart cleaned and lube it because it was stuck. ran it around my place for over a hour no problems. He tried to used it today and after 2 hours same thing. Stopped by and it wasn't stuck moved fine cleaned and oiled again. Put it back in and it has some oil seeping out the hole in the top. What am I missing? could it be building to much pressure? Where do I look next? Thanks Jim
IMHO
Guys clean and replace Hytran way to often(I don't care what the manual says!).
How many big IH tractors run the same Hytran for 20 years or more with no issues!!!
More than likely when you did your spring cleaning, something cut loose and is getting stuck where it shouldn't.
Or, you just have a valve getting weak and or has a flat spot on the little steel ball, and it only leaks when it rolls around to that spot.
If it were mine, I'd take it out to the asphalt and hammer that sucker back and forth 2 or 8 times and see if it flung the gunk somewhere else, LOL
That's my 3 cents on the deal.
Guys clean and replace Hytran way to often(I don't care what the manual says!).
How many big IH tractors run the same Hytran for 20 years or more with no issues!!!
More than likely when you did your spring cleaning, something cut loose and is getting stuck where it shouldn't.
Or, you just have a valve getting weak and or has a flat spot on the little steel ball, and it only leaks when it rolls around to that spot.
If it were mine, I'd take it out to the asphalt and hammer that sucker back and forth 2 or 8 times and see if it flung the gunk somewhere else, LOL
That's my 3 cents on the deal.
3 cents!?!? Oh, inflation... I really need to change the Hy-tran in my #2 125, it's over 20 years old!
Where did the time go?
EXACTLY!
Charlie & Kraig
Some glad to see you post about old hytran still in use . I have filtered and reused hytra in every Cub rear end that I have over here and just top up when replacing the filter and after draining it all by removing the rear end cover. The real reason is I`am just to frugal (cheap ) to replace it all every clean up . Now I see It is ok . wow I do feel better about that practice now.
side note ( there is hope for me yet I`am told so expect more of me here) ; sorry Charlie lol.
Some glad to see you post about old hytran still in use . I have filtered and reused hytra in every Cub rear end that I have over here and just top up when replacing the filter and after draining it all by removing the rear end cover. The real reason is I`am just to frugal (cheap ) to replace it all every clean up . Now I see It is ok . wow I do feel better about that practice now.
side note ( there is hope for me yet I`am told so expect more of me here) ; sorry Charlie lol.
mhomrighausen
Well-known member
- Joined
- Sep 20, 2001
- Messages
- 3,133
- displayname
- Marlin Homrighausen
Charlie P. Nice batch of Cub stuff that you were able to acquire.
Frank C. Good rescue and thank you for saving another Cub Cadet.
Jim H. I'm thinking that your valve is getting weak. I agree with Charlie and Kraig on changng the oil. Some of those parts do wear before others and the same type of valve will last for fifty years and never need replacing. When the gentleman is using the tractor for a prolonged period of time there as Charlie stated a piece of gunk that came loose and went into the system. All the gunk should be going to the filter also. If you have a spare valve then try replacing the one that is leaking. Swap the valves and see if the valve does it on the other side of the system. If it does... I'd be looking into another check valve.
Off to work so Fancy has the Cubs all to himself today. Since it's been so hot and humid he's content to leave them locked safely in the garage. Everyone have a safe and wonderful day.
Frank C. Good rescue and thank you for saving another Cub Cadet.
Jim H. I'm thinking that your valve is getting weak. I agree with Charlie and Kraig on changng the oil. Some of those parts do wear before others and the same type of valve will last for fifty years and never need replacing. When the gentleman is using the tractor for a prolonged period of time there as Charlie stated a piece of gunk that came loose and went into the system. All the gunk should be going to the filter also. If you have a spare valve then try replacing the one that is leaking. Swap the valves and see if the valve does it on the other side of the system. If it does... I'd be looking into another check valve.
Off to work so Fancy has the Cubs all to himself today. Since it's been so hot and humid he's content to leave them locked safely in the garage. Everyone have a safe and wonderful day.
mconway
Well-known member
ok....i'm ready to get slammed....as in a previous post on the 42", the ih spacers, IH-473431-R3, mic out at .3815 and were below the spindle housing. so, i needed a fix to get the Spindle/Cup Assembly IH-489389-R1 to fit and not rub on the housing. so i went to mcmaster carr and got some drill bushings, 0.75" (3/4") ID, 1" OD, 1/2" Length (stk #8491A544) to use in my rebuild. as you can see in the pics, i should be set....unless i'm really missing something in this mess. just wanted to get more pics up and i'll read all comments and again....thanx for chiming in with comments, dimensions i was looking for and all the rest. and a real big thank you to charlie and ccs for supplying all the stuff and a few extras.....lemme know what ya think.
the old and the new
IH-473431-R3
mcmas carr #8491A544
as it should be....
the old and the new
IH-473431-R3
mcmas carr #8491A544
as it should be....
mhomrighausen
Well-known member
- Joined
- Sep 20, 2001
- Messages
- 3,133
- displayname
- Marlin Homrighausen
Jim H. Any updates on the hydro problem?
Charlie P. Does your newly acquired stash include any NOS 1650 crankshafts?
Mike C. Nice improvements!
Charlie P. Does your newly acquired stash include any NOS 1650 crankshafts?
Mike C. Nice improvements!
elamott
Well-known member
ENGINE PROBLEMS ON 129
I would like an opinion if someone has one on my problem.
My engine stopped on me a couple of times and after searching I found a small bare wire by the electronic points. It then started fine and ran good for a while then it started to labor (like it had a heavy load). I stopped the tractor and shut off the mower deck but it still was laboring hard. I did get it back into the shed but right before I shut it off I was hearing some clicking. The sound is heaver than a wrist pin but not like a rod.
Would the coil cause an engine to labor? I always thought that if a coil is bad it just stops or doesn't start
I have not had a laboring symptom before, so this is new to me. I am thinking that it must be on the inside because I have checked everything but the coil on the outside.
Any thoughts
Earl
I would like an opinion if someone has one on my problem.
My engine stopped on me a couple of times and after searching I found a small bare wire by the electronic points. It then started fine and ran good for a while then it started to labor (like it had a heavy load). I stopped the tractor and shut off the mower deck but it still was laboring hard. I did get it back into the shed but right before I shut it off I was hearing some clicking. The sound is heaver than a wrist pin but not like a rod.
Would the coil cause an engine to labor? I always thought that if a coil is bad it just stops or doesn't start
I have not had a laboring symptom before, so this is new to me. I am thinking that it must be on the inside because I have checked everything but the coil on the outside.
Any thoughts
Earl
Earl L.
Yes the coil as well as the condenser will actually pull the engine down to the point of a full stall.
I'd go for the coil first and check all the grounding spots.
One of the first things I learned about Cubs, Clean grounding spots, add dielectric grease on EVERYTHING.
Yes the coil as well as the condenser will actually pull the engine down to the point of a full stall.
I'd go for the coil first and check all the grounding spots.
One of the first things I learned about Cubs, Clean grounding spots, add dielectric grease on EVERYTHING.
Earl...My experience with the coil on my 122 was it was running fine then quit. I found they either work or they don't. I would check the spark plug, possibly going bad.If it's a Champion, throw it away(MHO).I run NGK B6L stock #3212.Good luck.
