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Archive through June 10, 2015

IH Cub Cadet Forum

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I have one semi-funny thing to say... $370.00! OUCH

So much for my Father's Day gift to myself...

To be fair, I was warned. Darn that supply and demand stuff.
 
Re Earl's 129: By coincidence, this 149 that I'm reclaiming will run and mow for about 10 minutes then it starts to lug down, spark knock, and limp back to the CubHouse. I was thinking valves, but tomorrow I'll swap out the coil and see what happens.
happy.gif
 
ENGINE PROBLEMS ON 129
Thanks for the comments on problem. I have not had many coil problems and did not realize that the coil will cause an engine to act like that. I have the electronic points so I don't have any condenser. I am going to try the coil tomorrow. There is no number on the coil that I have. I think that NAPA will be able to find the right one but just in case does anyone know what is the replacement number?
Thanks again. I will let you know
Earl
 
Earl: Maybe we should try this first:

297363.jpg


Test before starting and then again when things start to go south?
happy.gif
 
297371.jpg


Can anyone specifically identify what model cub this engine was taken out of? I currently have this in a 2072 and I need to figure out which Front PTO Clutch is needed? It's a 1 1/8 shaft. Anyone have ideas where the best place to find a PTO Clutch reasonably?

Thank you.
 
ELECTRICAL WOES

Okay, I have all new components in my 71, including a new wiring harness. I'm sure I have everything hooked up correctly, but when I turn the key all I get is a click, from the solenoid. Is there a short? Where should I check?
 
Clark: I would make sure of two things:

1. Check for continuity (or zero volts) between the starter case and the negative terminal of the battery, in other words, make sure the starter is well grounded.

2. Check to be sure that the solenoid is passing the high current on the load contacts. That is, if the solenoid is clicking, it means that the safety switch, key, and solenoid coil are all working; what you need to make sure of is that the battery power on the big post is being passed from the terminal with three wires on it to the terminal with one big red wire on it.

Bottom line: If you have 12 volts coming into and out of the solenoid with the key in the start position, you should have 12 volts at the "A" terminal of the starter/generator and the sucker should be turning over. Again, if you have 12 volts at the starter and it IS NOT turning over, then either the engine is locked up or there is a problem with the starter. (If the engine is locked up, a voltage drop at the battery [or heat at the starter] would indicate excessive current draw.)

The schematic for reference:
297378.jpg


Edit: Also make sure the battery is well grounded; your ground could be able to support the low current demands of the solenoid coil, but balk at passing the high current demanded by the starter.
 
ok...here we go....more 42" spindle pics but i'm closing in on gettin' it done....'bout friggin' time don't ya think?

all new seals...
297385.jpg


297386.jpg


plenty of clearance for the spindle cup....
297387.jpg


painted and lookin good...
297388.jpg


297389.jpg
 
ENGINE PROBLEMS ON 129
I am in the process of ordering a coil from NAPA.
I assume that a k301 and a k301A is the same for ordering a coil. NAPA does not show a k301A
Earl
 

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