Archive through June 09, 2010

[mgonitzke]

Wes-

82 series on up are also that universal Indak key. The diesels have their own key that's probably shared by a bunch of Kubota stuff.

 

[bjrainey]

Well,
Had one of those days that makes me appreciate my wide frames.
I was out last week running around the place on the 126 and it felt like the clutch was slipping, going up an incline in 2nd or 3rd gear, it wouldn't pull itself. So I went to my local CC dealer and bought new clutch plate, springs and a new teaser spring.
Spent this morning replacing all that stuff, along with refacing the clutch plates, and the reassembly. took her out for a spin, and the same thing happened... wouldn't pull itself up an incline in 2nd or 3rd.

I crawled up under the tractor. Because the narrow frames don't have a handy tunnel cover to remove so you can work on the thing from the top.
After some frustrating hours at trying to get at the spirol pin in the rear coupler, I finally managed to get the one through the driveshaft out. The one through the stub shaft was broken and just allowing the coupler to spin.
My question is this:
Is there any way to get that coupler off the driveshaft without having to move the engine forward and taking the clutch and driveshaft completely out?
If you know of a better\easier way, please let me know.
I'm going in for round 2 in the morning.
Thanks in advance.
Brad

 

[lbuttke]

Brad,

only other way I know of is to remove the 6 bolts holding the rearend in place and slide it back.
This elimanates the need to remove the motor and clutch asembly.

 

[hydroharry]

Bob G - I may have missed one of your posts. I asked about the oil pan you had in the kitchen since it looked like a JD version Kohler base. I'm not familiar with the 7 and 8hp engines so I wondered if that's the style they used (if so, Charlie may need to add a foot note to the FAQ.)

Now - fast forward to the dip stick - I'm hoping others will give you the dip stick info, but if you have a non-CC pan the oil capacity will be different.

Calvin - if you got brackets and mounting hardware you may have about everything for that back blade. If you can get a look at the CPE-2 parts page there are only 13 parts to the entire unit and one of those is the lower bracket from the rear lift where the draw bar is - plus a product graphic IH decal. Nice find, there aren't many around and I understand they work great.

KenTUCK - when's the class start of fiberglass'n

Brad R - don't know of an easier way to get that coupler off - but do know the Cub shops have chain hoists and tilt the units 90degrees upright so they don't have to crawl under'm, but I think you might still need to move the engine forward/remove it before that.

Hydro Harry
Old Cubs Never Die - unless you purposely run'em out of gas.

 

[dfrisk]

BRUCE - No wonder the key broke.

Even with the key/switch recessed in the dash on the 72 I somehow managed to bend my key to a 45 deg. angle a year or two ago. I'm surprised it survived being straightened.

WES - My lack of experience with Q/L's was showing. And I think I've removed the key from the 982 ONCE. Time SON & I took the 72 & 982 to Steve B's "MUD-Bowl" PD, think it was in fall of 2003. I never like to leave them in the switch when towing/hauling. I'm always afraid they'd be "MIA" at the end of the trip.

BOB P. - Since you haven't gotten any answers yet I'll check my K181 on my vac unit. It's a stock CC spec engine that was in my 72 when I bought it.

 

[jmacdonald]

Bob Proctor here is a picture of my K181.
It's 11 1/2 inches to the bottom edge of the outside cover. I don't know the history of the engine as I bought it about two weeks ago.
Hope that helps.

 

[dgallagher]

Could someone please post a wiring diagram for a Model 72. There was one posted some time ago, but I cannot locate it. Thanks in advance

 

[pbell]

Bob P,
That spec number K181 uses a bayonet type dipstick that has a 11-5/8" blade, and the P/N is/was A-231725. That number may have changed over the years, and it may not be the number on the stick. According to the Kohler parts manual, the blade length is measured from the top of the cap above the rubber grommet to the low oil mark at the bottom of the blade. The oil fill tube should be 4-9/16" long, P/N 231726, and is measured from the top to the bottom of the largest diameter of the tube. The smaller diameter(s) of the tube may be pressed into the block and the larger diameter may be all you see.

If your oil pan has a bottom drain, it looks correct.

 

[jmacdonald]

Dave I just found a nice looking one using the search. Search for 72 wiring diagram and use the "AND" function on the search page and it will be for the date August 03, 2005